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I have been having intermittent problems with my 84 for well over a year. Decided to dig into it deep today. Several mechanics have looked at the problem, swapped a switch here or there.. but no one was able to fix it.
I tested each switch, and I found some of the wiring was wrong/and loose. Validated the wiring, and crimped down the spade connectors to make sure nothing was loose. I was then able to put the window down, but not up (on passenger side) swapping the blue wires in the middle of the switch on the passenger side allowed me to put it up but not down. Looking at the wire layout, i decided that the runners between the switch must be the issue. I then swapped the red-black and red-white and reversing these allowed me to put the window down or up depending on the position of the wires (hope that makes sense) Next i did a continuity test on the red-white/red-black wires between the drivers and passenger door. One wire is bad! Running a jumper wire (just as a test) to replace the red-white wire returned all window switches to normal operation. Next I need to decide if I am going to replace the red-white wire or try to trace where its broken/damaged. I cant really follow the wire, so probably replacing it is the way to go. Anyone else need to do this? I assume a mouse munched it someplace |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Morrison, Colorado
Posts: 363
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I had my car at a "renewal" shop earlier this year. When I got it back, the car had shiney paint, renewed leather on the seats, shiney tires, and the windows did not work at all. I tried to check the connections, which they had terribly handled. Even after I put the right wires on the right connections, it did not work. Three days at the local wrench, John Eisenbud again!, they figured out that the little wires that connect to the switches fail on a regular basis and they had to splice new connections onto each of the wires. Now all the windows work and all is good with the universe. Check the continuity while fiddling with the wire as it might make a connection while unstressed, but when you hook them up to the switch and force it into position, the connection might be broken on one of the wires.
Good Luck.
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1984 3.2 Cab (now toy) 1975 911S (old toy) Mercedes E350 W4 (snow car) 2007 911 Turbo (water and air pumper) 2012 Panamera 4S (for the wife, I swear) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
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Best info on 911 electric windows i've found and thanks to this I've fixed them this evening - everything working perfectly. Used this to fix a 3.2 carrera.
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 9
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Registered
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Bumping this old thread because it just helped me get both my windows up and running after prior owner took out the wiring harnesses for both windows. Pelican forums saves the day again
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'79 930 turbo RoW - Oak Green Metallic - k27-7200 - Kokeln Intercooler - RarlyL8 headers/muffler - Leask WuR - Tial 46mm - Rebel racing bushings front/rear - ER Monoballs front/rear - ER adjustable spring plates - 29/23mm TBs - Wevo engine mounts - Rebel racing transmission mounts - Ruf speelines 17x9-10 '99 4Runner Sr5 |
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Vintage Owner
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If there was ever a need for a multiple pin connector, the back of these switches would top my list.
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84 Targa 70 914-6 73 914-6 2.7 conversion (sold) 75 GMC Motorhome |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 62
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Thank you Mysterytrain, great diagram, very easy to follow, saved me at least 2 hours. 1979 911SC
Quote: Originally Posted by Mysterytrain View Post I was attempting to help a fellow Pelican with a power window problem and in the process attempted to figure out how those nasty little switches worked. Armed with a Fluke meter I came up with the following: |
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The thread that keeps on giving..
Helped me with my speaker install - as I went through and corrected a red/white to red/black snafu from PO ![]()
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1981 911SC |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South Africa
Posts: 132
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I need some help. My passenger door will not close without slamming the door an few times. However it closes perfectly the first time if the drivers door is open or the passenger window is open.
I want to install a time delay relay using the door light switch as a trigger. When the door is open the trigger will lower the window for a few seconds (x) and when closing the door the window will close the window for x seconds. Which wire/s on the switch controls the up and down function movement ? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South Africa
Posts: 132
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Can someone point me to the location of the door switch wire inside the front hood. I need to tap into that wire. What colors am I looking for and where can I find it without undoing the tricky door switch ?
Thanks |
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Cr@pcan Rescuer
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Fantastic thread. Here's a question to add to this:
On each of the 3 photos: ![]() Is the correct orientation with the unused terminal pointing up for all 3 switches? Meaning, rather than rotating the switch body 180 degrees and shoving it back in the door card, if the window is going the wrong way, its time to take a closer look at the switches themselves or the way they are wired? Edit: Nevermind, per the diagram already provided below, the orientation of the unused terminal is UP. ![]()
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Jose - 1983 911SC Coupe Instagram: @joe_engineer 911 Build Blog: joe-engineer d o t c o m Last edited by 2jmotorsports; 01-09-2021 at 03:23 PM.. |
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