how to change the oil hose behind the oil tank filling hole?

[hpmad]

Hello,

I have a 1980 911 targa...

Behind the oil tank filling "hole" (where the dipstick is), there is a hose which connects somewhere behind the CIS stuff (I think)...

This host is broken at the oil tank side...

Does anyone know what is the part that I need to buy to fix it, and most importantly, how to replace it? Since the motor side connection is behind a lot of stuff, I have no clue how to disconnect the old hose/reconnect the new one!

is there a schematics where it is shown online? I have not found any...


Thanks for any pointers...
Cyrille

[hpmad]

picture of the offending part in red...

[yelcab1]

93010739410

that is the part number

[GH85Carrera]

The how is going to be a pain, but nothing overly difficult. Remove the air box, and you should have access to see the fitting. Likely it is a typical hose clamp.

[Mark Salvetti]

That is the hose to the crankcase breather connection. You're lucky you have a 1980 where the hose is two parts. The other end connects way in the back of the engine. Search "triangle of death" - lots of oil leak potential back there.

Anyway, in your case the hose is in two parts. You should be able to feel your way around and find where it is spliced to the length of hose that goes to the crankcase breather. Should be a hose clamp.

Mark

[boyt911sc]

Listen to Mark. Somewhere along the breather hose is a metal sleeve that connects it to the second section. Do not remove the airbox in this case. You probably need to clean the hoses and inspect the condition of the section connected to the crankcase breather cover.

Tony

[john walker's workshop]

The crankcase end is usually rock hard if it's old. A hose clamp may not be able to tighten and get it to seal. Sometimes that hose is one piece. Then you can cut and sleeve it and attach the upper section. Not an easy job to replace the whole thing.

[mike sampsel]

Lots of advice above from those who know what they are doing (Mark, Tony, and John).
If you do not have an endoscope camera yet, give it some thought. Mine cost 36 dollars and is the best $36 I ever spent to work on my car. If you are a little forgetful, or get interrupted like I do, wife comes out to ask about the weather while I'm installing wrist pin clips for example, the endoscope can really help you verify all is well (or not).

Just a thought

[hpmad]

Thanks guys!

As always this community is extremly useful and reactive!

I have ordered the parts, I do have an endoscope camera and will let you know how it goes!

Cyrille

[hpmad]

Hello again,

Well my hose seems to be a single peice :-( however, the engine part seems OK enough...
Any advice on cutting the existing hose and splicing just the offending end?
The hose is around 15 year old...

Cyrille

[Flat6pac]

You’ll want the 2 clamps, the nipple, and a length of formed hose that you can cut from, new hose would work. Cut as needed
Bruce

[JSV798]

Is this where a partial engine drop would give access?

[hpmad]

Hello,

I am sure that a partial engine drop would help... But I am not sure that I feel up to the task...
I have skills and tools, but not enough tools to hold the engine in place, and I don't feel that lucky!

Cyrille

[GH85Carrera]

You will want at least two very sturdy jack stands on the rear torsion bars. Get the car up as high as possible and safe. Then put a floor jack with a large block of wood or a telephone book or catalog as a pad for the floor jack and the engine.

Read up on the procedure for removing the muffler. You will likely need a new muffler gasket. Pull the muffler, and then just put the jack under the engine, and remove the engine mount bolts. Lower the engine a little to make room needed to get to the hose. Not more than a few inches or you will bend the shift rod.

Some "while you are in there" things, look carefully at the triangle of death for oil leaks. It is a good time to replace the oil pressure sender if it is leaking or the thermostat o-ring and any other hoses you can get to. Replace all hoses they look or feel old.

If it sounds like too much to tackle, don't be afraid to just hire a pro to do it and be a checkbook mechanic.

[MichaelSJackson]

I've gotten back there without the partial engine drop and using a mirror on a wand. But I have small hands and gobs of patience. Back of my hands were shredded by the end.

Do the partial engine drop. I didn't need to remove my muffler to do this. Nor did I need to get the rear end as high as possible, because you're not dropping the engine, just letting it sag at the back end to get the access needed.

Disconnect the shift coupler. Don't leave it attached while doing this. There are good write-ups on the procedure. It is not like you're dropping the engine.

I've used the partial engine drop to get easy access to the starter, removed the CIS induction and look for leaks in the triangle. Might help when adjusting the valves? Particularly #6. (Small hands only help so much.)