![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
Lash tool
Any yeas or nays on the Kirk Lash tool, kinda pricey unit.
Thanks
__________________
82 SC Twin Plug 3.2 SS ,46 PMO ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I was going to buy one before I'd ever done an adjustment and my dad made fun of me, saying it was a waste of money. Now that I've done it a few times with shim stock, I don't see a reason for the Kirk tool either.
__________________
-Tony Instagram: @Pablo_the_Porsche | @RuchlosRallye AchtungKraft #002 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
No personal experience with this tool but here is an extensive thread on the subject.
Valve adjustment with Kirk valve tool
__________________
Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
||
![]() |
|
Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 6,087
|
We also just put together a video on the kirk tool. Please let us know if you have any questions.
|
||
![]() |
|
Formerly known as Syzygy
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 4,420
|
Quote:
Admittedly, I was concerned the first time I did one and even asked myself what I had gotten into after pulling all the valve covers off and had zero luck adjusting cylinder 1 an 2. It took almost all of a Saturday to complete it in addition to changing plugs, cap, rotor and fuel filter as well. The second time took about four hours from start to finish. And much less swearing. These were all using the small feeler gauge and holder. But making it easier in yourself is cool, too. I understand why.
__________________
Kevin 1987 ROW coupe, Marine blue, with a couple extra goodies. The cars we love the best are the ones with human traits, warts and all. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,274
|
The Kirk tool worked well for me. First time I ever did a valve adjustment.
So I over killed the job wanting to get it right. I bought the shim stock for the back- side method and a feeler gauge. Tried like hell with the feeler gauge. I tip my hat to those who can do it that way. So I checked each valve via back- side method before and after using the Kirk tool. (Over kill for sure, of course along the way with much uncertainty because this was all new to me) The car runs like a top. I was surprised at how much a couple of the valves seemed out of adjustment. However, the car seemed to run good before the adjustment. I have owned it about 6yrs. now. It was and is a garage queen. 50K on the odometer when I bought it, 60K now. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered User
|
I like the Kirk tool. I've done multiple feeler gage valve adjustments, some time ago on a 356C, and once on my '84 911 Carrera. Just did it with the Kirk tool and checked it with the .004" feeler gage tool sold here. Also I purchased a set of 32 feeler gages for some additional checking. I believe there is a difference between using an .004" feeler gage and the Kirk tool. The feeler is discrete, you set .004 and you might end up a bit more than .004" most of the time. The Kirk tool is continuous, you might end up below .004 or you might end up above .004. So sometimes it checks against .004" and sometimes it is no go on .004", but passes a .003" loosely, or combo .0035" of .002 and .0015".
Kind of interesting to me from a physical-mathematical point of view. Also the Kirk tool hopefully will not wear and loose thread accuracy. Although the video shows the Kirk tool 'standing' in position on its own, my experience is that if you don't hand support it, it will fall. Last edited by Trailbraker; 10-26-2018 at 03:15 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
One of the best tools I own. Problem w using a feeler gauge is limited space. They're fine for my VW, but lack of space is a real problem on the Porsche which can lead to inaccurate adjustments. With the Kirk tool, you're working at the front of the adjustment nut so you can be a lot more confident of a job properly done. I've done it both ways with different types of feeler gauges, even those bent at a 90 degree angle to get in there, but they are a poor second compared to the Kirk tool IMO.
__________________
'88 Carrera Guards Red '70 VW Beetle Yukon Yellow ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I like using a special tool I built with a fixed 36 degree set of indicators. Looks like a fancy screwdriver and uses the same principle as the Kirk, but is much easier to use......and not so expensive!!
__________________
RGruppe #79 '73 Carrera RS spec 2.7 MFI 00 Saab 95 Aero wagon stick 01 Saab 95 Aero wagon auto 03 Boxster 90 Chevy PU Prerunner....1990 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Mac, when I first got my SC a few years back, I too thought I wanted a Kirk tool, very nice looking bit of gear. But I'm cheap, so I read other posts and likely copied Mr. Lague's version. Cost maybe $6. Works great, very easy to use accurately. But I also found that with practice, using the little curly-Q feeler gauge becomes quite easy and is now how I get the job done.
To make this tool, even if you don't have a protractor at home, you can print one off the interweb. Obviously, check it again after you've welded or epoxied it to the collar for the screwdriver....I used a collar because it's handy to be able to rotate the fixture according to which valve you're adjusting. I hope this helps. John/CT ![]() ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Quote:
I use that and a special 19mm long ratchet wrench to move the crank.
__________________
RGruppe #79 '73 Carrera RS spec 2.7 MFI 00 Saab 95 Aero wagon stick 01 Saab 95 Aero wagon auto 03 Boxster 90 Chevy PU Prerunner....1990 |
||
![]() |
|
Member 911 Anonymous
|
I have the Kirk Tool, it works well but I verify with Feeler in any case.
__________________
'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
For me, i do not use any feeler or special tools.Just a hand feel , been doing it like this since the 1980`s....
Ivan
__________________
1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
||
![]() |
|
Member 911 Anonymous
|
^^^ Amazing :-)
__________________
'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Before buying the Kirk tool, I bought a similar screwdriver/pointer setup made by someone on this site. Problem is there's no adjustment gauge to follow as there is on the Kirk tool. With the screw-driver gimmick, you have to form a mental picture of where the left pointer is when the adjustment is at zero clearance, then turn it to the left to have the other pointer assume the position of the first pointer. You have to be able to mentally mark a spot in thin air as to where the left pointer is, then hope you can meet up with it using the right pointer as the adjustment screw is moved and the jam nut is tightened.... good luck. If you can get it to the right spot in the first place, tightening the jam nut is very likely to throw it's position off.
![]() The Kirk tool uses the same principal of measuring the turn of the adjustment screw, but integrates a gauge to make sure you're right on. The gauge is crucial to a good measurement & to make sure you haven't messed things up when the jam nut is tightened. Too expensive? What the heck... the cost is the same as an oil & filter change. To the original poster: just buy the thing and save yourself a lot of grief.
__________________
'88 Carrera Guards Red '70 VW Beetle Yukon Yellow ![]() |
||
![]() |
|