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Wheel Bearings/CV Joints Noisy
Hi Gang, I have owned and maintained my 74 911 for over 20 years. Before that I owned and maintained all kinds of European machinery since the 60s. Anyway, last week I drove my 911 around the county roads just to exercise her a little and was surprised to hear what sounded like CV Joint noise. Over the past 10 years I have had several knee surgeries and was unable to drive it like it should be exercised. I will jack it up and put jack stands under it so I can inspect the rear axles and suspension but I was wondering if the joints might have developed flat spots and needed some regular use to keep them in shape, or is that just wishful thinking? Thank ya'll!
LarryT 74 911 |
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You can always turn them around. The outside becomes the inside, so the load is on a different side to the usual in the ball bearing race. That makes them good for another 50,000
And while they are off, shove some more grease in there. ![]() |
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Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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Bill is right, but what noise are you hearing. Clicking noises or growling?
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Yep, if they've been setting for a long time it may have been long enough for the grease to harden up. Repack!! Turning them around is a good idea also.
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Marv Evans '69 911E |
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You’ll see the contact patches of wear where the balls make contact (if you disassemble actual joint). I had the telltale “clicking, tocking” noises in my 930. Flipped and all is well.
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Noisey CV Joints
Yeah, I like the description of it as the "clicking, tocking" that you suggested. Describing sounds using words is always tricky though.
Anyway, I will swap the ends after I take a look at them. I should mention that before I started having leg surgeries, I watched things pretty closely and don't recall any damage to the boots or leaking grease. I also have a spare CV Joint just in case. BTW, what's the consensus on the best CV Joint grease? I assume wheel bearing grease is not designed for this application? Thanks guys, I hope to take a look at the axles this week. Fun stuff to do this winter ![]() Larry |
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I think I used Swepco 101. I put it in the fridge over night then used serrated bread knife to cut in equal portion. Wife thrilled.
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You also use your oven to bake painted automotive parts too. Wife is also thrilled I bet.
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High pressure moly grease. New joints and boots often come with a tube of grease.....perhaps about 6 oz. In theory this is enough. In the real world, it is not enough.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Thanks Gang, I'll do as suggested. I was hoping I could drive it until the joints started working better (like you can do with flat spotted tires that sat too long) but didn't want to do additional damage just in case. But I can take my time and fix things properly.
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As you know, they can come apart for cleaning and the balls need to go back into the same joints. Disassembly allows proper cleaning. As others mentioned, if you keep track of which way they were being forced by the engine, then you can put them back onto the axles so that the inner and outer races are being worn in a new spot. Be sure the bolts are all torqued adequately and evenly.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Thanks Superman (Man of CF), As soon as I get a tub of grease I'll repack them and reverse the axle end for end (on same side of tranny) and see how it runs. I may end up selling it this year and want to feel like it was taken proper care of while I owned her. I appreciate your suggestions...
LarryT 74 911 2.7 w/EFI |
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Consider synthetic cv joint grease as it behaves very differently at temperature to conventional grease.
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Thanks, will do -
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Quote:
I did a lot of research on grease. the swepco is a very good grease
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what is the sound you hear.
growling is a wheel bearing, which is what I bet it is because for one CV joints don't go bad sitting. 2 there is not a lot of moving of the CV joint like there is on a front wheel drive car. a wheel bearing can also sound like a bad tire.
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You should also verify all bolts are properly torqued. Sometime they can back out and create a noise.
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Quote:
I assume I should keep the Left Side Axle on the Left Side?, but just turn them around end-for-end, and do the same thing for the Right Side (and pack all 4 with more grease and new gaskets)? BTW, Should I buy a pack of new Washers? (the name of the washers escapes me at the moment but it'll come to me). Seems like there is some controversy concerning the need to replace them. Thanks Gang, Sorry for my Delay in pulling the wheels. Thanks again, Larry 74 911 Coupe w/EFI |
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Caveman Hammer Mechanic
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More info on CVs than anyone thought possible:
Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints For washers I use NLX series by Nordlock. Before you torque read the last few pages of the thread, specifically “settlement” mad lots of sense to me. 3600 seconds isn’t a long time to insure a proper job.
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make sure the bolts are long enough. there should be 2-3 threads sticking out past the flange.
If not goto Fastenal and get the proper length, they come in 5mm lengths. you have to buy a bag of 50 but that is still cheaper than buying the proper amount from here. you can also get the washers from them too. make sure the threads are clean from grease.
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