3.2 will not crank

[CCM911]

Hello:

The car was starting fine. Then one day, it would just not turn over. Along with a friend, we listened for noise from the solenoid and there was just a click.

Just put in the new starter and still will not turn over. The solenoid makes a noise, but that is it. Battery is also new.

Tomorrow, I'll check for 12 volts at the starter. I'll also check the yellow wire. What voltage should I see on that one?

Am I missing anything?

I tried searching, but was not successful. I always have trouble with the search feature for some odd reason.

I am so sorry if this is a subject that has been beaten to death.

Thanks so much.

[M491Cabriolet]

I had a similar problem once and it drove me crazy. I did everything you are doing and all looked ok. Still no cranking from the starter. I tested the solenoid and found the starter to be fine. Finally, by pure luck, I randomly touched the 14 pin(?) connector near the cdi box and, voila, magic! So I unplugged it, blew it a kiss, plugged it back in and never heard from that gremlin again. I think it must have been corrosion in the plug. I hope your issue is as simple and cheap as mine was.

[T77911S]

CLEAN the battery connections along with grounds.
battery to body and body to tranny grounds.

use a test light, not a MM.
first test the battery connection at the starter to get a reference for the brightness, then check the yellow wire when cranking.

if power to yellow wire is bad check it at the 14 pin connector at the relay panel

[gomezoneill]

This

Originally Posted by m491cabriolet

i had a similar problem once and it drove me crazy. I did everything you are doing and all looked ok. Still no cranking from the starter. I tested the solenoid and found the starter to be fine. Finally, by pure luck, i randomly touched the 14 pin(?) connector near the cdi box and, voila, magic! So i unplugged it, blew it a kiss, plugged it back in and never heard from that gremlin again. I think it must have been corrosion in the plug. I hope your issue is as simple and cheap as mine was.

[yelcab1]

Yup, there is corrosion at the 14 pin connector where the wires go to the solenoid

[CCM911]

I am heading out to the garage in a half hour. Thanks so much for the replies. I will report back any findings.

[RAW911]

"I always have trouble with the search feature for some odd reason."

Try this link to a search engine developed by someone else. Enter "3.2 no start" for numerous Pelican Forum links. I've found it very helpful.

Google Custom Search

[al lkosmal]

+1 regarding the grounding strap between the body and tranny........I've had this issue several times on several different 911s.

regards,
al

[brshap]

Intermittent No Start

[pampadori]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

+1 regarding the grounding strap between the body and tranny........I've had this issue several times on several different 911s.

regards,
al

That same ground strap caused my alternator to have zero impact on charging the battery. Battery kept draining after driving it but alternator tested fine on the bench. oil and corrosion caused the strap to have too much resistance.
such a simple part to fail so often.

[CCM911]

So I went out and did some preliminary checks. At the starter, I get 12.7 volts where the black and red cables attach, which is exactly what I an getting at the battery (tested at terminals with a MM). Next, I checked voltage to the yellow wire. It showed almost nothing at rest, and then jumped to 12.7 when turning the ignition switch to Start.


So this tells me the yellow wire is fine, as is the connection from the battery. Could the new starter I bought be bad?


Thanks for bearing with me.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by CCM911

So I went out and did some preliminary checks. At the starter, I get 12.7 volts where the black and red cables attach, which is exactly what I an getting at the battery (tested at terminals with a MM). Next, I checked voltage to the yellow wire. It showed almost nothing at rest, and then jumped to 12.7 when turning the ignition switch to Start.


So this tells me the yellow wire is fine, as is the connection from the battery. Could the new starter I bought be bad?


Thanks for bearing with me.

Chris,

Repeat your above tests using a 12-volt test light to the black and yellow wire terminals at the starter. Look closely at the intensity of the test light when you crank the ignition switch to START position. If you are getting strong light intensity from the TL during the tests and starter doing nothing, then time to get your starter unit bench tested.

Tony

[M491Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by gomezoneill

This

Try unplugging the 14 in connector and lugging it back in. It’s not the voltage in the cable that is the problem, at least it wasn’t in my case. It may have been corrosion causing a disconnect.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by M491Cabriolet

14 pin(?) connector near the cdi box .

Is the CDI box on SC only?
If so, OP has 3.2 Carrera

[M491Cabriolet]

Right you are!

[freeform911]

Dme relay under the drivers seat?

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by CCM911

So I went out and did some preliminary checks. At the starter, I get 12.7 volts where the black and red cables attach, which is exactly what I an getting at the battery (tested at terminals with a MM). Next, I checked voltage to the yellow wire. It showed almost nothing at rest, and then jumped to 12.7 when turning the ignition switch to Start.


So this tells me the yellow wire is fine, as is the connection from the battery. Could the new starter I bought be bad?


Thanks for bearing with me.

as I said and now tony has said, you CANT use a MM to do this!!

check the test light (TL) at the battery to get a reference for it brightness.
then check the battery cable at the starter.
then check the yellow wire with someone cranking, it needs to be as bright as it was with the battery test.
you could also check the battery connection with It on start.

I use to do auto electric work for a living and I am and electronics tech for the FAA.

the solenoid requires a lot of current to pull in. any resistance in the path drops the current available to do this.
a MM does not need current to measure 12v. so there may not be enough current to pull in the solenoid but enough for the MM to measure 12v.

if you have an aftermarket car alarm take a look at that wiring. they usually cut the yellow wire and wire in a relay. (NOT the way to do it). the crimps may be bad at the relay if you have an alarm.

[CCM911]

As soon as I can get an assistant, I will use my test light. I promise.

When my ECU went, my first order of business was to remove the Ungo box system from the car.

What and ordeal!

I will report back shortly.

[T77911S]

clean the grounds first

[CCM911]

Well, I popped off the starter and bench tested it. It works fine, so I put it back in.

As soon as I get an assistant, I'll use my test light down below.

When I removed the Ungo box, I had to solder the thick yellow wire from the ignition switch back together. I have an odd feeling that this could be the culprit. But I will first use a test lamp to see what is going on down below.