Where to source these clamps?
 

Hi,

Where could I purchase these clamps to fix this?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e8b9f0548c.jpg


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They come with the new boots

They are called Oetikrr clamps. A new boot comes with them.

EMPI sells a good kit

Do you need spiffy/special pliers to make them tighten?

They do make special pliers but you can use a pair of dykes or side jaw pincher pliers.

You can also use black colored cable/zip ties. They don't give the rubber as much grief as you don't tighten them as much, and last as long as the rubber boots.

+1 on the zip ties

Those aren’t true Oetiker clamps, should be able to tighten them with simple hand tools. Or zip ties.

Oetiker clamps do require special tools
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Belmetric for the clamps. I didn't realize that if you use a zip-tie it has to be a black one. So no pink, chartreuse, or other contrasting color zip-ties on Porsches -- got it! ;-)

Robert

Thanks for your feedback.

I just realized that both boots on the driver and passenger side are broken. Thirty wears later it’s time to install new ones.

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They said really mean things to me when I asked for pink. then they explained to me that black ones are UV proofed. I tried to explain to them that there are no UVs under the car (unless you roll it then you are f'ed anyway), but you know what it's like trying to argue with morons.

There is something to be said for just buying two new driveshafts.

That's four new CV joints with new boots already installed.

Spring for new bolts/ancillary hardware if applicable.

Put it to bed, long time.

Check torque on bolts after 1k miles.

Bob is right.

I spent months trying to trace a vibration in the rear of my 87 at speeds above 80mph. Used 3 different wheel balancing machines (naturally each one said something different, and you never know when they had them calibrated). Spun the rims a few times and checked rim run out. Pondered new times. The problem was like an Albatros. This 911 had has about 120k on the odometer.

A friend suggested new CV's on axles. Tossed in a new set and the vibration went away.

Something to think about before you spend time taking off axles, removing old boots, cleaning joints, packing in grease, putting on new boots and putting it back together.

+1 for the thoughts above. All that’s saved in doing a complete driveshaft swap is the drive shaft. Plus going with a complete unit saves the hassle of wrestling the circlip off which secured the CV to the driveshaft. When your done totaling up the component parts, you really aren’t that far ahead.

Agree with Bob. You can throw the old ones in a box and rebuild them later when you are bored.

Also if they have been like that for a while, that old grease gets flung e v e r y w h e r e and is a lot of fun to clean.

Where to source these clamps?
 

Does anybody know what size this wheel axle nut is?

I watched a YouTube video where they guy claimed a 30mm would do it, but the reality is that it didn’t work.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3d9f8f33b9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3282cb77df.jpg


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74-83, 87-89: M20 Castellated nut @ 217-231 ft-lb

84-85: M22 x 1.5, Self-locking nut @ 339 ft-lb

Yours lookalike the M22 version: https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&make=POR&Last Visited_input=&page_number=1&description=rear%2520 axle%2520nut

Actually 32 mm.

Having a really hard time breaking it loose...


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32mm is the socket size for a M20 nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1553976563.jpg