G50 problem - please help...

[Rick Lee]

So yesterday I did my first high perf. driving clinic and my car just kicked a$s. It performed flawlessly and I had a blast. But on just about the last lap, I was double-clutching into 2nd and could not find it! I got it, but had lost some revs by then. When I got back to the paddock I noticed my shifter was VERY sloppy and loose. Driving home, I had to shift very carefully and deliberately - almost as if I had a 915!

Before I get flamed, I did do a search on this. What happened to me was not some gradual wear, but rather an immediate break or failure of something. I didn't see a G50 shifter bushing kit in the Pelican catalogue. But it really feels like that's my problem. What do I need to buy, where can I get it and how tough is the install? I saw the Excellence article on this a while ago, but again, mine just happened very suddenly. So I don't think I just need to refresh it. Thanks.

[kstylianos]

Richard,

Not sure if the G50's have the shift coupler in the tunnel like the 915's, but if those plastic bushings crack, shifting will be sloppy/crappy. You banging away on the tranny yesterday could have very well caused those bushings to crack.

Also, possible looseness of the coupler itself would cause that. See if the coupler is secure on the shaft.

[KTL]

There's a few things that can fail in the shifter assembly.

#10 is the ball cup bushing. Ball wears the bushing and it cracks open or crumbles to pieces. It's rubbery plastic.

#3 is a plastic tube that can crack and allow a bunch of play in the shifter if it cracks at the bottom. If it breaks thru entirely the shifter will go completely dead.

#2 is a rubbery plasticky guide sleeve that can make for a sloppy shifter if it comes apart.

#16 is the whole coupler assembly and probably doesn't fail altogether as it's riveted together. This one is the easiest check. Lift up the carpet at the rear of the trans. tunnel and open the access cover. Should know right away if something is wrong in there.

[expat]

I swear the Carreras are so good that after all this time, they are still continuing to have syncronised problems (now thats build quality)....there seems to have been a rash of shifter problems in the last week or two starting with mine and continuing thru the rank and file of Pelicanites.

Richard,

I had exact the same problem after a great drive with my club the other week. On the way home I noticed the shifter became really sloppy and hard to get in gear. Got home and removed the console to look at the shifter mechanism. The bushing listed no 2 above had given up and shattered into lots of tiny fragments and one larger piece.

I replaced this and no more problem. Half hour job and now it fits nice and tight (hey married guys - you remember that )

At the same time I swapped two bolts (part 16c) on the flexible coupling with two standard bolts to see what would happen if I removed the slight give (sloppiness) there. Now my shifting is really direct and precise. I think I will swap back to the standard bolts as I'm not sure if there's any inherit problems with doing this

I posted a week or two ago about this - in relation to whether racers removed the flexible coupling but didn't get any replies and there seemed to no info on it that I could find.

Some six months prior I also replaced part 10 listed above, for much the same type of sloppiness. I would definitely replace both at the same time if I had known.

A tip if you need to replace part no 2 in the picture above. It shows a cutout facing upwards. It should in fact be turned downwards so that you can slide the shaft back into it when your putting it all back together again - you'll see what I mean when you do it.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Mark

[expat]

Oh - by the way Richard - mine happened real quick too (not gradual) and I bought a new bushing from the dealer pretty cheap (few bucks for each bushing).

Cheers
Mark

[Rick Lee]

Thanks. I'vr never taken my shifter apart and don't have my books here at the office. Is it an easy, parking lot job? Or a real PITA?

[expat]

Parking lot job as long as you have a few simple tools. Phillips head screw driver and a socket set should do it.

Seriously took me half and hour for the bushing. The ball cup was a little longer.

I have a basic undercover garage and simple tools - no work bench. Trust me you can do it. The only thing that will slow you down is removing the console. Thats just a bit fiddly.

Once thats out the way, if your doing the bushing, you've gotta remove the three 13mm bolts (#14 above) that hold the shifter mechanism onto the tunnel. You'll also need to undo the bolt that holds the shaft to the shifter (#19 above). Pull the mechanism upwards and away from the shaft. This gives you access to the bushing. The reverse the procedure.

Hope this helps

[expat]

Richard - do you have a stock shift knob? If you do you'll need a Allen key

[Rick Lee]

I have a Momo ball shifter knob. Why does that have to come off? I have no idea how to get it off. Also, is there a kit I need to buy? What's it called, part number? I really want to get this done this week, so I don't get stranded somewhere next weekend with a pretty girl in my car.

[expat]

Richard,

Mine is a Momo and if its like yours, it has a collar on the bottom than threads off. This exposes (three) small allen key grub screws. Loosen these off and the knob slides off the shaft.

Remove this to remove the console to get access to the shift mechanism underneath.

Do you want me to scan the procedure from the the Bentley? I think its also in 101 projects but I didn't look.

Cheers
Mark

[Rick Lee]

Thanks everyone. I got it all apart no problem and the ball cup bushing (#10 in the diagram) was the culprit. It was torn in two. I'll have another one tonight. What type of grease do I need to lube this with on reinstall? Thanks.