No doubt, but having your parts balanced and spin balancing the rotating assembly is just common sense. I think they used to say that an ounce of weight six inches from the center of a crank can make a 300 pound imbalance at 6000 RPMs. True or not, it makes an engine run sweetly and takes a lot of strain off of the rotating assembly.

If you have your engine apart, there is really no good reason not to do, it.

I agree 100%. I'm one of those that thinks pretty much everything else about a performance machine is secondary to outright horsepower and torque, so any and everything that increases both should be done (within reason).

I have a 2019 Mustang GT believe me the 911 can't beat it on the straight or in the corners. I have a 2020 F 150 with the 5.0. It goes nice but doesn't handle all that well.

The Stang has 460 horsepower. Please!!

Yeah baby Coyote power. And it handles like a rat in a sewer pipe.

Uhh... how slow is your 911, an ecoboost F150 runs 15-16 sec 1/4 mile times? Anyhow, why are poo pooing somebody trying to build a hotter flat 6 motor, if anybody here wanted big horsepower in a big car it's down at any Ford/Chevy dealership, yet here we are..

All Nick was doing was simple chain yanking/forum banter, for fun - I guarantee that he luvs him some of the flat 6 turbo pooowweaaahhhhh!

The best tricks for air cooled motors are done by Robert Linton, ruf, and Singer.

It's called Ba** busting. If you ever worked in a shop you'd know. Back in the 70's working in a shop with a bunch of guy's was a blast then Human Resources came along.

Ahh.. I take it all back then :D

Yes HP is great and high RPM's sound wonderful, but. Engines like those in the 911S make great HP but at high revs and are flat until 5-6000 rpms. Jeff's research and the cam he came up with was just what I wanted too. Every shift from 6500-7200 on my engine drops right into the high torque range. Even if I'm just driving the twisties up in the hills I'm always in the torque. To use the HP your engine develops you must get it up to the redline, on the other hand to get into the torque (on Jeff and my engines) all you have to do is get it into the 4000 rpm range.

Just my personal preference.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1593124229.jpg
Shhhhh... Don’t tell anyone

Hi new here 1978 911 SC Targa, Nick Mc
I have read a little about cryogenic treatment of engine parts to improve performance as well as ceramic coating of piston tops for heat dissipation and reduce carbon build up, no experience. I have a question about shift lever location and length I,m 6'21/2" tall and I have to reach forward to get into 3rd and 5th. Is there adjustment for this a short guy owned before or do I need a longer shift lever stock or wevo,jwest ? Already have a dished steering wheel momo and eccentric wheel adapter if needed so I don't have to splay my legs out to clear the steering wheel

Loosen the pinch bolt on the end of the shift rod, where it goes into the shift coupler. You just need to loosen the bolt and move the shaft slightly fore or aft. Don't take it off of the splines, just slide it.

All in no out
 

All you braniacs.What about the exhaust.I see all these great builds with ITB AND all the cool stuff.What about they exhaust?You build this great engine and then you just choke it off by putting a crap exhaust on?Just blows my mind.I have guests for dinner.I will respond manana.Ciao Fred

exhaust
 

I will give you a picture manana.Ciao Fred

For my 3.4 build...it has PMO throttle bodies on the intake, Eisenmann heat exchangers on the exhaust....DC35 cam.

Should breath just fine....and I have a brand new set of SSI's in the box if the Eisenmann's don't work out.

Dennis

How about helium in the tires to reduced sprung weight? just kidding

Question about polishing the heads and pistons- don’t they just end up covered in carbon eventually, or does the polishing help stop that or slow it down so the extra time/money is worth it?

I think this thread needs to discuss modern adaptations to old school tricks. There are so many ways to improve upon what the factory did 40+ years ago - and that should be the discussion.

Where is the discussion about engine coatings to reduce friction and control heat, modern engine management for ignition and fuel control, flow dynamics for our 2 valve heads, (as Fred mentioned) modern headers for resonance, (as Jeff mentioned) modern cam profiles, etc?

Making more engine power is just part of the equation. What about matching gear ratios and tire sizes to torque curves to optimize acceleration. BTW look up Bill Verburg's thrust curves if you want to know more.

Consider that all of the good car builders will maximize the entire drivetrain package.