Window Switch Repair

[na2ub]

I searched the archive to find no decent, inspiring switch repair thread, so ... I just successfully rebuilt my passenger window switch. I was finding it hard to justify spending $20 for a $5 switch, so I investigated further.

Note: This repair is NOT for the broken switch swivel "pegs." I believe there is some documentation regarding that type of repair that mentions replacing the pegs with pieces of nail, or alike.

My passenger switch had quit working and the only way I could use the passenger window was to use the driver-side switch for the passenger window, while at the same time, gently pushing on the passenger side switch.

To rebuild:

1) Pry the switch from the door panel with a small flat screwdriver. Use a piece of wood, etc., if you worry about scratching your leather (I did not). With the switch pryed out, make a note of the position / color of the attaching wires.

2) Detach the switch from the 5 wires and, once in hand, pry the face ring (actually rectangle) from the switch from the bottom / back. You will see 4 small gaps (2 each side) on the bottom of the ring. I managed to fit a small screwdriver in there to get it started. Then working the screwdriver around, finally got one side to detach. It seem that it is easiest to get one side, then the other.

3) Once you pry the retaining ring back, the switch comes apart. There are two plastic pushrods mounted on springs that reside in the "handle" of the switch, or the part you actually touch when using. One of these pegs was worn down considerably shorter than the other peg. THIS was the problem. It looks like it had melted due to use, but who knows.

4) I decided to replace the peg with a similar material, and used a piece of plastic dowel from a parts sheet of a plastic model (Porsche GT-1). I suppose anything would work, as long as it did not bind on the brass it was contacting. I rounded the tip (like the other peg) and whittled an smaller circumference on the other end for the spring to seat on.

5) Reassemble the switch, using the same one-side-at-a-time method to replace the retaining ring. Check for operation (clicks properly both ways now - before only clicked one way and "kinda" clicked in the other direction.

6) Reinstall using your wiring diagram that you made earlier, and enjoy!

I hope this helps someone. $20 is steep for a 10mm plastic dowell. If the plastic melts / wear again, I will try metal.

Doug

[Early_S_Man]

10 mm plastic dowel!!!

Those must be King Kong-sized switches from the Special Wishes program!

[soup dragon]

Good info Doug,my drivers door switch has given up the ghost and have got the drivers side panel off to reupholster it.
They want £16 in the uk for a switch (was gonna swap it for the drivers side passenger switch)

[oly]

na2ub,

Thanks for the thread, my switch is working fine again!

Anybody who is interested, here is some clarifying info for na2ub's step 2:

- "pry the face ring" = sliding the ring off in the direction away from the back (connector side) of the switch
- "4 small gaps (2 each side) on the bottom of the ring" = the 4 gaps that are on the forward and aft sides of the switch (as installed in the door), the 4 gaps that are on the top and bottom sides of the switch are NOT the gaps that you want

My contacts were dirty with a black film. Spinning a pencil eraser on them worked well to clean them.

[oly]

Two more good reasons to fix my old switch (P/N 911.613.621.02) instead of replacing it with a new switch (911.613.621.03) were that:
1. the new switch has a low quality feel to it; it clicks twice in each direction before it works instead of once in each direction like the old switch
2. the new switch does not look or feel like the old switch; the new one has a textured surface and the old one is smooth

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by na2ub

I searched the archive to find no decent, inspiring switch repair thread, so ... I just successfully rebuilt my passenger window switch. I was finding it hard to justify spending $20 for a $5 switch, so I investigated further.

Note: This repair is NOT for the broken switch swivel "pegs." I believe there is some documentation regarding that type of repair that mentions replacing the pegs with pieces of nail, or alike.

My passenger switch had quit working and the only way I could use the passenger window was to use the driver-side switch for the passenger window, while at the same time, gently pushing on the passenger side switch.

To rebuild:

1) Pry the switch from the door panel with a small flat screwdriver. Use a piece of wood, etc., if you worry about scratching your leather (I did not). With the switch pryed out, make a note of the position / color of the attaching wires.

