Well yes & no. My lift is a Dannmar D-7 and I did what others have done on this forum. Decided to move the free rail i.e. the one without the hydraulic cylinder out as far as possible, which gave me the necessary extra few inches of clearance between the ramps. The ramp simply rests on the frame underneath so not much to move it.

Didn't have the stomach to hang the car's ass over the back of the lift, which seems to be another popular alternative when doing a drop on a 4-post.

Actually the issue was getting the jack high enough to support the engine/trans before pulling their respective mounting bolts. My jack maxes out at 22" which wasn't high enough to still be able to get under the lift to remove the transmission bolts. The extra height gained with the pallet etc made it a lot easier. Then it was just a matter of carefully raising the lift/car off of the engine.

Of course, now I can't move the engine anywhere but plenty of space to work underneath the car since it's not going anywhere either.

Did you lift the car off the engine ?

I made a sling and picked up the rear of the car with an engine hoist using the two holes for the engine mounts in which i inserted two large eyebolts.
Had to make two stands out of wood blocks to get get the front wheels off the ground about 12 inches and i was able to slide the engine out from under the car without removing the rear bumper ...

Ahhhhhh ...memories !!!

Yup, car lifted and engine stayed put.