Mfi adjust method

[47silver]

The main rack has a 5mm allen bolt covering the adjustment screw.
I use a long 5mm 3/8 socket with a 3/8 to 1/4” reducer connected to it.
With air cleaner on and tstat hose connected i fit the socket to the bolt.
Have an 18” 1/4” extension that i fit into the socket and loosen the bolt. Do not try to remove it. Get a smasl extension magnet and put it on the bolt snd washer. Gently pull back on the extension and the bolt and washer should stay on the magnet.

Tip on Adjusting the rack: if you look under the plate that the coil is attached to, you will see a small opening between the plate and the fan housing. The mfi screwdriver tool will slip through that slot and the screwdriver will be almost guided into the adjustment hole and to the slotted screw. Each full turn has 12 clicks.

I had to file my mfi took down ti fit into the hole.

Caution: If you turn the adjustment screw too far out, i think about 11 turns, the screw will fall out along with a very small spring and tiny detent that requires surgery on the pump,

To get the 5mm bolt back in put some paper on the end of the socket and attach the bolt and washer to the socket. Slowly work it under the linkage and onto the screw hole,

Tighten and done.

Clockwise leans/ccw richens

[47silver]

here is how i got the mfi working.
main rack 63 clicks (5 full turns and a quarter turn) counter clockwise from full clockwise.
Idle adjustment 33 clicks (5 full turns and1/2 turn) counter clockwise from full clockwise.
I removed all linkages.
Adjusted bypass screws to 1.5 turns ccw from full stop cw.
Measured 20 times to make sure the linkage from the pump to the crossmember was 114 MM.
Adjusted the linkage from the connection next to the pump that extends to the crossmember was to make sure that the pump lever was at rest against the stop. I read where his is supposed to be 275mm but i had to make it longer.
Measured the linkage from the crossmember to the #2 and #5 throttle bodies and made sure that they are 149.5 mm
When these are connected they move the #2 and #5 tb's. Since this is such a critical measurement i figure that this is the correct position. So taking a chance i linked the rest of the linkages to match to #2 and #5 respectively and ajusted the stops to barely touch.
the car started and began to idle and could rev easily.
i used the sychrometer to set all of the tb's with the idle bypass screws to about 6.25 kph at 950/1000 rpm.
both of my gauges showed about 12.5 afr and it may need a click richer but have not had a chance to run it through the paces but it revs quickly and the popping and backfires are gone.
it may not work for everyone but since the 114mm and 149.5 mm are so critical it seems to me that everything should reference those linkages.