Spark Plug Removal Difficulty

[ebrownson]

I set out to replace the plugs, cap, rotor and wires on my 83 SC this morning and began the adventure on the left side. BTW, this is the first time I have done this project on the p-car. I began the plug removal with plug #3. It has been a pain to remove. Access is OK but the plug is extemely tight coming out. After about an hour I still don't have it all the way out. I decided to give it a rest and remove and replace #2 and #1. Those came out just like I thought they should. Both of those plugs took about 5 minutes. I went back to plug #3 and it is still turning real tight. With the fuel lines in the way I can only turn the ratchet about 1/8 trn at a time. I am really afraid that the threads were cross threaded by PO. Could it just be that the threads are just corroded or fouled and real tight?

Anybody out there with similar problems in the past?


Eric
83SC

[jason2guy]

well if the plug actually crossthreaded on the way in, in suspect the damage is done. i would take it out and inspect.

[pwd72s]

I'm hoping the threads are carboned up..

[Jbabic]

spray some liquid wrench or your favorite type of spray, and let it sit. plus the more you work it, the more heat you generate, cause it tougher to come out...take your time and you'll be saving big $$$ in the future. when you install the new plug, put some antisieze on the threads and go back and forth, till it becomes easy to go another 1/8 turn...keep going back and forth only go forward slowly when its easy to turn....this will redo the threads...I had the same problem....

[Early_S_Man]

Eric,

Put PB Blaster or LiquidWrench down the upper side of the plug with the tube that goes in the nozzle ... let sit for an hour, and then apply some more ... then try the factory tool in your tool kit, if you have it, as there really isn't room for a wratchet down there.

[North Coast Cab]

Turn a little, PB Blast. Turn back in, PB Blast, turn out a little more. Repeat, Repeat & Repeat. Once you get it out you can survey the potential damage. Make sure you run something in to clean threads out even if ok. Also, make sure engine is stone cold.

JG

[ebrownson]

Well, #3 finally came out. Threads looked OK, no metal shavings on them. Threads looked a little gummed up but I think I will be alright. The new plug going in was a little tight also but not as bad as the one coming out. The rest of the plugs weren't bad. #5 was a slightly sticky but not bad. Got it all back together and started it up. Running rough so I think I'm missing on a cylinder or two. I will have to go back to where I started and check all beru connectors, at the cap andd the plugs. Makes me want to remove the heater blower, hoses and a/c completely to make this kind of work a little easier. That's the part that took the most time was removing all the periferals to get to the plugs. Boy #6 was fun! Can't wait to adjust my valves!!

Thanks for the advise. I was able to get the job done without using any solvents or thread goop. Now back to work to find the missing cylinder.

[jester911]

Hey Eric,
Just out of curiousity, what plugs are you using? I had problems last year when I changed mine to some platinum dual electrode plugs. Good luck neighbor. ( I live in marietta also )

[ebrownson]

I'm using Bosch w5d(?). I am also using the OEM braided wires from PP. I was tempted to use the magnecore wires but settled on the standard OEM wires. Probably not much different then the magnecores.

I played around with the beru connectors and the distributor cap and was able to improve it. I was getting some arcing from the coil wire to the stainless steel shielding so I had to play around with the wires to move them away from the coil wire. No more arcing and it is running better. It still seems a little rough but maybe I just need to get it out and clear it's throat a little bit.

[Doug Zielke]

Eric,
Very glad you got the plug out with all threads intact.

Now this where some of us will chime in and recommend the use of anti-sieze on spark plug threads.....and then Wayne will come on quoting the Porsche tech bulletin warning *not* to use it.

Porsche supposedly gives their reason as anti-sieze will impair the proper grounding of the plug. I say, hogwash!
Especially if you use a graphite or copper-based compound.

So, save yourself some trouble and use a bit of anti-sieze next time you install plugs.

[beepbeep]

Yupp...if PO used "thread goop" you would never have this problem in the first place...

Use "thread goop"...

[Randy Webb]

Anti-sieze is Ok as long as you don't have a catalyst in the exhaust.

[ebrownson]

Not trying to coin a new phrase here (thread goop), but when I have sweat dripping off my forehead, and a problem doing a "simple maintenance" project, sometimes I can't find the correct words. Thread goop seemed appropriate and I knew everyone would know what I was talking about. I fiured goop was better than *****!!

Another question for those wiser than I. When my car is idling and I removed the red vacuum line from the distributor, nothing happened to the idle. Is this OK? I know one of the hoses is for advance and one is for retard, but couldn't remember which one. If I remove the black(blue) one, should it change the idle at all? Just wondering out loud.

[pwd72s]

Eric? I can't answer your dizzy question...but I'm happy you got the plug out without apparent damage!

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by ebrownson

I am also using the OEM braided wires from PP. I was tempted to use the magnecore wires but settled on the standard OEM wires. Probably not much different then the magnecores.

Magnecores don't have the troublesome Beru connectors.. I use Loctite Graphite-50.......Ron