well, succes!

microsquirt is in place and wired in. will write up more about this later.

first crank without fuel pump, tacho signal comes on nicely.

first crank with fuel pump, and we have a running engine! albeit a badly running engine, but it's running!

now timing check and then hopefully we can get a decent idle to start tuning with the WB, to get somewhere in the ballpark.

my GSF pulley is not marked for the 120 and 240 degrees. I thought GSF redesigned their pulleys? yours looks like mine

i'm doing a vlave check with the pelicanparts rotation tool whenever customs decides that my package can be released :) will check the GSF wheel then again, but there's definately 3 marks on there. (one of them is Z1)

the timing advance is spot on: 10° without SAW connected, and nice table values with SAW connected. In tunerstudio, the trigger angle is set to 0°. (the EDIS setting already takes into account the 10° advance)

temperatures are good, MAP signal needs a little calibration i think, i'm reading 70kpa at idle. should be 40 or 50 i think.

i think i am running on 4 cylinders. It was misfiring before the microsquirt swap. A little recent history:

- noticed misfires at peak torque last couple of months + oil leak at cylinder base
- apparently i had loose cylinderheadbolts after engine rebuild 1,5yrs ago. Retorqued them to spec. Set the valves at the same time. (my 4th or 5th valve lash job)
- car started perfectly on 6 cyls, but the moment i ask for a bit of torque, i loose 2 cylinders and they don't come back. Engine cold one day later, start on 6 cyls, after 5 minutes i loose 2 cyls and they don't come back.
- redid valve lash another 2 times...spent hours rechecking and rechecking, and kept having non-firing cylinders.
- measured spark plug wires, all ok. 2 times new spark plugs.
- still the same.
- removed the distributor for a checkup because timing was not steady and too advanced, and noticed that the base bracket broke off. Also vacuum module stuck in full advance and not able to repair. i thought that would be the cause for sure, so away with CDI, distributor, cap and rotor, and do a full electronic ignition swap with EDIS and microsquirt. (car already ran on bitz fueling for 2 years)
- installed microsquirt and EDIS, and have succes on first start, but still on 4 cylinders.
- now waiting on pelican parts valve tool to recheck valves for the 4th time. Other than bad valve lash, i have no idea what it could be.

EDIS coilpack connections:

plug wires are connected onto the EDIS coilpack:
A B C 1 2 3
A B C 4 5 6
and it fires ACB ACB

should be good. 1 - 6 - 2 - 4 - 3 - 5



wires from EDIS controller are in normal order. controller 10 - 11 - 12 --) 1 - 2 - 3 coilpack

spark plugs are again replaced with brand new BPR7ES (resistor variant), gapped to 1mm

I would perform compression and leakdown test just to make sure your engine is healthy.

compression done, all perfect. haven't done leakdown yet.

I can’t think that you would have valve lash off since you seem to be well versed in doing it.

Have you checked injectors? Maybe a couple are bad?

I've done it multiple times before yes, never an issue...but now i am not confident anymore.

injectors are 2yrs old, maybe 10.000 miles, but i can easily check them, might be a good idea.

i used this picture as reference to find VR sensor polarity. That info was not available in the MS manuals.

https://trigger-wheels.com/store/con...ated-large.png

well, it might just be a very easy fix,

i found an issue with the coilpack electrical connector. One of the pins keeps sliding back in the connector, and probably not making any contact...hence losing 2 cylinders. This connector came like this, new.

ordered new one, fingers crossed!

first drive round the block is done. cool :)

i think the timing is not yet good, even though i programmed a complete stock SC timing map, i think my adjustable timing light gives me the wrong information because of the wasted spark...i'm seeing 25° in MS, and more than 40° on the timing light...tried nr. 1 and nr. 4, both similar strange readings from the pistol...i played with the trigger angle, and 2 or 3 degrees change gives me way more change at the timing light...hmmm

tried with fixed spark advance, set it on 10°, trigger angle 0°.

- fixed spark 10° - trigger angle 0° --) timing light 20°
- fixed spark 10° - trigger angle 4° --) timing light 6°
- fixed spark 10° - trigger angle 3° --) timing light 7°
- fixed spark 10° - trigger angle 1° --) timing light 12°

i don't get it. probably timing light not to be trusted.

i'm thinking the timing light doubles the timing above a certain rpm...

gonna try 0° fixed, and 0° on the timing light dial.

OK, made 3 marks on the pulley, 10-20-30° advance.

checked timing with timing light dial at 0°, looks OK. timing is good.

i'm driving now (gingerly), so that's something. starts good. sounds really smooth around 3000, revs great without load. but while driving anything below 3000 feels thump thump, feels like weak spark or something...timing is stock(ish) SC. very little power. AFR's are around 13-14, no accel enrich yet.

Can you post up a picture of your timing table. You may be able to run more advance at lower RPM's than what has been set in.

here you go, sorry for the size :)

haven't driven with this table yet, i copied the values from my CDI+ settings, with which the car ran great before. Of course need to add cruising timing later...

the table i drove with this afternoon had a couple of degrees timing coming in earlier. maybe too much timing too soon, is possible.

https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...66&oe=5CD63EAC

FYI, engine is fully rebuilt, completely stock, 3.0L SC, US car, 1981, single plug, only SSI's, but that doesn't make a big difference.

just went for little drive, same thing. poor throttle reaction, low power from idle to 3000...free revving sounds better.

That is exactly what I would expect with that timing table.

You mention that this is a Bitz system. Do you have the original Bitz timing table? Have you tried running with that table?

If you do a search on here you will find plenty of information on timing tables but yours as set up now will give you the exact experience you are seeing now.

One thing that you may have forgotten when copying the cdi is the effect of the vacuum advance.

Also your fuel table need to be adjusted to suit. In the chart below your table you will notice that you are going pig rich at times and have a lot of fluctuation in your afr which will give you that bucking that you are experiencing.

Again do you have the original Bitz fuel map? Have you tried using that along with the original Bitz Timing map?