Clutch assembly adjustment help

[fizh]

I am in the process of reassembly after a rebuild.

Pushing the clutch in is extremely difficult and doesn't feel like it is fully engaging.

Can someone enlighten me.

Here is a video of the assembly in action. This is the total travel distance from pushing the pedal in. I believe there might need to be more throw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR5KUBmbe-s&feature=youtu.be

[proporsche]

i do not see much just the cable is routed the wrong way possibly...where is your pedal cluster stop adjustment at?

Ivan

[john walker's workshop]

Did you get the release fork engaged into the throwout bearing groove, or is it trapped against the bellhousing?

[proporsche]

yup i think John W.is right...
Ivab

[fizh]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Did you get the release fork engaged into the throwout bearing groove, or is it trapped against the bellhousing?

Is there any documentation on this specific step somewhere. Wayne's books seems to glance over this.

Assuming I will need to do a partial drop to get in there.

[David Inc.]

Bad fork position was my thought too...engine is coming back out if so.

[fizh]

Yeah, crap crap crap.

How low does it have to go to get it on? or will simply backing it out a couple inches to get inside the trans case suffice?

[fizh]

meh, looking at other threads I likely ruined the fork by sealing the engine up.

[proporsche]

there is an inspection hole on top of the bell housing...if you ha a mirror or camera stethoscope..look inside...
Ivan

[proporsche]

here is a pic

Ivan

[Jeff Higgins]

Originally Posted by fizh

Yeah, crap crap crap.

How low does it have to go to get it on? or will simply backing it out a couple inches to get inside the trans case suffice?

Yup, just pulling the motor back off the bell housing studs will move it far enough to reposition the fork properly. That fork only engages in the groove in the last few inches before the motor seats up against the bell housing anyway. Moving it further aft won't gain you anything.

Originally Posted by fizh

meh, looking at other threads I likely ruined the fork by sealing the engine up.

I don't see how that can be. The fork is pretty darn tough. Look at Ivan's photos - all you did was get the fork on the forward side of the throwout bearing. It would have taken an awful lot of force to have bent it or ruined it somehow, and you certainly would have noticed something wrong before that happened.

So, really, all is not lost. Relatively simple fix. Unbolt the motor from the bell housing and slide it aft a few inches. It helps when you are sliding it back forward to have someone holding the pivot shaft for the shift fork as it slides into the groove in the throwout bearing.

It's surprising how far aft you have to have that fork pointed so it catches that groove. I start out with it pointing almost straight aft, or maybe 80 degrees aft. It won't even start to catch the groove until the motor and bellhousing are only a few inches apart. It's really easy to tell if it caught, since it won't pivot forward if it did.

[Flat6pac]

The fork will be distorted and need replacement because it’s been crushed
The stock opening on the fork is 75mm. Remeasure, they are distorted to 80mm
Bruce

[proporsche]

Are you sure with couple of movements the fork will be gone?? Kinda hard to believe...

Fizh ..try to lock it in drive it..........
Ivan