Where to source these clamps?
 

Hi,

Where could I purchase these clamps to fix this?

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They come with the new boots

They are called Oetikrr clamps. A new boot comes with them.

EMPI sells a good kit

Do you need spiffy/special pliers to make them tighten?

They do make special pliers but you can use a pair of dykes or side jaw pincher pliers.

You can also use black colored cable/zip ties. They don't give the rubber as much grief as you don't tighten them as much, and last as long as the rubber boots.

+1 on the zip ties

Those aren’t true Oetiker clamps, should be able to tighten them with simple hand tools. Or zip ties.

Oetiker clamps do require special tools
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Belmetric for the clamps. I didn't realize that if you use a zip-tie it has to be a black one. So no pink, chartreuse, or other contrasting color zip-ties on Porsches -- got it! ;-)

Robert

Thanks for your feedback.

I just realized that both boots on the driver and passenger side are broken. Thirty wears later it’s time to install new ones.

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They said really mean things to me when I asked for pink. then they explained to me that black ones are UV proofed. I tried to explain to them that there are no UVs under the car (unless you roll it then you are f'ed anyway), but you know what it's like trying to argue with morons.

There is something to be said for just buying two new driveshafts.

That's four new CV joints with new boots already installed.

Spring for new bolts/ancillary hardware if applicable.

Put it to bed, long time.

Check torque on bolts after 1k miles.

Bob is right.

I spent months trying to trace a vibration in the rear of my 87 at speeds above 80mph. Used 3 different wheel balancing machines (naturally each one said something different, and you never know when they had them calibrated). Spun the rims a few times and checked rim run out. Pondered new times. The problem was like an Albatros. This 911 had has about 120k on the odometer.

A friend suggested new CV's on axles. Tossed in a new set and the vibration went away.

Something to think about before you spend time taking off axles, removing old boots, cleaning joints, packing in grease, putting on new boots and putting it back together.

+1 for the thoughts above. All that’s saved in doing a complete driveshaft swap is the drive shaft. Plus going with a complete unit saves the hassle of wrestling the circlip off which secured the CV to the driveshaft. When your done totaling up the component parts, you really aren’t that far ahead.

Agree with Bob. You can throw the old ones in a box and rebuild them later when you are bored.

Also if they have been like that for a while, that old grease gets flung e v e r y w h e r e and is a lot of fun to clean.

Where to source these clamps?
 

Does anybody know what size this wheel axle nut is?

I watched a YouTube video where they guy claimed a 30mm would do it, but the reality is that it didn’t work.

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74-83, 87-89: M20 Castellated nut @ 217-231 ft-lb

84-85: M22 x 1.5, Self-locking nut @ 339 ft-lb

Yours lookalike the M22 version: https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&make=POR&Last Visited_input=&page_number=1&description=rear%2520 axle%2520nut

Actually 32 mm.

Having a really hard time breaking it loose...


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32mm is the socket size for a M20 nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1553976563.jpg

Chapeau!


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1/2" drive breaker bar, (3/4" is preferred) and a 4-5 ft pipe

Yeah, that made it. 1/2in break bar and 10ft pipe.

Thanks everybody!


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This is one of those moments when I think “why the h**** did I decide to do this?”

This belongs to a 87 Carrera.

As you can see below, I have the complete axel out and the broken boot removed. The question is, how do I disconnect the zinged plate from the black one to access the bearings?

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Here’s a terrific albeit long thread on everything CV. I used it when doing mine. Get a beverage and have a read. Lots of great info.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html


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just replace the boot.
or is there an issue with the bearing?

Where to source these clamps?
 

The question is, how do I get to the bearing?
In same videos I watched you can disassemble the black piece and the golden piece by removing some bolts. In this case there are no bolts, so not sure how to disassemble it.

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put it upside down and gently tap it off working all araound

that's the old Version for SC and early Carrera imho up to 1983(4?).

Thanks for your feedback Flojo,

I’ve tried it a few times today with no luck. I’ll try again tomorrow.


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I’ve been trying to tap it off for the last 2 days. It hasn’t moved not even 1/32 of an inch. I’m definitely doing something wrong.

Any suggestion before I surrender?

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If I recall correctly, you cannot replace/access the outer bearing on the G50 drive shafts. Replacement is necessary if the bearing is bad. It is an ugly job. Good luck. Steve

Here is part of the deal - by the time of your '87, Porsche did not use bolts to connect the outer CV to the output shaft flange. Before that, the outside CV was set up just like the one on the transmission side - with bolts through the stack of parts. For your year and later, the CV was friction welded to the flange, which is why you had to break that big nut loose and pull the splined shaft out. On earlier cars you leave that stuff alone.

