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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 3,115
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I'm replacing my windshield and I have a few questions
I'm finally getting around to taking care of some bubbling in my windshield channel and there are a couple of other things that are logically done at the same time by a local shop that is going to pull the windshield and dash, fix he channel, and repaint the cowl panel I can live with my cracked dash, but since the windshield is coming out anyway I might as well replace it, and a recovered brown dash is arriving to me today. the windshield is old and pitted and is delaminating a bit on the edges, so that's getting replaced too.
I took a look at a few windshield threads but don't much sense of whether one choice or is much better than another. For instance, referring to a vendor mentioned by a Pelican in a recent thread, there are three options here, one of which is much less than the others: https://koolkatzautoglass.com/products/1965-1984-porsche-911-912-windshield-sigla-made-in-england-brand-new?_pos=5&_sid=00a07d172&_ss=r https://koolkatzautoglass.com/products/copy-of-1965-1984-porsche-911-912-windshield-sigla-made-in-england-1?_pos=7&_sid=00a07d172&_ss=r https://koolkatzautoglass.com/products/1965-1984-porsche-911-912-windshield-oem?_pos=1&_sid=00a07d172&_ss=r Do I need to spennd 500-600 on a windshield, or is most anything I can find fine? I've followed recent threads about the redesigned URO seal. Previously I didn't think I'd consider anything other than the OE seal, but this one seems to be OK. Any others of y'all used the new URO seal with success? Can I reuse the beading between the cowl and fender? Finally, is it necessary to replace the trim molding? My car is a 1980 SC, so it's black. It strikes me as something that can be reused if you're careful with it, but I don't know whether this is really delicate or if you have to brutalize it before you need to replace it. thanks, David
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL Last edited by Otter74; 11-10-2020 at 09:04 AM.. |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Denver
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Do I need to spennd 500-600 on a windshield, or is most anything I can find fine? No. Unless you are doing a restoration that would require original. The aftermarket stuff is just fine.
Can I reuse the beading between the cowl and fender?. They will probably damage it and new is cheap and nice looking. They make thin which yours should have and thick from the later cars. I think thin looks better. Finally, is it necessary to replace the trim molding? No. If yours is faded, you can refinish it. Whether it's new or your old stuff, it will have to be shaped and straightened on install. It shouldn't be destroyed during removal. Let someone else chime in on the seal or search the threads on them. They have and continue to be a major source of problems. Quote:
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Waynesboro, Virginia
Posts: 186
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Let me tell you about the seal first. I had a 911 windshield installed a few weeks ago. I ordered both the Porsche OEM seal and the URO seal. I tried to research as you are doing, so I figured I'd let the windshield installer decide which he wanted to use so I ordered both. The added benefit was if one got messed up in the process I'd have a spare there ready to go.
The installer, who is very experienced, compared the URO seal and OEM seal. He opted for the OEM seal. It went in just fine, but sunk in a bit at the corners and had to be worked by hand to get the seal to overlap onto the body, but now has settled in just fine. The URO seal would not have had that problem due to the sheer volume of seal itself. The installer was a little concerned that the URO wouldn't hold the "J hook" of the windshield trim as securely as the OEM seal would. He showed me the lip that holds the trim and there was a noticeable difference, but he said either would probably be OK but he liked the look of the OEM seal a bit better The OEM seal was bought from our host. It was about $165 so quite pricey. The URO seal was very inexpensive by comparison. If you decide to go with the URO seal, I have a brand new unused one that I will sell you for $20 plus shipping! On the windshield itself. My car is very original and such things matter to me, so I opted for the slightly tinted Sigla branded windshield though it was maybe $300 more than other choices. The glass is excellent and looks great. A negative on the Siglas available now: if your car has a tinted band at the top, I think the Sigla windshields with that band are out of stock about everywhere. Kool Katz glass was quick to ship and the packaging was excellent, shipping reasonable, I think $129 for my windshield. Other suppliers quoted over $300 just for shipping On the windshield trim, it can be removed carefully and reused, no problem. No reason to replace unless yours are already messed up. Good Luck! |
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I purchased Sigla glass from a local supplier and it fit just fine, not sure where it was made. My understanding is URO redesigned the seal awhile back and comments since have been favorable. Pelican should have all new inventory by now.
Careful removing the molding and don't bend it any more than necessary.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grapevine, TX
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Remove the glass, seal and trim simultaneously, then remove the trim from the seal. This will keep the trim from getting bent out of shape during the removal process.
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If you cut the old seal to pull the windshield the trim comes off without too much trouble. I used a euro trim satin black on mine and it has held up for 7 years so far. The issue with the corners of the seal on Porsche branded seals was overcome by putting cord on the edge of the glass inside the seal on the corners and making sure trim is straight and installed before installing windshield then carefully bumping corners out so flap covers the opening. There are threads showing hardwood wedges being used to hammer corners out to cover gaps.
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To remove my window trim, i used a fishing line under the trim and slowly pull it towards you and it will lift the trim without springing it. Trick is to just pull it towards at the top and work it around
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pop the shield out in one go. have a table set up ready to lay on due to cost and getting stone chips quick on the autobahn I'm at my second China FUYAO glass at EUR -200 shipped to me. gren died glass with top darkened stripe. not polished from inside (thats why so cheap). but they do the job. they have a good fitting contour and have the correct thikness for the seal. I'd probably get my third of these when needed.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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FWIW, I just used the Uro on the front.
The Uro is thicker and less pliable than OEM, the lip on the inside is shorter. The combo lead to some small high spots on the interior once the seal was installed. No problems with installing/holding trim or corners though. |
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My seals did lnot cover the corners i had to use a thin piece of wood that i cut a radius on the end. With that between the window and seal i used a small dead blow hammer to work the seal to the corners
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when I install mine, I like to set it up kinda floating… when you pill the string at the top you immediately notice if it has to go down a little or falls in place. at that moment you massage it down a bit and do the final move. never had an issue with falling seals at corners.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
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Thanks for these replies. I'll get whatever windshield is reasonably priced, probably the OE seal, and I'll pass the tips on to the shop. They've worked with 911s before but they're not a Porsche place. Just got the dash today so I'm happy to be able to get started.
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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-Mark B. Hardware Store Engineer 1988 911 - 3.6 1999 SL500 - Gone 1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone 1993 RS America - Gone Last edited by GG Allin; 11-12-2020 at 01:36 PM.. |
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I’m using a place called Mancuso in Glenview, presumably not far from you (I’m on the NW side of the city.) When I bought the car in 2015 there was some minor bubbling in the channel at the base of the windshield. Since I drive the car in anything but snow/salt, and drive it a lot, it’s something I wanted to address eventually. Since the car has a tired windshield and a cracked dash, it made sense to me to do all three together. Car has a ten-foot paint job on it dating to the ‘90s so just repainting the cowl and windshield frame is good enough for me. I expect the whole thing to run me around $3k for bodywork and paint, new windshield and molding, and replacement dash. In my looking this week I’ve seen windshields for 500-600 and windshields for around 200-250, the latter of which is fine. The shop is going to find a windshield for me - I should have a quote in a few days.
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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That's very close and good to know. I'm in Des Plaines. I want whoever does mine to have done them before. The shop that reinstalled the one in my car cracked it. They warned me it could happen due to its age. It was the original one to the car someone had previously removed.
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-Mark B. Hardware Store Engineer 1988 911 - 3.6 1999 SL500 - Gone 1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone 1993 RS America - Gone |
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