wiring and fuse panel in frunk issues from PO

[x98boardwell]

Well... I am in the middle of a paint out respray, interior mods, and complete engine rebuild. While reassembling the lights I noticed some issues. I never drove this car or even started it as it threw a rod bearing and I purchased then just tore apart and started the process so I'm unaware of what existed prior to..

With that being said while reinstalling the lights I noticed some weren't working, fuses were blowing (I also removed an aftermarket alarm), etc.. etc..

PS.. hard to tell but many wires (mostly red ones) are cracked and one in at 90 degrees.. who knows

Question:
- My blinker/parking light fuses are blowing, I checked some of the wiring from behind and this is what i found... it appears as though these are in poor condition. What is the best way to access and fix these? It seems as though i won't be able to pull the fuse panel further away unless the fuel tank was out as the fill nozzle is in the way. This (as of now) isn't an option. Any other ideas?

Thanks for any help. I was surprised these are in this condition but who knows... the previous owner didn't take care of the car and every time I run into another issue it just makes me angry..

[targa80]

Do you have a copy of the schematic for the model year of the car? Isolating a electrical short in a circuit will require the schematic and a multimeter. Also having two long wires with alligator clips makes using the multimeter easier. Remove the circuit components i.e. fuse lights, switches, relays. With the battery disconnected do a point to point resistance test of each wire in the circuit and check the wire is not shorted to ground. If troubleshooting the circuit with a multimeter is not in your wheelhouse of capability then remove all of the components from the circuit. Connect the battery and install a new fuse and then reinstall one component at a time and check the fuse. Continue adding components until the fuse blows. Now you have isolated the short to just a portion of the circuit. Check for chafed wires at the component and repair if found. Replace the part and retest circuit. I would recommend you troubleshoot using the first method. The second method is not advised because of the hazard of stressing the circuit wiring under a shorted condition. The path you take will depend on your capabilities in using a multimeter and reading an electrical schematic.

[gerakroo]

The best start is to install the right fuses for each circuit, i see several ones that are way to big, for example for your left turn signal, the 9th fuse on the 10 pole fusebox ,and also for the licenseplate lights, the 7th fuse of your 8 pole fusebox. They are now blue (25 amps) but should be yellow (8 amps) instead You should test each circuit one by one. What year is this car ? look like a 1984 3.2 ? If you send us an email at info@kroonwireharnesses.com we can send you a pdf with a layout of the fusebox(es) showing each wire and where it should be connected. For some reason i cannot upload them here.

[Dpmulvan]

Rip it all out and start over. Never understood why people will restore a car and leave crap like that.
Previous owner should be kicked in the head. Might want to pull gauges and check dash for other surprises so your respray doesn’t end up extra crispy.

[famoroso]

Man, I really HATE seeing that type of stuff, especially poor wiring / electrical system hygiene.

It's tragic what these cars have had foisted upon them over the decades. I'm guilty of dubious modifications myself (albeit always wired properly / cleanly) back in the day / when I was a teenager. I think back to the ridiculous over the top stereo system that I installed in my '73 914 in the '80s. Apparently I needed: a pullout CD player head unit, six speakers, Bazooka bass tube (between the seats), active crossover and two amplifiers (in the frunk). It was great fun, but the thought of cutting up interior panels, drilling holes in sheetmetal, running all manner of wires / cables, and adding ~50 pounds of weight to one of these cars today? UGH!

My uncle is a Porsche factory trained master mechanic and, with very rare exception, he has always been a staunch "factory" guy, i.e. "just say no" to mods / non-factory parts. He always thought that all the things I wanted to do to my 914s as a teenager were the dumbest things he could think of. Good thing I didn't have the cashflow back in the day, otherwise my '74 914 would have ended up with a Chalon bodykit.

A while back, I started a thread to share these PO War Stories (but also PO gratitudes), but it never took. Who doesn't love a good war story or two?

Dear PO, I really wish you hadn't... / I'm glad you did...

[86 911 Targa]

For sure, you will need the schematics!!!!

I have the factory circuits for our '86
which should be very close to your '87.

pm me as needed.

Gerry

[x98boardwell]

PM'd to Gerry and emailed to Kroon wire.

Thanks for all the help and insight. Yes, seeing this stuff makes me mad as well.

I have removed all the gauges as I did an LED upgrade along with new fused line and dimmer switch so all of those looked like they have never been messed with.

Only when installing the lights did I start to have a closer look at fuse panel and found these issues. I will do what is needed for sure so this can be an enjoyable car for years to come rather than a fire risk.

Thanks again for the help!
Bryan

[x98boardwell]

To do this correctly I will need to remove the fuel tank as well. Only way to get the wires away from the fender behind the fuse panel. So, draining has commenced.

[86 911 Targa]

Factory schematics sent.

Best,

Gerry

[x98boardwell]

I have removed the fuel tank. There is now a ton of room to move around so that's much better! It appears as most of the wiring is original and the factory also used a form of electrical tape behind the fuse panel as there is a porsche part number sticker still on the harness stating year, part number, etc.. and that same tape runs behind the sticker.

A couple questions:
- I have a few misc. connectors that I'm finding. there is one which was never behind the fuse panel but was bent backwards and near the hood strut location between fender and brake booster.. There is a yellow and brown wire going to this connector
- The next connector is behind the fuse panel and only visible once the panel is moved away from the wall. It's a brown wire with a thin white line on it and nothing connected to it's female end.
- The last one was also behind the fuse panel and is a much larger red wire with white line and nothing connecting to it either.


I will have a look in the wiring diagrams but these come from the main harness so I'm unsure where they come from and could take sometime to narrow them down... if these are supposed to be loose or not connected to anything then maybe someone has asked this before and will have a quick answer.

Thanks for any help!

[86 911 Targa]

Have you checked your emails?

Gerry

[x98boardwell]

Gerry, yes I have and emailed you back. I've also printed all the docs and taped them together to make full pages.

I mentioned above that I would look at the wiring diagrams/schematics but since these come from the main harness and don't go anywhere I'm unsure how difficult it will be to find what they are for or what they would be for that maybe I don't have (meaning options on my particular car).. etc..

[86 911 Targa]

pm me your tel#.

did not receive your emails.

Gerry

[rjman]

I found the same loose wires.

Did you ever figure out what they are?


Thanks in advance.

RJM

[fintstone]

Which photo/wires...and what car (year/model)?