just ordered one. can't wait to try it out!!

The only thing holding me back from buying this is that nagging thought of extra weight in the valvetrain. My gut tells me it's probably nothing, as the valve weight and half the rocker arm weight all contribute to valve float, 2-3g's more is probably negligible, but...


Brad, What about approaching some known engine builders that have engine dyno's? Next time they have one hooked up and run a pull have them swap in these and repeat. Ideally on a motor that rev's past 7K so you can see if there's any breakup of power way up in the rpm's.

Gotta be somebody out there curious enough to do it.

Maybe a dumb question. I just watched the videos for snap gap; theoretically can
you do all the valves at once w/o rotating the engine, since you are adding the same shim
and equal torque to all the adjusting nuts. John.

No!

Think about it. You still have to adjust the gap to zero before adding the shim and you only do that at TDC for each cylinder.

I was just thinking that you are making the gap adjustment between the rocker and the adj. nut
instead of the foot to valve stem so all the rocker to nut gaps become equal irrespective
of what the valve stem gap is. By the way I do all my valve adjustments w/ a feeler gauge.
John.

Can we get some for Bugs and Buses? 😊

snap gap
 

I drove with this kit for over a year now...just excellent!

No, No, No!!

If you adjust the valves the normal way the gap between the rocker and the nuts are all the same too! It's zero. The nut position isn't what is important. It is the location of the elephant's foot relative to the valve stem at TDC for respective cylinder.

The Snap Gap works because you put the elephant's foot against the valve stem and then lock the "nut" to that specific spot on the elephant's foot. You then back out the elephant's foot until you can fit that .004" shim between the "nut" and the rocker.

You still have to get that "nut" locked on the right place on the elephant's foot and the only way to do that is to have each cylinder at TDC for each rocker.

Three No's means it is time for me to end the mental gymnastics. Can't go to the bar in
the bay area, my son is in distance learning and my wife is working from home. Thanks for
playing along. John.

It's really not mental gymnastics....well, at least it shouldn't be. It should be obvious. If all we had to do was adjust the gap between the nut and the rocker, rockers would come that way from that factory and you would never need to adjust valves.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will explore it. I may know just the guy to take this on.

Made of Oak - The SNAPGAP collars will fit any Bug/Bus adjustment screw that is 8mm x 1.0 (same as 911). That is a lot of VW models. I have a list if you are interested. I also have sets of 0.15 mm shims for those who prefer that adjustment for their VW. However, when I sent a free set to someone to test out on their VW, they could not get the collars to lock to the VW adjustment screws. My impression was that the VW adjustment screws did not protrude from the rocker arm far enough to "catch" the collar.

I have not had a chance to run this down further on a VW engine. That said, if you want to give it a try on your VW and give me some feedback, I would be glad to send you a "VW" kit on the house - including a set of shims and screws for your 911. Just PM me.

I cannot tell you how great Brad is for customer service. It was my mistake and he made it right..quick service and response.
Thank you Brad