I had the same thing happen once when using the original orange compressor to inflate a tyre.

Jamell,
Thanks for posting your experience. I just removed the Dr. insert. Just looking at the insert it looks like trimming back the longer "tails", i.e. shortening the insert should avoid contact with the clips. It would seem that doing that and never using a metal barrel adapter could be the fix. Am I missing something?
Note that I like having the plug in digital voltmeter and occassional use of a GPS. With the exception of the recommended additional fuses my 911 is totally stock.

I think thats a good approach.

Thanks for your response. Sharing information as you have is where the forum provides real value. The short video was much appreciated. You have helped me. A gold star for Jameel!

For what it’s worth, these fuse holders are really nice for adding a in-line fuse. The connectors crimp like regular electrical connectors and the holder seals out dirt and water.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--in-line-waterproof-fuse-holder--11975885?recordNum=21

Just doesn’t make sense to use the Dr B solution when there are now plenty commercially available products which do not have inherent risk. Flame on Levon.

I guess I just don't understand the need to 'jimmy' a cheap product so that you can charge your phone while driving your 911. Lesson learned....

I trimmed back the insert.Very easy to do and I have about 5mm gap to the contact. Thanks again to Jameel for the heads up.

Trimming back the insert sounds like a good solution. I'm also wondering if an application of Plasti-Dip or Liquid Tape as an insulator would be durable enough to do the trick when applied to the surfaces/edges that are the problem.

Lighter insert
 

These use to be supplied with Escort radar detectors. Don’t know if anyone still makes them available.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1584303973.jpg

That looks like it would be pretty simple to 3D model and print.

So the 911 has been back in action for a few weeks now. Thanks to the excellent service from Dennis Powell I had my rebuilt harness section ready to splice back in less than a week!

Here's what I did. I traced the harness back to good clean wire, just past the wiper motor section. Sent the toasted one to Dennis, and he built a new one using my original fittings and some of his new molded 6-pins. I then spliced it in using butt splices and heat shrink tubing, staggering the joints for a compact package. Dennis was invaluable through the whole process! The harness looks totally stock at this point.

I did not replace the cigarette lighter, because it's a joke. Everyone should replace theirs in my opinion with a USB charger, or just disconnect the wiring from your's if you want the look to be correct. I installed one I found on Amazon, with bonus volt meter. Here's the cool part. It can be installed from inside the car! Pull the radio out and you can reach up between the chassis panels to access. I did have to open up the hole a little with a step drill for the charger to fit. Just a millimeter or so.

While I was in there I also added some inline fuses to the deck lid light (out back) terminal 58a on the light switch, ash tray light, and most importantly I had Dennis add an inline fuse to the cigarette lighter wire so it's protected. It's long enough that I tucked it over near the right fender for easy access.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588079717.jpg

Is this USB mod made by Lucas?

Looks like a solid fix from an uncomfortable working position.

This is the one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLQMTB5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1