![]() |
An engine built by a known builder holds a lot more value than one put together in a driveway. No offense, it is just what it is.
I bought my SC 3 years ago, paid a bit high for it, but I wanted it. A completely new 915 later and I will most likely never see a break even return. My car all sorted (head studs and weeping carbs) would be lucking to fetch an honest $30K, with your engine it might get $40 at best. BaT is the last place to look for the common market... There are cars on here selling for nearly half what BaT would have you believe they are worth. Your $30K engine will not add $30K to your car either, it will factor in as it is a fresh engine and a hot one at that, but don't think you are making an investment. Divide your engine costs by half and you might get that back in a sale. If you paid cheap on the car then you are fortunate and can drop money on the engine without a loss. |
Quote:
Jack, congrats on a wonderful engine build, and the courage to do it yourself. Can't wait to see you out on the road. |
.....back to scheduled programming
The leak that started at 3 minutes into starting the engine was between the right cam tower and chain box and coming out pretty quick. My guess was the paper gasket and not the o-ring since it was pissing oil pretty quick and the cam is under more oil pressure right there than the o-ring. Tore into this morning after taking a much needed break from the car and I was correct. Going back together dry with an oem paper gasket, wurth true glide on an oem o-ring, and 10 Hail Marys. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627580801.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627580856.jpg |
Quote:
|
219 boys know how to get things done.
I expect a video of donuts by the time I get home. ~1900EDT |
I'm a Curil-T on the gasket, Molykote on the o-ring kinda guy, but I don't want to start a sealant debate. Lord knows your thread has been stepped on enough lately. Best of luck, Jack!
|
I’m doubfounded why cylinders 3/6 are cold and not running. Engine starts instantly without hesitation.
Compression is as follows. All cylinders leakdown at 5%. - #1 175psi - #2 175psi - #3 178psi - #4 175psi - #5 175psi - #6 175psi I triple checked plug wires and looked at everything with the cap off and it all lines up. Wires are good, has spark, fresh fuel, compression, and timing. Pulled the valve covers too and can’t see anything odd. TDC and valve lash line up for firing together with the plug wires for 3/6. At this point I think something is wrong with the JB racing dizzy. Idk what else could make these 2 cylinders not fire. Also shot starting fluid near the carb / intake manifolds thinking there was a vacuum leak and no dice. Cleaned the idle jets. Tried a second / new battery. I’m stumped. |
3 and 6 are opposing in the firing order- double check the plug wires?
Stick a timing light on the plug wires for those cylinders to see if they are firing? |
Yep, check each wire with timing light. Make sure you are actually firing the plug. If not, back track to wire connection at cap, then rotor to cap contact.
If you are firing the plug then make sure your carbs are setup right, open the idle mixture screws and see if it will fire, then check/clean passages for 3/6. Should be relatively simple to track down. |
Like I stated, I checked all 4 wires with a timing light and put both cylinder to TDC with the valve covers off and confirmed everything was correct with valve lash and the rotor was pointing in the right direction. I did not cross plug wires and triple check all that and the dizzy had the correct firing orientation labeled.
I did get the car running on all 6 cylinders. I took out the 60 idle jets for 3/6 and replaced them with 65 and turned the mixture in 3 out. I wanted to dump a ton of fuel in there to see if that was the issue. They finally got and I got to drive the car for the first time and start seating the rings! I am totally blown away by how quick this motor is. It’s seriously fast and total hoot to drive. Also the 915 is now perfect, shifts into 1st gear without hesitation while going 15mph, shifts 1-2 beautifully. Also the internal wevo gateshift makes this car shifter feel a bolt action rifle with none of that gimmicky shifter tower springs and housings, as the 915 slop really lies internally in the shift fork and dongle, not the tower. Videos to come soon! |
Congrats!
|
Congrats! I really want to try that internal wevo gate shift. I'm very curious about that.
|
:D:D:D
https://youtu.be/In5NfoFujVI <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/In5NfoFujVI" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
Rev limiter is set to 5k so theres still a lot on the table. I put 22/29 bars in and the car still squats like crazy under load.
|
Sounds good!
Great work! |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
About 120 miles on the engine and starting to dial some stuff in.
I tossed in 65 idle jets and it’s idling better than before. Definitely did not like 60/130 idle/IAC. Did a hot compression test today and cylinders were 185# across the board and 5% leak down. Drained the BR30 break in oil and refilled with Driven 15-50 break in oil. Planning to do another compression/leak down at 1000 miles, valve adjustment, and then start running VR1 again. Having a ton of fun fiddling with this car every day. Can’t wait for all the tuning to be dialed in. |
we need video
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:06 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website