Alternator in SITU comment
 

Fabulous work here, really impressive, should have expected such, still great work and documentation Targa80, I enjoyed the journey!

You might have interest in post #51 by spuggy here (in concert with the suggestions herein on routing the new massive cable from starter to the shroud):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1066182-classic-retrofit-lightweight-electric-c-group-buy-3.html

Day 17,

I am finally done with this project.

Let me start by saying that Jonny at Classic Retrofit support their product 100% and responded to all of my questions with solutions and recommendations.

I have worked on almost all of my cars ac systems since the early 1970’s. This includes replacing parts drawing a vacuum and charging the system using gauges and the small cans of Freon that you buy at local parts stores. All of those systems had belt driven pumps without an ecu controlling it.

Classic Retro does not recommend that you charge the system by the little cans. They recommend it be done by a professional with the machine that forces the freon into the system before you apply power. Well as DIYer I hear the recommendation offered and then do what I want with the hope of avoiding the additional cost of a pro doing the charging of the system.

A lesson learned, the best I could get the system to take from the small cans was about 25 psi on the high side and no more. The compressor will not draw enough suction on the low side to pull any additional freon from the small cans. The good news was that I had a leak on the high side connector on the compressor that I could hear leaking. I thought I was very careful to lubricate the O-ring with pag oil and insert the connector evenly. Unfortunately I still pinched and damaged the O-ring. I replaced the O-ring and tried again to charge the system. I can now say with confidence that this system must be charged by a machine and CANNOT BE DONE BY THE DIYer in your garage or by a shady tree.

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At the local shop, they retrieved the Freon, ran a vacuum and charged the system to 650g. Classic Retro stated I needed 650g of freon which is higher than the number in the manual because I kept the front condenser from the old system.

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The system is up and running blowing air at 39 degrees from the center vents. The mod I did in the frunk and smugglers box to keep the footwell bow tie center vent and the passenger side footwell vent worked and applies cold air to the footwell. Unfortunately my wallet is lighter by just under $150 but was worth it to finish the job. Adding up all the cost I’m just under $6K and the money was well spent on reliable AC, upgraded charging system and a better window washing system.

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This is a system that I would highly recommend to any 911 owner who want cold ac and also declutter the engine compartment. As a DIYer I found it to be enjoyable to accomplish knowing that it is not just a plug and play system. There are installation decisions that you have to make if you do the work and it can get frustrating at times.

1. Do I install a full or half system. (Full system)
2. What size alternator do I install. (I went with the 175 amp)
3. Do I add the boxer window washer bottle relocation kit. (I did )
4. Where do I mount the compressor in the smugglers box or the front left side of frunk. (I used the smugglers box)
5. Where do I put the dryer in the wheel well or the smugglers box. (Smugglers box)
6. Do I add a second condenser or use the old front condenser. (Old front condenser added)
7. Do I want to remove the clock to add a front vent. (Kept the clock)
8. How to use the existing bow tie vent by making custom ducting.
9. Where to locate the power switch. ( mine is where the old ac temp switch was located in the console)
10. Where to tie in the control electrical connections (switched and unstitched). (I had three empty fuse locations that I used for control power)
11. How to route the low and high freon lines and where to locate the charging ports. (Smugglers box)

There is only one other DIYer car project I did that was a little more challenging circa 2001.

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Same car circa 2020.

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Hey Pat, that is great news! Thank you for the systematic approach, constructive feedback and great documentation here.

We were so impressed we wrote a little blog about you and your car!

https://www.classicretrofit.com/blogs/news/retaining-and-re-using-the-original-porsche-a-c-condenser-in-a-twin-condenser-install

Jonny,

Thanks for the great products and the excellent support. The write up is a pleasant surprise. Hopefully, this thread will help others in their decision to install the electrocooler into a LHD SC.

Congrats, Pat! - Great thread, great execution.

Jason

Day 18,

Well in my last post I said I was done with this project and I am except one thing was bothering me. While I was getting other things done before putting the frunk carpeting in I noticed the drain hose was kinked at both drains.

The kit comes with a drain hose and two 90 degree and one Tee plastic connectors. I connected the drain hose to the two drains and tied them to the tee connector. From the tee connector I used the two elbows to route the drain line down through the smugglers box to the ground.

The spacing between the drain holes and chassis is tight and it puts a kink in the hose.

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To fix the problem I acquired two more 90 degree plastic fresh water connectors from Home Depot and cut one side so the elbow will line up and fit under the drain holes.

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I thought the clearance seemed a bit tight for tees and elbows under the unit. So I plugged the left-hand drain and drilled a hole for a grommet under the right-hand one. Drains directly through the smuggler’s box. I had no problems with the single drain. —Dave


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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Valuable writeup. Thanks for taking the time! This system is still on my list, but now with a new line item above it: acquire an air-cooled 911...

