Getting everything back on the car! Love how everything turned out. Going to replace the rear parking brake shoe’s as well.
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Great find and a nice story line but can you reduce your picture size...…

The latter posts in my thread about replacing parking brake shoes on an SC may be helpful to you!

The takeaway is the aftermarket Dansk shoes were horribly out-of-spec.

911 SC Parking Brake Shoe replacement

Sorry I use Tapatalk to post and it lets me upload full-size. Some members prefer the higher resolution, some don’t.

After reading this thread and taking a look at how my new Dansk shoes compared, I’ve decided to hold off on replacing the shoes. My Porsche OEM shoes are not bad and easily have many years left in them.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Finally finished the whole refresh of the braking system. Replaced all Rubber lines with DOT4 approved stainless steel, rebuilt all 4 calipers including zinc coating on all external and internal surfaces, fresh pads & rotors, system flushed & bled with 2 Liters of ATE DOT4 Fluid, front wheel bearings repacked, and new Continental tires!

All of this drastically improved the driving experience. My future plans include paintless dent removal, fan belt replacement, spark plug replacement, and a thorough cleaning of the inner wheels wells. Maybe in spring time I will attempt to lower the front ride height as well.

Looks great!
Good choice on running the original parking brake shoes given their condition.

Belts have been replaced!
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Very nice....what I find unusual is the front splitter below the bumper and the extended fog/driving lights.
My 83 cab has those recessed into the valence/splitter and my 82 same options as yours has the same extended fog/driving lights.
I always thought that was a detail change between the 82-83 years.

Finally took it out for a spring drive to stretch her legs! New license plates too! Now I have to fix a possible exhaust leak!
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Great car! And it is great to see you getting it on the road again properly. Personally, I would live with the stone chips for a while. They add character. Also, you mentioned a possible exhaust leak... As a word of advice, be sure to find out exactly where is the source of that leak. My 83 SC targa had what I thought was an exhaust leak which turned out to be broken exhaust studs. Currently I am rebuilding the engine in my car which is a great and rewarding adventure. But in hindsight if I had realized that the sound I was hearing was head stud issue I should have stopped driving the car and investigated sooner to see what was really going on with my car. I possibly could have limited damage to my cylinders and heads. Live and learn. Anyway, sounds like you are totally on top of it. Enjoy your 83 SC! Best year of 5he SC’s!!

It’s hard to believe, but it’s been five years since my Porsche was last on the road. The last time I drove it, I discovered that the head studs had failed. What I initially thought was an exhaust leak turned out to be combustion gases escaping from the cylinders on the right side of the engine.

Back in 2019, I wasn’t in a position to tackle an engine drop myself, but I always knew that someday I would be. Now, that day has finally come. Over the past few years, I’ve gained a lot of knowledge, picked up new skills, and even gained access to a proper shop space

I’ll have the added advantage of using a lift to drop the engine this time, which will make the entire process significantly easier and safer compared to doing it on jack stands.
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First thing I did was actually diagnose my problem, which revealed itself as soon as I took off the right lower valve cover.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a44b6d1eca.jpg
4 broken head studs(one not pictured) and one stud completely backed off. Also one of the stud washers got jammed into the valve cover most likely from the rocker arm.

When most people would be disappointed to know they have to rebuild their motor. I’m excited to finally dig in and address the root of the problem. Beyond just fixing the head studs, I’m considering whether it makes sense to go a bit deeper. This motor is long overdue for a refresh and I will enjoy adding some fun upgrades to it along the way.

Well I got the motor out! Took two nights of working about 7 hours total. The second night I had the help of my friend who is also a mechanic at an air-cooled Porsche shop in Chicago. I was surprised at how easy the motor came out. This is my first time dropping a motor on my own and had over-estimated the difficulty in my head for a long time. Don't get me wrong, it is still not an easy task, but its not the “brain surgery” that some people make it out to be. Its something most DIYers can do in there garage.
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I didn't have a hydraulic table so we actually used a pallet and pallet jack to support the motor. With the rear wheels removed we simply lowered the car until the motor rested on the pallet jack and used a jack to support and angle the transmission upwards.
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I ordered the QSC truck parts engine yoke on Amazon to make it easier to mount my engine to a stand. I couldn't find a used one anywhere and ran out of time. It was expensive but a worthy investment, plus I can resell it later on. I also just received Wayne Dempseys book on engine rebuilding today so I'm excited to dive into that too.

Welcome to the next big adventure!

It must have been difficult to let the car sit for so long. Looking forward to how this unfolds.

Spent tonight separating the 915 transmission from the engine. The nuts that mount the transmission were pretty rusty and seized. but with enough manipulation I broke them all free unscathed, including that pesky starter stud. The hardest part was actually pulling the transmission off alone. Once I wiggled the clutch lever a bit it broke free.

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Here are some more pictures of the transmission and engine. I’m debating whether to rebuild the transmission myself or have a shop do it. There’s nothing wrong with it, but since I’m already rebuilding the engine…well, you know how the saying goes.

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I’m planning to use a car lift under the pallet to raise the engine to the height I need so I can mount it on the engine stand. Then onto taking the CIS system off.
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I say freshen the trans. The company that rebuilt mine, (California Motor Sports), did a great job. I used them because I didn’t have access to a $2,000 tool to setup a new ring and pinion. He only uses OEM parts. Another problem was the center bearings were loose in the center support plate. He bores out the aluminum bearing bore, sleeves it with steel to the spec dimensions, and presses a new OEM bearing.

There is differences in bearing quality. I see that in every bearing I buy, for any project. I will buy bearings made in Japan, Italy, England, and a few others. No Chinese crap for me. Today I ordered a ball bearing for a Live Center for my lathe. The live center rarely gets used, but why would I sacrifice the quality of my lathe work because of a Chinese bearing…

If your trans is behaving nicely, give it a try.

The last couple weeks have been busy to say the least! Got the engine onto the stand using the lift. Worked out perfect as I didn’t have anyone to help me lift it and I did not want to have to use an engine hoist.
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The disassembly has been pretty straight forward. The most difficult part so far has proved to be the exhaust studs. In typical fashion, all the studs came out easily until the last one rounded out.
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This 3.0L has about 100,000 miles on it. From my inspection of the inside of the cam box it seems to have had regular oil changes. Although I did note that something had come loose in the engine and was bouncing around causing some scratches inside the cam box. You can see the marks to the left of the timing chain tensioner if you look closely at the photo. I haven’t found the source of it yet I’m assuming it’s in the case further.
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The broken studs reveal themselves! 9 of them to be exact. I’m surprised it ran as well as it did. I drove it into the shop before starting the disassembly. Inspection of the broken studs shows corrosion at the fracture point of each one. I wonder if this cars long absence from the road caused the corrosion or if this was an issue that maybe led to the car being parked originally.
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This week I’m going to be working on splitting the cases, bagging and tagging parts, and calling the machine shops to see where I should send everything and what wait times are like. Any recommendations feel free to chime in.

User name: cgarr on the forums for your head work.

Mike, I’m surprised that the engine didn’t exhibit a hissing sound on every compression stroke about the cyl/head junctions.

With the absence of Pressurized Chain Tensioners, you must be the first to bust the engine apart.

What are the plans as far as modifications?