This is part of the reason Porsche switched to selling the whole axle assembly, as there is no practical way of replacing just an outer CV.

I had thought you could still disassemble and inspect the outer CV, and then reassemble if it was still good. The notion was that if, after removing the stamped steel part which holds the boot, you could move the axle into its maximum cocked position, you could get one of the CV balls out, and keep going until you could get them all out, at which point you could withdraw the center grooved CV piece from the outer grooved part. If no pits or dents in races and balls, reassemble, regrease, and reinstall.

But if you can't get that cap piece off, you can't cock the axle far enough to start coaxing the balls out. Not a problem on the older version, because like the inner, the cap piece was held on by the bolts. No bolts, need some other way to hold that piece on.



If this repair is possible, time and money are what decides if you should buy the "everything" replacement, or just regrease and replace old boots.

Thank you guys.
I guess I didn’t want to accept it, and kept confusing myself comparing it with the 915 transmission.

This said, what a terrible engineering solution that Porsche came up with.



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Well, it wouldn't be my frugal cup of tea either, doing my own work.

But it would be interesting to compare costs using a paid mechanic. The outer six bolts are harder to deal with than the ones on the transmission side, so one big nut vs six bolts. If Porsche says you have to replace the bolts, there is a cost savings there for the outers (I don't replace them, but I don't have customers, and a boss who might say do it by the book). Pulling the CVs off the axle and putting new ones back on takes some time, though not much, especially if you have the right tool to spread the clips and the CV isn't too stuck on the splines. Even something as simple as taking old boots off and replacing them takes some time. And greasing two new CVs takes some time and care, though you could probably make a fixture sort of like a bearing greasing tool with a grease nipple to speed that up. And getting the CVs to seal on the flange side, using the factory gaskets, is not as easy as it might look given the proximity of all that grease. With the grease there is some clean up time. So when you add in labor and other costs, which comes out ahead?

Who knows, maybe some day one of us will be having a beer with Hans or Ludwig or somebody who worked in Stuttgart in the '80s and knew why Porsche made this change, and we'll find out. Was it bean counters (save production line costs) or gripes from dealers or just the eternal urge of engineers to make things better (which may depend on the point of view)?

Does anyone have recommendations on cleaning the out joint since you can’t disassemble? Would I be ok with spraying it out with brake cleaner, letting it dry and repack? I don’t see any references in the manual about necessarily cleaning but just to repack. Any suggestions for those that have done it?

It’s great that this thread came up as I had ordered all new boots and was going to clean and repack both inner and outer but hadn’t noticed the distinction of the outer not able to be dissembled on 87+ cars.

Ctopher

I've cleaned mine so I could inspect them, so this was never an issue (nor is it at all difficult to clean them when disassembled).

Brake cleaner and an air gun should get most of the old grease out. If the boot was intact, Will be messy with when using the air gun, but I think essential - you can't count on the cleaner to turn all the grease to the viscosity of, say, water.

I can't see any reason to worry about some old grease remaining. What is worrisome with torn boots is sand, salt, or who knows what, in addition to loss of the lubricating grease.

You can buy what look like large hypodermic needles which have Zerks on them. Perfect for this application, where you can't get at both sides. Get the long kind so they can be slid deep into any spaces where they will go, and buy the grease in a cartridge to go in your grease gun.

After 2 weeks playing with this my conclusion is that is not worth it, at least for models +MY 86.

I ended up ordering new axel assemblies, and my wife complaining for the garage mess.


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Didn’t know they made needle tubes with zerks on them. I did buy 2 different sizes to attempt this exactly, planning on using Swepco Moly 101 grease. My driver does have a outer torn boot so will see if it’s dirty or not. It only appeared to separate when on the quickjack with the wheels hanging so I’ll see soon how clean (fingers crossed) it is inside.

Thanks for the info.

CTopher

Here is another thought on this friction welded deal: assuming you can't pry the outer cap off, so can't disassemble that CV to inspect, use your inspection of the inner CV as a proxy.

If there are any pits, or wear grooves you can feel with the finger (just shiny is normal), or the cage is broken, replace the whole thing on the assumption that the outer is as bad.

It used to be said that if the cage doesn't hold the balls nicely (they just fall out, and don't click into place) you should replace the CV. Whether or not this ever was true, lately (couple of years ago) I've seen brand new CVs where the balls were loose right out of the box. No choice of suppliers here, so just reuse. I'd never discarded a CV for a loose cage anyway, and didn't come to regret it.