And kudos for this. I hate styrofoam so much. No matter how careful I am, there's always bits sticking to me or flying around that show up weeks later.

I decided to test Classic Retrofits statement that you did not have to drill holes in the sheet metal to do the install. I am glad to say they were right, I only used existing holes to do the install on all three systems in my car. Each owner makes decisions on where to put the equipment and where to run the lines. It is not a simple plug and play setup due to the variables between each model year and the region it was built for.Your drain line looks very clean compared to mine, my saving grace is it gets hidden by the frunk carpet.

Did you run the hoses through the car or under the car out the smugglers box? And why did you choose the one you did?

If you are asking about the #6 & #8 Freon lines I ran them up through the the bottom of the smugglers box from the the two front condensers up over the top of the fender well and down the back of the fender well as the lines were laid out from the old system. One line went to the dryer and the other line went to the compressor. The two evaporator lines run towards the back of the evaporator and curve back under the evaporator and enter the smugglers box just were the cover for the steering column cover meets the smugglers box cover. Both charge ports are inside the smugglers box. It is a tight fit but works. You will have to cut some of the steering column hard cardboard cover to make room for the two freon lines. I chose these routes because they took advantage of the old ac clamp points and I did not have to drill holes in the sheet metal.

Question and a quick answer would be appreciated. Did you get rid of the 40mm tube off the blend valve and run right from the compressor to the side vents? or do you just plug that hole on the blower?

Let me see if I understand your question. The two side vents connect to the two smaller holes on the blower/evaporator one on each side and I used the original small hoses. The one hole in the manual that is either blocked off or used with the clock vent I repurposed to provide air to the bow tie and a small vent on the passenger foot well.


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Classic Retrofit A/C Installation
 

Here is a slightly different way of installing the cooling hoses. Since I had the fuel tank out I decided to run the hoses from the installed condenser through existing holes near the battery that I enlarged with a step drill and then around the front jack area and the interior of the right front fender. The hoses are encased in neoprene sleeves in case of any condensation in the frunk area. Since I had factory a/c, there were two existing holes in the smuggler's box that helped in running the cooling hoses into the smuggler's box. I did have to drill one additional hole to accommodate the 8mm hose to the compressor. I also, like Pat, plugged the one (right) drain hole in the blower bottom and ran a drain line straight down from the left drain through a drilled hole and grommet and through the smuggler's box. As can be seen in the photos, I also drilled two enlarged holes in the steering gear box cover plate for the two hoses to exit. I also used the left 60mm hose designated for a center vent (no center vent in a 74 Carrera) and reduced it to 40mm, using a shop vac reducer fitting, to go under the blower (which is a tight squeeze) to a new center vent that I am creating to go under the dash and to an ashtray replacement vent being designed by Achtung Kraft. That vent hose goes through a large opening left over from the old a/c condenser/fan. I made a metal cover plate for the hole with an 1 1/2" L fitting to serve as a hose connector to the new center vent. I capped off the other 60mm vent designated for the clock vent and also, to answer a question on this thread, capped off the two 40mm outlets on each blend valve that are no longer used.

I asked Jonny several (too many) questions along the way and found his support to be invaluable and the key factor in my successful install. Many thanks Jonny for answering all my overly detailed questions. You are much appreciated. I look forward to purchasing other great Classic Retrofit products in the future.

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^ A couple of perfect examples of why we are not too prescriptive with where to run hoses and ducts in our manual. Although, these cars share a bodyshell, there are so many variations of the other parts that there is not really a 'correct' way or a 'wrong' way.

Part of the fun to be had with our hobby is figuring out what is best for you and your 911.

Any idea which ports in the fusebox you used for the red and the yellow wires?

sorry, I do not have an answer for you since I previously installed an upgraded fuse panel and had four additional slots so I wired each circuit for three different fuses based on the power being switched and un-switched.

Hello Pat --

I just registered with PP to ask you about your installation. Specifically, when you chose to re-use the original condenser, how did you know it was still in good enough condition? Did you pressure test it or otherwise do anything to it?

For the flare connections, did you scavenge them from original hoses? I got that impression but wanted to confirm. Any fit issues with CR's #6 and/or #8 hose?

I really like the elegance of your approach instead of running lines to the back of the car. I have spoken to Johnny about the CR system for my recently acquired 930 and am strongly inclined towards a similar approach to you.

Many thanks!

Pat beat us to it with his install but we can now supply the fittings for the Porsche belly pan condenser. Just ask.

I previously had converted my original equipment to r134 but ran into the Black Death, the system still had pressure. I only needed to flush the condenser and reuse the two flared nut connectors. There is an issue that the flared nut connectors have shorter barbed ends so you will need to crimp them closer together on the barbed end. The barbed ends fit the smaller hose. Made the connection from the lower connector from the new front condenser to the old front condenser then from the old front condenser into the input on the dryer in the smugglers box.

I believe Jonny is sourcing new connectors to use with the old front connector.