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Banned
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 122
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Where to source these clamps?
Hi,
Where could I purchase these clamps to fix this? ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Around Boston
Posts: 2,026
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They come with the new boots
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That Guy
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They are called Oetikrr clamps. A new boot comes with them.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Registered
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EMPI sells a good kit
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1980 911 - Metzger 3.6L 2016 Cayman S |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Do you need spiffy/special pliers to make them tighten?
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1981 911SC Targa |
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That Guy
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They do make special pliers but you can use a pair of dykes or side jaw pincher pliers.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
Posts: 22,741
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You can also use black colored cable/zip ties. They don't give the rubber as much grief as you don't tighten them as much, and last as long as the rubber boots.
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Registered
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+1 on the zip ties
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wheaton, IL (Chicago 'burbs)
Posts: 3,141
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Those aren’t true Oetiker clamps, should be able to tighten them with simple hand tools. Or zip ties.
Oetiker clamps do require special tools ![]()
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Ed '86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!) '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one) '97 BMW 528i (the sensible car, bought new) '12 Vintage/Millenium 23' v-nose enclosed trailer |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 850
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Belmetric for the clamps. I didn't realize that if you use a zip-tie it has to be a black one. So no pink, chartreuse, or other contrasting color zip-ties on Porsches -- got it! ;-)
Robert |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 122
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Thanks for your feedback.
I just realized that both boots on the driver and passenger side are broken. Thirty wears later it’s time to install new ones. ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
Posts: 22,741
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Quote:
They said really mean things to me when I asked for pink. then they explained to me that black ones are UV proofed. I tried to explain to them that there are no UVs under the car (unless you roll it then you are f'ed anyway), but you know what it's like trying to argue with morons. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
That's four new CV joints with new boots already installed. Spring for new bolts/ancillary hardware if applicable. Put it to bed, long time. Check torque on bolts after 1k miles.
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 03-24-2019 at 05:26 PM.. |
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Registered
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Bob is right.
I spent months trying to trace a vibration in the rear of my 87 at speeds above 80mph. Used 3 different wheel balancing machines (naturally each one said something different, and you never know when they had them calibrated). Spun the rims a few times and checked rim run out. Pondered new times. The problem was like an Albatros. This 911 had has about 120k on the odometer. A friend suggested new CV's on axles. Tossed in a new set and the vibration went away. Something to think about before you spend time taking off axles, removing old boots, cleaning joints, packing in grease, putting on new boots and putting it back together.
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Kuehl 1987 911 cab, modified https://griffiths.com/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,115
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+1 for the thoughts above. All that’s saved in doing a complete driveshaft swap is the drive shaft. Plus going with a complete unit saves the hassle of wrestling the circlip off which secured the CV to the driveshaft. When your done totaling up the component parts, you really aren’t that far ahead.
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Perpetual Reassembler
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Agree with Bob. You can throw the old ones in a box and rebuild them later when you are bored.
Also if they have been like that for a while, that old grease gets flung e v e r y w h e r e and is a lot of fun to clean.
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Jose - 1983 911SC Coupe Instagram: @joe_engineer 911 D I Y Blog: joe-engineer d o t c o m D I Y Vids: https://www.youtube.com/joeengineer |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 122
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Where to source these clamps?
Does anybody know what size this wheel axle nut is?
I watched a YouTube video where they guy claimed a 30mm would do it, but the reality is that it didn’t work. ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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74-83, 87-89: M20 Castellated nut @ 217-231 ft-lb
84-85: M22 x 1.5, Self-locking nut @ 339 ft-lb Yours lookalike the M22 version: https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&make=POR&LastVisited_input=&page_number=1&description=rear%2520axle%2520nut
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 122
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Actually 32 mm.
Having a really hard time breaking it loose... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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