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Thanks, great info.
I'll do this in the next few days.

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Old 06-18-2019, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
When my ground strap failed me, i too was getting 13.2-13.6 volts when i checked it. But then i'd go for a drive and come back and that number would be more like 12.8-13.0 while running. It would charge for a little while but then go downhill as things warmed up.

It really is super simple to test. Take your jumper cables and use them as a temporary ground cable from your fan shroud to the chassis somewhere. I used the metal plate that the CDI was bolted to i believe. Adding this new path for current to return will immediately improve your voltage so you can verify it in literally 3 minutes (so long as you have jumper cables to use).
I'll also try this
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:57 PM
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i would just take it to the parts store, most do it for free.
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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by T77911S View Post
i would just take it to the parts store, most do it for free.
Yea, but why pass up the opportunity to buy a new tool?

It's weird how certain tools are never purchased by DIY'ers,
yet there are 100's of other tools they'll gladly buy and use once.

After 2 days on the charger, the battery measures 12.46v
I will do the other tests today.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:55 AM
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if you have a charging problem the parts store may be able to tell you if it is a diode or regulator or maybe something else.
otherwise its a crap shoot as to if it is the regulator or something in the alt unless you know what you are doing with a MM.

I am an electronics tech, also use to auto electric work along with rebuilding starters and alt's and even "I" will just take it and have it tested. its just too easy.

no its a cool tool.
I question his results on the alt being good when he put 100amps to it though.
it looked like the voltage dropped to around 10v(would have to go watch again) and un less he had a 70 amp or even 100amp alt on there I thought his reading was bad.
again, I would have to go watch to be sure.
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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
01 suburban 330K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
RACE CAR:: sold
Old 06-19-2019, 10:48 AM
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Latest reading
12.5v but now at 13.7v while running
Gonna get it checked by the store now
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:01 PM
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Can DIY a load test with a VOM or DMM. Hook up leads to the battery, then with the ign. disabled, crank the engine and see the voltage drop to some lower voltage. That's a poor man's load test.

If starting with a fully-charged battery at around 12.6-13 volts, during cranking, a good battery should be not less than 9.6V.

S
Old 06-19-2019, 12:18 PM
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Thanks for all the advice.

I brought it to the store.
They verified the battery was bad.
Turns out, the AGM had a 4 year warranty.
So, I got a replacement for free.

New battery is obviously stronger
Cranks like a bumblebee on Adderall now

Car off 12.8v
Running 13.7v

Back on the road!
I will try to change that strap, either way.

Thanks again for all the advice.
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:35 PM
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Connect a battery maintainer when vehicle not used for days. The battery will appreciate that.

With your voltmeter, check battery voltage with all possible electrical loads ON. If the system charging rate is too low for the loads in use (low 12s), the battery will discharge and we will hear from you again.

S
Old 06-21-2019, 06:09 PM
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Took a long drive today.
Pulled into the driveway, and measured voltage

Car running 13.5v
Car running with lights on 13.2v

Does the voltage go down when the battery is full ?
The battery cranks like it's at 100%.
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Old 06-24-2019, 05:10 PM
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I still think your ground strap is the root cause.
Remember that I mentioned mine would show good charge at first but after a long drive the voltage would start to drop and drop until it was in the 12's.
Old 06-25-2019, 04:36 AM
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battery

My 1982 SC with a new ground strap and a new alternator about 5K miles ago, usually has a measures engine running voltage of around 13.5, however it keeps the battery resting charge at 12.5 volts and I never have any issues. In addition, my voltage output with lights on is about like yours. I realize that the measured alternator voltage can be considered a bit low but, again, I have no issues.

Dave
Old 06-25-2019, 07:15 AM
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The more power (amps) being used the lower the voltage.
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:28 AM
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Suggest measuring active voltage charge with the maximum number of anticipated electrical loads. That includes engine ON, fog and headlights (high beam), blower fan(s), window wipers and defrosters, sound equipment, etc. All put a load on the charging system which should support all these and at a level above battery recharging threshold.

Connect a voltmeter onto any convenient 12V source wire and observe the voltage level during vehicle operation.

S
Old 06-25-2019, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Thanks for all the advice.

I brought it to the store.
They verified the battery was bad.
Turns out, the AGM had a 4 year warranty.
So, I got a replacement for free.

New battery is obviously stronger
Cranks like a bumblebee on Adderall now

Car off 12.8v
Running 13.7v

Back on the road!
I will try to change that strap, either way.

Thanks again for all the advice.
No worries. Batteries are boring but necessary.
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Old 06-25-2019, 01:31 PM
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For kicks, I tested my 911 today

Engine off = 12.9
Running = 14.1V
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Old 04-02-2022, 03:51 PM
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I run a battery tracker - it records battery voltage during startup and sends alerts to my phone when I'm within bluetooth range. My SC Targa voltage is 13.3 with the engine off, 12.8 during cranking and 14.3 at idle.

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/accessories/battery/chargers/bluetooth-tracker-lithium/
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Old 04-05-2022, 07:20 AM
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My 2019 AGM battery is dead.
Last 4 years, I have not driven the car much and it mostly sits on a tender

I put it on a trickle charger overnight and still dead.

I removed the battery from the car and hooked up a 12V charger
Once charged, I will take it to FLAPS and load test.
If fail, I will get a new 48 battery for $200 regular or $250 AGM
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Old 09-26-2023, 12:31 PM
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Assuming the connections are clean and tight ...4 yrs on a battery is about the average life span, some last longer, some don’t. Doesn’t matter if the car in running or kept on charge.
For example I had a 4 yr old that read 12.4v and wouldn’t start my Harley which sat 5 months overwinter on a trickle charger.
Trickle charge overnight won’t fully revive a stone cold dead battery, you’ll need a lot more amperage. Bad battery cells might not charge more than 12.5v.
Heat kills batteries faster too and from overcharge. . Check the voltage output on your charger/maintainer too. I once thought my charger was plugged into the quick connect, I found socket pin was bad. Another older unit didn’t have a charging indicator light. Even the charger can go bad and could affect charging rate.
Old 09-26-2023, 05:23 PM
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sugarwood -- what make/model tender were you using? How frequently do you drive your car? Asking, as I frequently let my car sit for a week or 2 at a time and don't use a tender (unless its sit for a month or so) -- my last 2 AGM batteries each lasted me over 6 years and wondering whether frequent battery tender use is slowly "cooking" your battery.

Having dealt with the very messy aftermath of an overcharging situation with my last non-agm battery (which boiled out onto the battery tray and components beneath the tray), I will never install another non-agm battery in my 911.

Old 09-27-2023, 06:02 AM
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