3.2 Jacking Question with a pic.

[Hotshot]

Quick question for clarity. Wayne’s book talks about jacking up from engine block sump. But that round base is an SC. On my 3.2 it’s a straight seam.

I used a hockey puck between the jack and the block, found the most level and centred part and jacked it up. Used jack stands on each of the side of torsion bars.

Is doing this method good, or acceptable on a 3.2 or should I be doing it a different way?

I will order some side jack pads at some point.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by Hotshot

Quick question for clarity. Wayne’s book talks about jacking up from engine block sump. But that round base is an SC. On my 3.2 it’s a straight seam.

I used a hockey puck between the jack and the block, found the most level and centred part and jacked it up. Used jack stands on each of the side of torsion bars.

Is doing this method good, or acceptable on a 3.2 or should I be doing it a different way?

I will order some side jack pads at some point.

You actually don't use the sump cover area on an SC to jack the car up - it is not reinforced and will collapse. You can use the case seam - same as on your 3.2. I think it's recommended to use a think folded section of newspaper to help distribute the stress from the jack pad.

And jack stands on the torsion bars is an acceptable location.

[Snitzler]

This, I have two of them. I got them from our host, jack pad.

[Solamar]

Originally Posted by Snitzler

This, I have two of them. I got them from our host, jack pad.

What I use as well.

Jacking from the engine is probably fine, but -

Someone replied to one of these jack threads with "would you press the bottom of your case with a 1500 lb hydraulic ram, on purpose?". I wouldn't.

[smadsen]

I like the "spread the load" gambit. I use a 2" x 4" cut the length of the case seam with a small relief over the sump plate.

I believe you run a great risk with the plate that inserts in the jacking point under the door. That insert is only for lifting high enough to change a tire. If you lift the car too high to get more room under the car, the car tilts at such an angle it can slide off the jack plate, especially if you move from side to side to get the car up higher with the wheels off. It's a long, expensive drop, generally bouncing off a jack stand or two in the process.

[911pcars]

No. Not under the engine.

Do not attempt to “distribute” the weight of a mounted engine with a newspaper, 2x4, hockey puck, pillow, telephone book or anything else. The engine isn’t designed as a load-bearing structure.

YMMV,
Sherwood

[Sajan]

Originally Posted by Snitzler

This, I have two of them. I got them from our host, jack pad.

I have 1 of these, a jack and 2 jack stands.
Key is not to go too high per side at once.

If you have 2 of the pads and 2 jacks, it will be a lot simpler and faster.

I am not lifting the entire car using the engine. No thanks. In an emergency or sticky situation...maybe. But as routine procedure, nope!

[Bill Douglas]

No way would I lift my car by the engine.

Sure you see pic's of the factory doing it back in the day, but they were race cars that weren't expected to last many decades.

[walt]

In Wayne's 101 Projects book he states the engine seam its one of the "best" places to lift your car. I always use the jack pads myself.

[Hotshot]

Originally Posted by walt

In Wayne's 101 Projects book he states the engine seam its one of the "best" places to lift your car. I always use the jack pads myself.

That’s why I asked. I currently don’t have pads. Why I waited to buy them when I was at Pelican is a huge oversight.

[Locker537]

This seems to divide the community in every thread.

I lift via the engine. I use a hockey puck and steer clear of the sump plate.

I then lift the front via the tub cross member, using a piece of 2x4 cut to length.

Lifting back to front feels much safer than side to side. It's subjective.

[Geneman]

Been lifting my 3.2 from the engine case across the rear case seam, no blocks , no pads, nothing for >25 years. as a street car then a race car. never a problem. same goes for the front cross bar ( if you have a low enough profile jack to get it under ) . just be sure to chock wheels fore or aft beforehand. and if you have a low front spolier /splitter .. REMEMBER THAT!! ask me why i now do..