Back with a question, I’ve copied and marked up a photo in this thread:

Your washer bottle inlet hose looks great and different than the Boxster OEM hose as best I can tell (part no. 996.528.605.00).

Did it come with your washer bottle?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1630185270.jpg

That hose comes in the kit and will be cut to appropriate length

+1

Hope my questions keep others from making my errors:

I disconnected my relay in the smugglers box, thinking it was no longer used.

I see in your photo here, I was in error.

Is it still used with the new install?
You should charge admission.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1630786009.jpg

The relay circled in red in the picture below is the relay you circled in red in the picture above. Granted the original AC fan switch controlling the original evaporator fan has been completely removed from the relay switch circuit but I kept the relay because the coil was tied into the starter/ignition starter switch and fuse 11 &12 and I decided not to mess with it. If you have removed it, it may still be ok.

The relay circled in blue in the picture below is located at the fuse panel and controls power to the front belly condenser fan motor.

The black/white connector T4b is marked in yellow and this is where I kept the green wire to control the front belly condenser fan relay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1630790967.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1630791233.jpg

Thank you Pat for the clarification. I believe I determined you kept the relay on Niditz1 thread post 9. I discovered Bentley AC diagram on page 970-12 shows the wires for the relay, so I can easily add it back in. It’s a funny Audi/VW relay.

One can find additional info on Pat’s method of tying the belly pan fan to the CR fan at post 17 here

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1099095-adding-classic-retrofit-ac.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631214840.jpg
This part I don't quite get. Why did you kept part 911.573.181.00 and blocked all except one outlet? If I have understood correctly you could have just bought 35mm/30mm (OD/ID) tube about one meter long and taken that directly behind the bow tie vent?

I kept the bottom piece #10 that is in the red circle. I closed off the large opening on the #10 fitting because it is no longer connected to the original evaporator in the smugglers box. The two small outputs on #10 feed the bow tie and the passenger side foot well. The top piece #7 is too big to reinstall with the new CR evaporator/blower assembly so I came up with a jeri-rig solution. Please let me know if you are able to use the #7 piece with the CR blower installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631216446.jpg

The parts used for the top feed from the evaporator/blower was provided by another pelican to replace my jeri-rig setup in the below pic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631216812.jpg

On factory AC installation one of the small outputs is for bow tie and other for right side vent. Bow tie output is even restricted to about 20mm.

But why or how you have redirected the other foot well? I believe you get passanger side foot weel covered through the blend valve?


#7 will not fit with CR AC

Ok, let me try to explain how my car was setup for factory air.
Item #10 supplied air to the bow tie and at the same time supplied air to the passenger side ac vent by routing a small hose through the passenger footwell along the back of the glove box to the side AC vent. Also, their was an existing small metal duct that was located in the passenger side frunk behind the hinge that was capped off.

In my case, I removed the foot well hose from behind the glove box and allowed the #10 output to feed cold air to the passenger foot well. I then used the passenger side small output on the CR evaporator/blower to supply cold air to the uncapped small duct on the passenger side frunk behind the hinge. I added a small hose from that metal duct in the cabin passenger side behind the glove box into the passenger side ac vent.

I hope this explains what I did to my car to get the AC ducts setup.

I did exactly the same with the passenger side dash vent.
Bow tie is no longer supplying the passenger dash vent.
Some pictures of my adaptations for center vent on this page here post 312 or so:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/621680-finally-back-game-16.html

Pat and Dennis

Some good detail on the “secret” metal capped tube on the passenger side frunk. I checked it with a flashlight and inside, it’s a few inches from the passenger side vent, how nice. My cap is pretty much worthless, but still there. This is a tidbit I was completely unaware of. Thanks for the clarification.

Thanks Pat and Dennis. Now I understand a bit better how your systems are set up.

targa80 set up: Targa SC 1980 originally with factory AC
-full CR AC system
-no heat
-tinted windows
ducts as per manual except the following changes;
--both lower 60mm outlets blocked towards blend valves
--extra upper 60mm to bow tie and passenger footwell
--fresh air blocked
--AC wrapped with R-6 insulation

timmy2 set up: Targa SC 1978 originally with factory AC
-full CR AC system
ducts as per manual except the following changes;
--Extra upper 60mm to bow tie and passenger footwell
--fresh air partially blocked


Here are some pictures from my cars:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631296102.jpg
I actually thought that previous owner had done the right side vent routing by himself. To me this looks like someone had just drilled the hole, routed the hose and tied it with zip tie and had for some reason not used the same original routing as in my SC. But I was wrong, factory had done that. 😊

I wonder why factory did that? They could have done the same kind of outlet for the right side as they used for the left side
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631296246.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631296202.jpg

I missed the no heat part of the install, is this the case with Targa80’s install, no heat?

I have not used heat in my car for at least 25 years because I never drove the car in the winter when I lived in NY. Now that I am retired and live in Florida I still see no need for using heat. Based on that I removed the blend valves and the added “T” connectors completely to help uncluttered the frunk area where the evaporator/blower/ducts are located. I do have the option of running the heat ducts to the defrost vents if at some point in time I decide I need it.

Hey, I'm late to the party...What did you use for the 40mm and 60mm hoses for the hvac ducting? The instructions say to use Webasto, but I can't find any 40mm hoses here in the USA.

Aircraft Spruce has ducting for various temp ranges:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ap/ducting.html

It's where a lot of us get heater tubing.

Find on Amazon. Pretty solid/stout. No it's not rubber but it is stout, light weight and has relatively smooth inside surface for keeping static pressure low. Used 2 - 42mm lengths and 4 - 60mm lengths. 1986 coupe with heat.

Search Amazon for:

CALIDAKA 42/60/76mm Preheater Hose Air Inlet Pipe Air Duct Drain Hose Car Heater Duct Vent Warm Air Outlet for 2000 W or 6000 W Air Heaters Flexible Aluminum Ducting Foil

And (60mm)

Birmingfive 2.4-Inch Air Duct, 3.2-Feet Flexible Aluminum Ducting Foil Car Heater Duct Vent Warm Air Outlet For Webasto(Black)

My car had dealer installed A/C.
That is why I have the 2 selector sliders on the top row of the heater controls as per non A/C cars. Fan speed for fresh air motor is independent of the top slider position.
Same setup as the original car the system was designed around. Other than being LHD.

Hello Pat
I have been looking for pictures of the temperature sensor installations and I noticed that the cabin temperature sensor seems to be in a wrong place in this picture of yours. Have you corrected this?
My understanding of the correct placement for the cabin temperature sensor (yellow) is in the short connection between the T-piece and the blend valve.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646900572.jpg