One Handed Valve Adjustment in 1 min. 10 sec.

[lespaul]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81tYcrghTy0&t=4s

[Geronimo]

Okay, that seems pretty cool.

[boyt911sc]

Brad,

I will be conducting my second Engine Rebuilding Classes soon and would like to include this novel tool for the valve adjustment section. I am a very skeptical individual and not easily impressed by things, people, etc. But on rare occasions, I find myself being convinced and becomes a believer.

I like to purchase one set of this Snap Gap tool for myself and include it in the valve adjustment sessions. PM sent.

Tony

[BrakeL8]

WOAH - this looks utterly brilliant

[island911]

Originally Posted by BrakeL8

WOAH - this looks utterly brilliant

It does?

How?

Seems slow and then you have tiny pieces of shim to deal with on the next adjustment.

[sc_rufctr]

That system is impressive.

Perfect for the not so confident home mechanic but if you ever sell the car a pro mechanic would be surprised by the shims and jam nut setup. Not a deal breaker but something worth mentioning.

I'd certainly consider it but I've never had issues adjusting my valves the traditional way.

[pampadori]

may i suggest you buy a sohc honda CB750 and expand your product fitment? THere are probably lots of other applications that use very similar setups. The CB750 just happened to be one that I recently did a valve adjustment on. So you know, go get rich already!

[Gretz]

I was also impressed when I first saw this. Any reviews from Pelicans who have purchased and installed these?

[Speed metal]

This is crafty! Makes sense to me. How easy!

[proporsche]

for me it looks cool but as i have asked Brad..how do you fit this while the engine is in the car?
For example cyl.number 6 or left hand bottom -1-2-3 at the catalyst.Absolutely no place to do this...

Ivan

[kuehl]

Interesting approach. My only concern is the 'shim' falling out, for any reason or cause, after the motor is running. Comment?

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by proporsche

for me it looks cool but as i have asked Brad..how do you fit this while the engine is in the car?
For example cyl.number 6 or left hand bottom -1-2-3 at the catalyst.Absolutely no place to do this...

Ivan

Probably just use a regular torque wrench instead of their fancy little one included in the kit. The rest of the job doesn't look like it needs any more space than what a regular adjust would need to fit in the feeler gauge tool, a stubby driver and a 13mm wrench.

[lespaul]

Probably just use a regular torque wrench instead of their fancy little one included in the kit. The rest of the job doesn't look like it needs any more space than what a regular adjust would need to fit in the feeler gauge tool, a stubby driver and a 13mm wrench.

Yes. Or remove the CAT.

[lespaul]

Interesting approach. My only concern is the 'shim' falling out, for any reason or cause, after the motor is running. Comment?

FAQs
Q. Can the parts get loose in my engine?

A. We have extensively road tested this system (running it in a '78SC for more than a year) and have never had any parts get loose. This is because the stainless steel screw that folds the spring steel collar against the valve adjustment screw threads is held in place by back pressure from the spring steel once it is locked down. Further, the collar screw has a pre-applied high temp nylon threadlocker patch that is good up to 500 degrees F to prevent the screw from rotating. Finally, unlike the OEM jam nut, the collar itself is locked to the valve adjustment screw and, of course, the valve adjustment screw with the elephant’s foot on it is not able to be removed from the rocker arm without taking the entire rocker arm out of the engine.

[lespaul]

I was also impressed when I first saw this. Any reviews from Pelicans who have purchased and installed these?

From this thread

Poor performance, Low compression, Cam timing? (kinda long)

Yesterday, I finally checked all the head bolt torque and they were 100% fine. I adjusted the valves using the SnapGap system that I decided to try out (pretty cool method and it's dead-nuts on gap).

[proporsche]

Hi Brad, ok thanx for the info

Ivan

[Reiver]

Looks well designed and executed and always interesting to see a new way to skin a cat....an exact way.

Question, someone brought up the added weight on the valve train....I have no idea if that could be an issue or not....what are your thoughts Brad?

[rwest]

While we’re asking questions, if and I know you designed the shims to avoid it, but if a shim did fall out, would the gap get looser, tighter or stay the same?

[lespaul]

Reiver,

The OEM jam nut weighs 2.7 g. The SNAPGAP collar, shim and cap head screw total 6.1 g. In developing SNAPGAP, I read a lot of articles about the impact of increased weight on valve train components. I am sure others with more knowledge than I can provide additional or more technical input. However, this is what I have taken away from my reading. Most of the articles concern the desire to reduce weight in valve train components in drag racing engines where a premium is placed on reducing moment of inertia on push rod engines where the rockers are directly opposed to gravity so as to achieve higher RPMs faster. Those engine builders are trying to balance the strength of components at 10,000 RPM vs. weight of rockers, valves and valve springs and push rod components vs. cost of titanium materials and so on. One article noted that at 5000 RPM additional valve train weight makes no meaningful difference.

I could not find any information on the 911 set up where the shaft mounted rocker arm ends are not directly fighting gravity.

In my personal experience driving my SC with and without SNAPGAP, I have not noticed any reduction in power or ramp up -- but I may be biased. Rather, my engine seems smooth, powerful and quiet -- no ticking.

I explored and had prototypes made of high strength aluminum (1/2 weight of steel) as an alternative to steel for the collars but at this point have concluded that because the expansion rate of aluminum is 2x that of steel, there is too much risk of the collar expanding and loosening around the adjustment screw. If I were convinced that eliminating the additional weight would make a meaningful difference, I would explore other lightweight materials such as Titanium -- but the cost may be prohibitive.

Hope that is useful information.

Brad

[Reiver]

Thanks for the info Brad and the weight numbers....I'd not want alloy there either so your choice is a good one considering strength / cost.