Removing pedal cluster - help!

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

I'm trying to remove the pedal cluster from the car in order to put new bushings in. I can't for the life of me seem to understand how to remove the vertical brace that is connected from the pedal cluster to the car. There seems to be a 17 mm nut on the end of the bolt that holds the brace in, but I can't get a socket, nor the closed end of a wrench in there. I also cannot get the open end of the wrench in enough to turn the nut without stripping it.

Any suggestions? Also, any tips to removing the clutch cable?

Thanks.

Targa Dude · Targa Dude's Garage

Steve, have you tried to remove the vertical brace at the opposite end? it's attached to your Master cylinder..

Jorge (Targa Dude)

dean · 03-20-2003, 02:40 PM

It helps to be young and double jointed. The vertical brace is an allen bolt with the nut welded on the pedal cluster. Is that what you mean? If not the one up top has the nut welded on the brace.
The clutch cable clip can be rotated if you depress the clutch a hair. Then release the clutch pedal and take the pin out

Have fun

BlueSkyJaunte · 03-20-2003, 03:15 PM

I think you may need to trim the short end of an allen wrench to get it in there. This same problem stymied me and I never got around to trying to get that bolt out. I've still got my bronze pedal bushing kit sitting on the workbench, unused.....

john walker's workshop · 04:33 PM

DON'T TAKE THE ARM OFF THE PEDAL CLUSTER! only remove the top 17 mm wrench size bolt on the side of the brake booster housing, and pull the whole cluster out as a unit. likewise, remove the top clip and pin from the brake pedal pushrod, and leave it attached to the pedal. seems everyone wants to pull off all that stuff before taking out the cluster, creating a nightmare for themselves. the arm, of course needs to be removed during the rebush job, but it's easy on the bench. make a template of the angle that the flat arm sits at, before removing it, to ease reinstallation up into the booster housing. if you lock it down at the wrong angle, it's a PIA to get it back up there. the clutch cable clevis clip can usually be persuaded off with a screwdriver. sometimes, they get a notch worn in them after many years, and refuse to budge without a lot of wiggling, and sometimes even break off the outer part of the clip and leave the pin still in there, in which case i spread out the clevis and break it by prying with a screwdriver. can't spend all day on it. i keep a supply of clevises and clips around for this reason. when attaching a new cable to the front clevis, allow the threaded end of the cable to protrude out of the inside of the clevis, but no more than 1/8", or it can interfere with the clutch lever that the clevis attaches to.

BlueSkyJaunte · 03-20-2003, 03:34 PM

Damn, JW, now I don't have any excuse for not rebuilding my pedal cluster.

Thanks!

82SC · 03-20-2003, 04:48 PM

yeah I removed the vertical base at the pedal cluster when I did it...PAIN IN THE ASS...but it was my first time and it was doable...

when reinstalling I couldn't find where the vertical brace went into the MC and didn't want to take out the maze of ducts and stuff to find it...again it is doable...pain in the ass but doable...

one tip was is try to do your clutch return sprin before installing the cluster...I found using a stratigically placed C-clamp you can tighten it and make the small end of the spring snap into place

if you installed the cluster without installing the clutch spring use a pry bar and the vertical brace to snap it into place...

MJ

john walker's workshop · 03-20-2003, 04:59 PM

there's a tool made for installing american car brake springs onto an anchor pin that works well to install the helper spring. it's basically just a rod with a notch ground into the end. the notch grabs the knob that the spring attaches to, and with a careful pry, the spring slides down the rod onto the knob.

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

Well, after going out after dinner, I managed to get the allen bolt on the other side of the 13 mm nut off. I ground down a 8 mm hex wrench, and that seemed to work pretty well. If I would have had any other trouble, I probably would have taken the other end off, but I was so close I didn't want to go mucking around in the front compartment.

Now, I just need to get the clutch cable loose. Man, that little clevis pin is a b*tch to get off. I may have to bite the bullet, tear it out, and buy a new one. Otherwise, the only other thing I have to do is take off the belly pan and loosen the last 2 bolts.

BTW, I'm awfully glad I took out the drivers seat. I don't think my 6'3" body would fit in there otherwise!

Thanks for the help everyone.

82SC · 03-20-2003, 07:53 PM

on the pedal pin...save yourself a headache...find a local machine shop or a car shop with a shop press...have them press it out...

(bring some a blow-up diagram of the cluster, rags, grease, degreaser, and the bushings with you)

do the rebuild in the parking lot, and have them press the new pin in for you...

you may throw them 10-20.00 for their trouble...or bribe them with a pizza

sure it is not pure DIY...but when I read some of the threads about trying to get it off...uggg

but if you can accomplish it on your own...even better

MJ

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

One more question -

Does it make the job any easier to release the clutch cable at the transmission? If you do, does the cable have to be readjusted when you put everything back together?

Thanks.

john walker's workshop · 03-21-2003, 06:51 AM

the cable needs to be disconnected at the rear, and readjusted when you're done. did you read my first post? you did it the hard way.

JK-81SC · 03-21-2003, 07:24 AM

Steve,

We're lucky to have John Walker's professional advice on this forum.
While there are friendly people who offer good tips, JW offers advice that will save you mucho time and $$$. I usually print out his advice and tuck them into my "101 Projects" book. Those two sources have saved me hours in the garage.

Jeff

targa80 · targa80's Garage

As JW said in his post I'll bet your clevis pin is worn and has a notch that's why it is so hard to remove. When I di mine I was amazed at how much it was worn out with the notch.

Jdub · 03-21-2003, 08:00 AM

Steve:

I did as you, grinding down a hex wrench, moving the pedal out of the way as best as possible, and turning that damn thing a bit at a time.

Yes, you must readjust: else how could you enjoy the fruits of your good work?

Did you purchase a new clutch cable and helper spring? You REALLY SHOULD!. As a minimum, be prepared to have someone spot weld what you will now find is a oval hole at the clutch cable clevis pin-to-clutch pedal "ear." This is the place where the clutch pedal "tube" goes through the assembly and comes out the right side, in the tunnel. Here you will find the clevis pin hooks to the "ear" of the clutch pedal, and typically the bushing is LONG gone with the pin having now acted directly on the clutch pedal hole. This causes notichness and the clevis pin is usually equally beaten up.

This is why, when you rebuild the pedal rack, you should as a minimum purchase a new clevis pin and be prepared to bring the pedal rack to a welder. A new brass bush is provided in Pelican's brass bushing kit (also highly recommended) but even this bush cannot last for long if the old round hole is now elongated from wear. You've gotta weld it up and refile the hole nice and round to provide complete support to the bushing.

John

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

Well, I finally got the pedal cluster out. I ruined the the clevis and the clevis pin trying to get the pin out. I also managed to break off the bolts that hold the big metal piece to the car (the bolts that have to take of the belly pan to remove). So, off to Pelican to get the necessary replacement parts.

I'd have to say, if I were to do it again, I wouldn't do it again. The pedal cluster really wasn't that bad. Oh well, education is expensive.