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removing case squirters
has anyone removed and replaced their case squirters.
how did you remove them
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Oil squirters removal........
Quote:
Ty, Use the closest sized drill bit to remove or extract the oil squirters. Measure the outside diameter of the squirters and find the closest drill bit. The oil squirters are held only by the stake marks and will come off easily. It is important that you don’t use an oversized drill bit for extraction. Better to go undersize than oversized so you don’t alter the original bore. Unless you are going to bigger size squirters. Important warning: pressure test the each squirter a couple of times to insure it is secured and will not come off during operation. Keep us posted. Tony |
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did you drill all the way through the squirter as in how deep did you go.
i have a 5.5mm bit. the hole is suppose to be 6mm i believe. the insides came out, cant get the case all the way out. it is sticking where it was stacked in. ground that down a little but still sticking. what did you use to pull it out.
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Drill out........
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Ty, When I replaced the clogged oil squirters, they all came out easily after the stake marks were removed. In your case, try to use a wood or metal screw to grab it and pull it out. The OEM oil squirters are made of aluminum and easy to extract. The drill bit will grab the squirter and make it turn inside the hole. Post some pictures. Tony |
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just trying not to damage the hole.
was trying to just remove the stake marks at first.
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i used a 5mm drill bit.Drill down till the drill bit "spins"and you stop seeing swarf,and stops cutting.Then youve hit the ball bearing.If your lucky, turn it upside down and ball will drop out.If it doesnt, i used a dremmel with a tiny drill bit to remove enough metal around ball bearing till it has enough room to fall out.
I then went with 5.5mm drill.If your lucky it will spin out casing on reverse. If not, I Then used a very fine file(triangular) straight through bottom of casing.It gripped the case and wiggled out. The really stubborn ones (3) I used a tiny punch,and collapsed the edge of the casing until it frees itself.Once its been drilled, its very thin and folds quite easily.First one took 30 mins, the rest about 5 mins each. |
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Here's the process I used:
I don't remember the drill bit size or tap size unfortunately, but could probably look it up... I drilled out the top of the squirter ![]() On 1 or 2 I got lucky and the whole thing came out with the drill: ![]() On the ones that didn't come out with the drill (most), I then removed the spring & ball and any debris: ![]() Then tapped the remaining squirter shell: ![]() Then used a homemade slide hammer to tap the shell out: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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And this is what's left:
![]() Here's my thread: Stuck piston squirters and I installed replacement squirters from www.taorminaracingdesigns.com
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'74 911 Red Sunroof Coupe, 3.6L, etc... '76 912 Yellow SPEC 911/911CUP Last edited by Tom '74 911; 11-12-2019 at 04:15 PM.. |
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thanks.
I was using a screw extractor to "grab" the squirter. did you put original squirters back in. I am looking at the ones that you glue in and are rebuildable.
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Oil squirters removal/replacement........
Quote:
Ty, Whether you use the OEM or the new version by Catorce, it is imperative that you pressure test each “squirter” to insure stability during operation. Test them using at least 20% more than what the engine is actual set for. I have actually seen one squirter flew out of the case during the test and never able to locate it in the garage. Imagine if that happened after sealing the case. Tony |
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[QUOTE=T77911S;10655746
did you put original squirters back in. I am looking at the ones that you glue in and are rebuildable.[/QUOTE] Not sure if this was directed to me... but see my last two comments in my previous post. Here's my thread: Stuck piston squirters and I installed the replacement squirters from www.taorminaracingdesigns.com Tom
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'74 911 Red Sunroof Coupe, 3.6L, etc... '76 912 Yellow SPEC 911/911CUP Last edited by Tom '74 911; 11-13-2019 at 02:25 PM.. |
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I did almost the same as Tom. I used a smaller drill bit to basically cut out the top of the piston squirter. That allowed the ball and spring to fall out when I flipped the case over. Instead of a tap (since I don't have one) I used a larger drill bit which as I drilled down grabbed the squirter and it would start to rotate. Then I just pulled it out on the drill bit.
I replaced mine with the rebuildable ones from Catorce and they are fantastic. Not only can you resize easily if you want/need more oil, but they are a nice piece of mind that the squirters aren't blocked.
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Jonathan '79 Copper 911 SC '88 White 911 Carrera- 98mm p/c with JE 8:1, Turbkraft EFI-T cam, Carrillo rods, Injector Dynamics 1050x, twin COP, AEM Infinity, twin Garrett GT2860rs's |
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the tap worked. used an M5.
going to replace with the glue in ones. after pulling it I was thinking I should have just tested them all first. I had some coking come out of my old turbo and clog and oil hole for the cams. ever since I have worried about the squirters being clogged. purely piece of mind here.
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