2) Detach the switch from the 5 wires and, once in hand, pry the face ring (actually rectangle) from the switch from the bottom / back. You will see 4 small gaps (2 each side) on the bottom of the ring. I managed to fit a small screwdriver in there to get it started. Then working the screwdriver around, finally got one side to detach. It seem that it is easiest to get one side, then the other.

3) Once you pry the retaining ring back, the switch comes apart. There are two plastic pushrods mounted on springs that reside in the "handle" of the switch, or the part you actually touch when using. One of these pegs was worn down considerably shorter than the other peg. THIS was the problem. It looks like it had melted due to use, but who knows.

4) I decided to replace the peg with a similar material, and used a piece of plastic dowel from a parts sheet of a plastic model (Porsche GT-1). I suppose anything would work, as long as it did not bind on the brass it was contacting. I rounded the tip (like the other peg) and whittled an smaller circumference on the other end for the spring to seat on.

5) Reassemble the switch, using the same one-side-at-a-time method to replace the retaining ring. Check for operation (clicks properly both ways now - before only clicked one way and "kinda" clicked in the other direction.

6) Reinstall using your wiring diagram that you made earlier, and enjoy!

I hope this helps someone. $20 is steep for a 10mm plastic dowell. If the plastic melts / wear again, I will try metal.

Doug

Too much work to save $15 IMO! Four posts in 6 years - seems like others agree. I give an A for effort though.

[szyzygy]

I fixed mine tonight with the help of this thread. The passenger side would not go back up.

I took the switch apart like the OP said and cleaned everything out. One of the little white plastic nubs had melted a little, so it wasn't the same height as the other one. You can easily pull out the little white nubs, there are springs underneath. I made a little riser out of some spare plastic and put it under where the spring rests. Pretty ghetto, but it works.

I snapped her back together and reinstalled. Works perfectly now.

I would recommend using a little rubber band to hold down the metal flares around the outside when putting it back together. It was hard to do everything at the same time when snapping it back.

oh, and I had to super glue one of the little rocker bits on the side of the piece your fingers touch to activate the switch.

Also, these things cost $40 now, not the $15 mentioned before in this thread. So I just saved myself $40 tonight.

[na2ub]

Wow. 8 years later from my original post! Glad to see it helped someone.

[reachme]

This thread helped me rebuild my driver door, passenger window switch (I can close window again from driver side) but I’m adding some more detail. The new replacements look different and the quality is not the same so I wanted to rebuild one rather than buy and replace 3.

First taking off the faceplate the 30+ year old plastic was requiring more force than I wanted to give. It helps to understand what it looks like first to take it off undamaged and I did not see any pictures clear enough:


It helps to have something to squeeze both sides in, I used a small clamp . Then a flathead jewelry screwdriver inserted like the picture. Twist screwdriver 90 degrees in your hand and you will feel the light click as it comes free. do this on all 4 corners and it will preserve the ability keep the faceplate on tightly.


3. I had some corrosion on the tension braces that hold the switch into the door card on top and bottom. To remove this first disconnect the middle of the three arms with that flat head jeweler screwdriver by sliding it under and lifting.


Then slide the piece in the opposite direction to slide the other two off.


Remember to put the switch into a vice to squeeze it to get it back on again, mine was not possible to snap it on without. Also make sure the
got to get those 4 metal legs tucked under before putting the cover on.
Windows are all set for spring now

Also some other threads that were helpful on the rebuild:
Power Window Switch schematic
https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=26317&highlight=relay

Hope this thread continues to help

[JackMan]

@na2ub, ty for the thread. I fixed a window switch in my 944 a few years ago using your thread!

[BR-549]

Quick shout out to na2ub for starting this thread 16 years ago and others who have posted info. The passenger side switch on my 87 was running the window up but not down. I was able to take the switch apart and see that I had some schmutz on the contacts. A little electrical cleaner and I'm back in business. Again, this forum is a great help. Thanks.

Ken

[RSBob]

Great DIY thread.

[Bill Douglas]

thanks guys. One of my window switches has gone a little funky. One time in ten it doesn't quite work. I suspect a little corrosion on the inside. I've bookmarked this page.

[Mocker]

If you guys are balking at the price of a switch, just wait til you price out a new Porsche window motor.