Engine Drop/Stand Question
 

I'm about to do my first engine drop and unclear on what I need for a stand.

I'm planning to buy the (five arm) engine stand yoke but do I need the engine stand base? Or do the commonly found rolling engine stands already have a place to "plug in" the shaft of the yoke?

Alternately, I have a heavy workbench that I could mount the engine stand base to. Doesn't seem as convenient as the rolling stand. Thoughts?

I'd appreciate any recommendations on yoke/stand setups.

Thanks,

Robert

the hard part is getting it from the dolly up to the stand.

The common rolling engine stands will fit the 5 arm yoke. Because of the wide weight distribution of a flat six, I think the two leg engine stands are more stable. I ordered mine from Costco. Nice stand and can be broken down and stored fairly easily. There is a bench mount for the yoke. Obviously your bench has to withstand 400lbs or more.

Juanbenae, thanks, I bought an ATV jack to lower the engine; not sure if it will be high enough to get the engine onto a stand. I have a chain fall and a strong beam in the garage, as well.

75 911s, Thanks, that's what I needn't to know. My bench is substantial, but I'd prefer using a stand. I've had good luck with Sears, but never shopped at COSTCO,

Robert

Harbour freight stand works fine, make sure you get the heavier one for motor, or buy one off craigslist.

Things you need........
 

You will need the rolling base, the 5 arm yoke and having a hydraulic engine hoist will make things a lot easier! In the long run, you will find lots of uses for the hoist!

I use a Sears ATV jack with a 2'x2' piece of 3/4" plywood to go under the engine for lowering and lifting. Works great and is much more steady than a floor jack. You will find that having a floor jack will be helpful when reinstalling the engine to help get the right angle on the engine/transaxle unit.

Also, when removing or installing an engine, I raise the car up just enough to get underneath to loosen or remove everything. Then, once the engine is on the ATV jack, I I raise the car enough to roll the engine out and then lower the car back down to a more solid level (safety first!). Going back in is just the reverse, raise car up high, roll under the engine/tranny, lower the car to a safe working height and then install the engine. Good luck!

Ask you local PCA folks. For sure someone will lend you the proper stand. Getting the engine onto the stand will require some strong backs or a comealong to the beam you mentioned.

Have fun!

Chris

+ 1 on the Harbor Freight stand. Inexpensive and worked very well for me. You can rotate the engine for access to all sorts of things and it is very stable. It also breaks down nicely when you are done with this project.
Where are you? Perhaps you could borrow one from one of us and save the expense of buying a tool that you will likely only use once or twice.

I used a chain hoist to raise the engine from the AV jack to the engine stand.
I also added 4x6 board to cross over 5 of the garage joists to even out the weight of the engine.

Thank-you gentlemen! My project is underway!

DP and Mike: I think you mean the Harbor Freight stand like the one in the photo below? I may be able to borrow one, but they’re not tremendously expensive. I think the five arm yoke is expensive, for what it is. Haven’t seen one for less than $300.

CM, I’m not a PCA member but I have a friend who is. The back’s not as strong as it used to be. That’s why I own a ‘come-along! :-)

Fred, Thanks for your excellent advice on raising and lowering. I will follow it! I think it was one of your prior posts that encouraged me to get the Sears ATV stand. It seems to be good quality. I’ve been well served by Sear’s Craftsman products. I wonder if they have a good engine stand.

I also appreciate your recommendation on an engine hoist. I think you mean something like the picture below, yes? I take it the ATV jack doesn’t work for getting the engine onto the stand? Do you think the hoist is easier than using my come-along attached to a strong beam?

At my old shop, I had an industrial engine hoist that we used for a lot of things. Somehow it rolled away, all on it’s own! Funny how that can happen.

Robert

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546959345.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546959345.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546959345.jpg

TargaMe, thanks! I have a heavy laminated beam in my shop that's supported by steel posts. It's pretty strong!

Robert

Nice to have the right tools and equipment.......
 

Robert,

Invest on these necessary tools and equipment for your engine rebuild. If you own these equipment, you have the pleasure and luxury of doing the project at your own pace. Specially if you are doing an engine rebuild for the first time.

The HF engine stand is sufficient to handle a 911. Get the engine stand similar to the one you posted with an open access to the bottom front. I have 3 HF and 1 Manley engine stands and 4 yokes. The Manley engine stand is remarkable and robust but costs as much as the 3 HF stands combine. A portable engine hoist is great to have for moving the 911 engine on or off the engine stand. I also need an engine hoist to install the motor in my engine test stand for the start up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546960406.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546960406.jpg

This is my 25-old and reliable engine test stand made from scrap metals including a traffic sign post as the main frame.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546960709.jpg

This is when you need a portable engine hoist to get the assembled motor in an engine test stand for the start up. The Manley engine stand was eventually used but the HF engine stand was fine for this application.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546960709.jpg

Be aware that the Porsche yoke is slightly larger in diameter than some "American" engine mounts. I've seen more than one stand that did not take it, it was maybe 1mm too big in diameter. Some time with a drill and grinding disk will fix that, but it's worth doing some careful measurements first. I have a Powerbuilt 647514 which does work fine.

Mike, Duly noted. Thanks very much!

Boyt, Great advice and wonderful pictures! I’ll make sure to get the wheeled stand that’s open in the front. An engine hoist shouldn’t set me back too much.

Is the aftermarket 5 arm yoke o.k.? Or do I need to spring for OEM?

Where are the best pick points on the engine when hoisting/inserting into the stand?

I have used both a engine cherry picker, and a 4 post lift to hoist the 911 engine and yoke on to the stand. The places to attach the chain are, 1) around the mounted yoke, and 2) one of the mounting bolts on the engine carrier. Use some towels where the chain rubs on anything you don't want damage.

Don't use a come along to lift your engine. Use a block and tackle.

One ton manual chain hoist at the freight is $60.

With open rafters, it's a good choice.

Span several rafters with a fatty as noted. A 4x4 would work as well.

We used the adapter ring (half ring) and HF engine stand - some added pipe, bolts and nuts - worked fine for a 964 disassembly - a lot less expensive than the yoke you are thinking of buying - ring from Pelican "Engine Stand Adapter Ring for Porsche and VW air-cooled engines" - enjoy your project . . .


Regards,


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546988701.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546988825.jpg

With the flywheel off, the adapter ring worked fine for me. I think the ring was under $100 and I found a used engine stand like the HF one pictured for $40 on craigslist