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Neutralizing rust on paint
There is a 911 currently listed for sale on the pelican boards by Porsport. They have neutralized the rust by some process, thus doing away with the rust and leaving bare metal. Does anyone know what they might have used to accomplish this. I emailed them, but they won't respond. Thanks for any advice!!!
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Sounds like a scammer
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Ospho or a soulution of phosphoric acid was most likely used. FWIW most any acid will remove rust.
Older 911s, built before '75, will rust from the inside. You should post a picture so those who have de-rusted 911s can give you their opinion.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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Neutralize rust my arss. BS.
Cut rust. Weld new metal. Everyone knows it. |
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I've neutralized surface rust with a product called Evaporust by applying it onto paper shop towels and laying them over the affected area. Seems to do a good job. If it's more than surface, it needs to be cut and welded.
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Marv Evans '69 911E |
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Geezzz, some of the opinions on this board should be printed not on a screen, but on toilet paper for easier disposal. You don’t take an unmolested 69 911 with light rust and go cutting on it. Thanks to all with treatment remedies.
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Eastwood co has a no. of products made to arrest rust/oxidation- they might have an idea ,to answer your question.
But,I think the "cut it out crowd "may be spot on when it comes to a 69 T and "light rust" depending on its current state of repair. Light rust will, in time become not so light rust ,which then it could be called "Patina ". Different strokes for different folks.
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This stuff works like an acid but also prevents the subsequent flash rust of a raw acid. (Evaporust)
For stubborn rust, I like to rub it away with a scotch brite pad or steel wool. https://amzn.to/2TMkwFr
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What about Corrosion-X?
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Rust can only spread with further surface exposure. If the surface is treated properly, the rust will not be anything more than a light surface corrosion, similar to aluminum oxidation. The treatment chemicals will react with the surface rust and seal the metal from further oxidation.
There is no need to cut, as long as the metal is solid. I have been using this method on rusted metal for over a decade, and if the surface is protected after treatment, no rust returns. |
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Banned but not out, yet..
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For light surface rust, Rust Mort which is an acid, works great.
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I'm just passing onto you what hey said at car painting class.
If it's not rusted all the way through; sand blast the rust particles away. Clean immediately with phosphoric acid, then wash off with water. The phosphoric acid leaves a small residue which further prevents rust. Use compressed air to blow any remaining water away. Wipe down with prepsole or another degreaser. As soon as possible spray a 2K epoxy primer over it. Sand down the primer. Spray base coat. Spray clear coat. In a day or two cut and polish the clear coat. |
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Thanks all for your help and suggestions.
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You don't sand most epoxy primers. The only time you would sand an epoxy primer would be if the flash time has come and gone then you would lightly sand for mechanical bond rather than chemical. Bare metal shoot epoxy or etching primer Then a high build 2k primer (sand able) Then a sealer (optional) Basecoat Clear if not using single stage. |
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As mentioned the phosphoric acid leaves a residue that further prevents rust - so a good idea. We 800 grit sanded the 2 or 3 coats of epoxy primer to get a smooth surface. And yeah yeah yeah, no clear if using single stage but isn't that so obvious that you don't need to make a point of it. |
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