87 - Help with removing and replacing engine mounts

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

The long term solution is to remove the internal threads from each end
Sherwood

Sherwood, once the bolt is removed, isn't this a moot point? Can't you just reinstall the large bolt with some anti-seize or motor oil in the threads?

How does one remove the threads anyway?

[sugarwood]

Before OP's repair went off the rails, what effect would lowering the engine have?
How does that make this job easier?

[salayc]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

You're the same guy who was talking about fabricating wrenches and dropping the engine for this job? LMAO.

If it were a 2, OP would not be making a thread about how FUBAR his project is.
It is so confusing that I don't even know what went wrong.

Multiple posters are talking about fabricating wrenches, taking hours to install a bolt,
dropping the ****ing engine, removing engine tin (whatever that is), removing the exhaust, breaking crossbars, welding, etc.

So, no, it's not a 2 when you're taking half the car apart

I think you're overthinking it.

By fabricate a wrench, I mean cut one shorter for the tight space (that is if you don't have one that fits.) Dropping the engine an inch or so to get clearance for the engine mount nuts is not difficult.

The OP is having lots of problems, partially related to a crossbar, possibly because he's creating more work for himself. It's really a simple job, no need to weld, remove engine tins, or exhaust. Of course if something is bent or broken it becomes exponentially more difficult, but a simple engine mount swap is just that, simple.

[salayc]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Before OP's repair went off the rails, what effect would lowering the engine have?
How does that make this job easier?

You can then get a 13mm wrench or socket under the mounts to remove the nuts. Especially on the driver's side.
You have to support the engine anyways, so just lower it a little.

[sugarwood]

When I was researching this repair 6 years ago, someone posted this.
It sounds like OP removed the bolts in the wrong order?
Why would this matter? How can the small bolts stop the bracket sleeve from twisting???

What would be the correct order for removal?
Remove the 2 small side bolts first, then the main center one?
For re-installation, main center bolt, and then the 2 side bolts?

Originally Posted by SoCalSK8r

If you remove the sides before you remove the center, the mount will twist when you remove the center.
Break all 3 free. Remove center and then sides.
For installation I think I did center first (very loose) then the 2 small side screws. Last step is to snug up and torque.

Questions about a possible motor mount DIY

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Sherwood, once the bolt is removed, isn't this a moot point? Can't you just reinstall the large bolt with some anti-seize or motor oil in the threads?

How does one remove the threads anyway?

Assuming there’s a chance the crossbar end could eventually fatigue from repeated R&R, what I suggest is a long term (future tense) solution.

As for your first question about lubing the threads, yes. However, the metal surrounding that end piece remains stressed by loosening and tightening torque.

For thread removal, source a 12mm drill bit and run it through the threaded hole. The result is a clearance hole.

There was another question in this or the previously referenced link about aligning parts to install the bolt. Whether there are threaded parts or not, insert an appropriately sized drift punch or equivalent (nail, Phillips screwdriver, chopstick, etc.) into the desired bolt path, then apply leverage to urge parts into close/closer alignment. If threaded parts aren’t involved, it’s just a matter of inserting the bolt, install washer and nut, then tighten the assembly. Apply torque, ideally, to the nut while holding the bolt head stationary. Since the fasteners may be undisturbed for years, I’d apply anti-seize to threads and frictional surfaces of the assembly.

[Sajan]

Originally Posted by salayc

On a 1-5 difficulty scale it's a 2. Took me all of 20 minutes for the motor mounts. Put a jack under the engine, loosen two bolts, lower engine 1-2 inches, remove mounts, reverse.

Originally Posted by salayc

The OP is having lots of problems, partially related to a crossbar, possibly because he's creating more work for himself. It's really a simple job, no need to weld, remove engine tins, or exhaust. Of course if something is bent or broken it becomes exponentially more difficult, but a simple engine mount swap is just that, simple.

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Before OP's repair went off the rails, what effect would lowering the engine have?
How does that make this job easier?

sugarwood, in theory this is either a 30 min job or a multi-hour job depending on what goes wrong.

like salayc said, the steps simplified are
jack up and support engine, remove 2 big bolts, remove 4 smaller bolts, swap mounts, replace and tighten bolts, lower jack.

things that make it difficult or can go wrong are as follows:
getting a wrench under the mount to hold the nut for the smaller 4 bolt. it's not roomy under there and you need to get clever. this was the original reason for the thread.

then the next thing that can get difficult came to fruition.
that is...big bolt does not want to come out. 700lb ft of torque from impact wrench..did not loosen it. 2ft breaker bar did..BUT

then the next thing that can go wrong..did..
that is...crossmount bar twisted at the end. some people have reported that theirs snapped at the weld point.

obviously at this point you need to get the bar out of the car, which is where i am/was. some people said do a partial drop to get the bar out. i was able to get mine out by removing muffler and rear tin.

i am replacing the bar with a new rennline one that seems much better than the original bar. i am waiting for nuts/bolts to come in before i put everything back. i took the side tins out also and I am going to get all 3 tins powder coated while i have them out.

hope this clarifies things

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

aligning parts to install the bolt. Whether there are threaded parts or not, insert an appropriately sized drift punch or equivalent (nail, Phillips screwdriver, chopstick, etc.) into the desired bolt path, then apply leverage to urge parts into close/closer alignment.

Great trick!

[sugarwood]

I have heard of people talking about engine tins for years. I have no idea what they are. When you reinstall the tins and exhaust, can you take extensive photos? It's rare to ever see photos on this forum, and you appear to own and operate a camera.

[sugarwood]

Is it possible to spray liquid wrench into the M12 bolt hole from underneath the bracket?

[Sajan]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

I have heard of people talking about engine tins for years. I have no idea what they are. When you reinstall the tins and exhaust, can you take extensive photos? It's rare to ever see photos on this forum, and you appear to own and operate a camera.

Picture from another thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads25/DSCN10011459910365.jpg

And yes, I will try to take good pics during the reinstall.

[Sajan]

Finished the project last week. Updated original thread. Thanks everyone!

[rokemester]

Here are some engine tin pics. I’m refreshing my suspension. In order to remove the troublesome trailing arm fasteners I decided to drop the drivetrain. While I was at it decided to clean up the engine tin work and engine mounting hardware.





I’ll post more as I get them installed. I came to this thread in search of the engine cross member fit up relative to the large rear engine tin. Kind of confusing. It’s been months since I dropped the motor and my memory is short.

[rokemester]

The fussy rear tins. These were taken a while back before powder coating.

[sugarwood]

Wow, that's clean! Thanks