Crank / Pully seal removal

My 78SC is on jack stands cooling down. As I understand it, to remove the pully seal I need to do the following:
1. Unbolt the cross member;
2. Remove the muffler;
3. Remove the sheet metal from around the pully;
4. Lower the engine a coupple of inches?
5. Place transmission in 5th and engage parking brakes;
6. Work like hell to get the pully nut off (standard counter-clockwise removal);
7. Remove the old seal with srew driver;
8. Lubrcate new seal and tap into place;
9. Reassemble.

Am I missing anything. Do I need to remove the cross member and lower the motor? Or can I get access to the pullyn ut and seal without doing this? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Paul
78SC Targa

I did that job last summer. Sounds like you have all of the bases covered.

My only input would be in taping in the seal, make sure you have something that applies pressure uniformly to the entire seal, I used a socket, and just taped, it went right in. I have been able to just tap in seals with a flat body hammer before, but that one did not want to cooperate until I used a socket.


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GT911
GordonTaylor@ev1.net
'81 911 SC very very fun
'84 BMW 318i very very economical

[GH85Carrera]

OK, I am pulling up a 19 year old thread.

My pulley end seal is leaking on my 1985 Carrera.



The rest of the engine is clean. So in the steps above are all that are needed? I did a search on the subject and found very few threads about it.

I plan to first clean the area top and bottom as much as possible first. I have a scissor lift, so getting the car in the air is easy. After I get the parts removed and out of the way I will remove the cross member, and I guess support the engine with my floor jack so I can lower it a few inches.

Am I missing any other steps? Anyone know a better thread that details the steps needed to R&R that pulley end seal?

[Wazook84]

Pulley Seal Replacement - Step by Step for dummies


I just did this repair a few weeks ago, using the above post.
Be VERY careful not to damage the end of the crank, no nicks,scratches,gouges, etc.
I drilled 2 1/8" holes in the old seal and ran screws into the holes to pry against. Actually I used an old screw type dent puller for body work, but others have used screws.

easy job as long as you're careful around the crank end.

Good luck,
Scott

[GH85Carrera]

Scott, thanks for that link. It shows part of what I was wanting to review. I do NOT plan to drop the engine all the way out of the car. I want to replace the seal while only dropping the engine down 4 inches or so.

With the engine all the way out access is a lot easier. I am hoping to find a more detailed post that the 9 steps in the first post. I have the Bentley manual and Wayne's 101 projects book. I just was hoping to find a longer thread about the process.

I just like to know as much as possible about a project before I get covered in greasy dirt and realize I need one special tool or gizmo.

Any opinions on which seal is the best to go back in? I have the Porsche seal in hand but if there is a better one I would prefer to use that instead.

[GH85Carrera]

Phew.

OK, I am in the middle of my seal replacement. Some comments and tips. For my 1985 Carrera getting the muffler off was not bad, but the old muffler seal is toast. I have one in stock, but I recommend when you are ordering parts for the seal replacement order a muffler gasket, (dirt cheap) and more important, order the o-ring for the intermediate shaft that is right there and just two bolts to remove and swap the o-ring.

My biggest challenge so far was getting the engine mount bracket that goes around the pulley off. The bolts all came out easily, BUT the one nut on the top right is impossible to get a wrench on with the tools I had on hand.



This is the stud after I finally got the nut off. The problem is all my ratchet drivers are too "thick" and with the 15mm socket it simply did not fit into position. I had to run to the tool store and get a new ratchet, and socket that are both rather narrow from the back of the ratchet to the tip of the socket. It just dropped onto the nut, and off it came.

That stud is also a pain in neck in that the bracket has to move over the stud to come off. The factory A/C compressor mounting bracket prevents the engine mount bracket from coming off of the stud. I had to loosen the bolts for the AC bracket to get enough wiggle room to get the bracket off.

To get the 10mm nuts off of the sheet-metal, do yourself a favor, and get a 1/4 inch drive and some LONG extensions and a 1/4 swivel to drive the 10mm 1/4 drive sockets.

Oh, also have a nut retrieval system handy. I had to fish out a lot of them with a magnetic tipped rod.

[fred cook]

The only other thing I could think of to do would be to disconnect the shift linkage shaft to make certain that nothing there gets bent if you accidentally lower the engine too far.

[Marc Bixen]

Wazook84, you don't need to drill holes. At about the 1 o'clock area of the #8 bearing there is a notch. Place a flat blade screwdriver in there, strike it with a soft hammer, bend the outer seal, then take the screwdriver and pry the seal the rest of the way our.
As for other items, "while you're in there", don't forget to replace the intermediate shaft cover seal. Very late SC's and later, it is an o-ring, most SC's and earlier it is a gasket. Also, most of the later pulley bolts are "durlock" and require replacement each time.

[proporsche]

all of the Marc reco..plus make sure you get Elring seal not a victor R. the one you need looks like this...not all brown..
Ivan

[tirwin]

I’m going to be pulling the motor in my car soon. (probably after it cools off some) I am really glad to see this because this is on my to-do list.

Ivan, I don’t think your picture posted.

[tirwin]

Glen, would a ratcheting box wrench work for that nut?

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by tirwin

Glen, would a ratcheting box wrench work for that nut?

No, but a deep offset wrench will work.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by tirwin

Glen, would a ratcheting box wrench work for that nut?

Tim,

These are home-made tools used to make the job more convenient and easier. As you spend more time working on your car, you will encounter some difficulties using conventional tools. And will necessitate looking for the right tool to get the job done.





Tony

[GH85Carrera]

On the left is the ratchet and socket set I bought in 1970. So 50 years later it still works fine, and the chrome is long worn off from lots of use. It has never broken or failed me at all.

On the right is the new socket and ratchet I bought. I am a self confessed tool junkie, so buying a new tool is not a problem. I got it at Home Depot. It fits right onto that nut and made short work of removing it.



This is a better photo of the offending nut. I tried every tool I had, and nothing would go on. I have the ratcheting box end wrenches, and every combination of tool I had and I have a decent set of tools. The space around the nut is tight, so my standard box end would not go on, and it is recessed into that bracket. I tried the local Harbor Freight, and all they had was entire sets of sockets, and none were short profile.

The good news it is right in front, and you can go see if you can get a tool on that nut before you ever start the project. If not, get what you need before you are stuck like I was. One real sign of an old geezer like me, is going to Home Depot all sweaty, and rather dirty does not bother me one tiny bit.

Home Depot sell individual sockets and tools, or sets. I also picked up a couple of spare 10mm 1/4 inch drive sockets. Those always seem to vanish into thin air.

[proporsche]

ok here it is ...elring front pulley seal

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by proporsche

ok here it is ...elring front pulley seal

Why not the Porsche branded one from a dealership. Beside the fact it is 30+ bucks and not 10?

[tirwin]

What was that about any excuse to buy a tool? I have no idea what you’re talking about.

Thanks for the pic, Glen. That clarifies the problem better for me.

Ivan, I used the same brand when I replaced the rear main seal a few years ago. Many reports that the OEM seals leaked. I haven’t had a drop since. Assume it’s the same/similar for this seal.

[tirwin]

Tony, are those bolts that are fitted into the ratchet-side of the socket? Are they welded?

[tirwin]

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by tirwin

Tony, are those bolts that are fitted into the ratchet-side of the socket? Are they welded?

Tim,

The bolts have been grinded to fit the 3/8” square drive of the sockets and snuggly mounted. I probably have less than 1/4 of your tools in my tool box. Oddly, I got 5 engine stands and 5 engine yokes (P-201). Have you tried engine rebuilding? It is addictive.

Tony