Punch size for pin on clutch release fork?

[mike sampsel]

So I have 1/8” and 1/4” punches. Neither seem right to remove the rollpin on the clutch release fork. What size do you guys use?

[Flat6pac]

I’ve ground mine down to make it work but large enough to press the pin itself.
Bruce

[juanbenae]

ive drilled a roll pin out that I munged up & mushroomed being less concerned than you over punch diameter. they are soft by nature so if you can get one side driven into the bore anything close to flush any non tapered punch a little less than the diameter of the seat should work.

[hughc]

I purchased a set of metric sized punches and used the 4mm size.

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by hughc

I purchased a set of metric sized punches and used the 4mm size.

Metric tools on a metric made car! What are you thinking!

['78 SC]

FWIW, there are roll pin punches specifically for this. The extra projection keeps the punch centered and lessens the chance of collapsing the roll pin.

Like most of us, I don't have a set of these (yet). Available in metric sizes.

[john walker's workshop]

When you do it, keep the fork angled out so the roll pin doesn't hit the bellhousing and get the fork stuck.

[hughc]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

When you do it, keep the fork angled out so the roll pin doesn't hit the bellhousing and get the fork stuck.

Right. I actually jammed a pce of wood behind the fork to prevent the roll pin from contacting the bell housing.

[mike sampsel]

Some great advice for this newbie, thanks! Bentley just says drive dowel pin out of clutch fork, what could possibly go wrong? Glad I asked and got all this experienced help!

[mike sampsel]

So the piece with screws to the case is impeding my removal of the roll pin. I assume I can just undo the screws to gain more room?

[hughc]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

So the piece with screws to the case is impeding my removal of the roll pin. I assume I can just undo the screws to gain more room?

If you are going to remove that pce that you are referring to, please be sure to empty the transmission of oil, if it hasn't yet been done, otherwise you'll have a terrible mess in your shop.

[john walker's workshop]

You're doing it from the wrong side. Remember to keep the fork angled out so the pin doesn't contact the bellhousing and get the fork stuck.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

You're doing it from the wrong side. Remember to keep the fork angled out so the pin doesn't contact the bellhousing and get the fork stuck.

Thank you! I’ll take a look at it from that perspective. After mounting my half moon on the wrong side, (which I corrected) I thought I might get one right.

[Walt Fricke]

I was earlier going to give advice sort of like JW did, but I couldn't remember which way to hold the fork, so I didn't. Unlike JW, I've only done this once. I just remembered getting the pin half-way or so out, and realizing things were going to start running into other things and cause a real problem, but couldn't remember which way was which. I was able to get out of that pickle. But if you are aware of the potential it isn't all that hard to think it through when looking right at everything, and moving the fork around. You have to be able to line the punch up with the pin, hit it with a hammer, and the pin needs enough room on the back side to come all the way out without hitting anything. Well, at least far enough out that it is clear of the vertical rod, so the rod can be pulled out of its bushings.

[mike sampsel]

Well once I put the tranny in the position it would sit in the car it became pretty easy to understand JW’s guidance. 4 mm punch worked great too.

[mike sampsel]

So continuing with a related piece of the clutch spring helper:

I plan to remove the pictured pin and lube it good without the pin.
My coach suggested this be done for improvement in shifting.

As such which side should I pound on to remove the pin?

Red or green?



Looks like the green side is larger, so pound in the red side?

[john walker's workshop]

As the arm sits in the car, I always knock it out front to rear. That's the only way to get at it in situ.

[mike sampsel]

Well I’m posting this here and it will go in foolishness thread too. So the pin in the clutch spring/arm was not an easy punch out. So I recalled reading someone drilled theirs out. Red lights flashing ... so I drilled on mine and the bit went in and broke off. This made pin removal even more challenging. Lots and lots of wacks with 5 lb hammer to get this combo out. Bet no ones ever seen this





Moral might be, if your gonna drill here use the right bit type with a drill press.

[john walker's workshop]

I get it moving with a pointed air hammer bit, then follow up with a hammer and punch. Unless it's stuck on the shaft, no real need to mess with it.

[RWebb]

after the broken drill bit, you are now ready to get the roll pin out of the pedal cluster

Bon Appetit !!