Air box is blown..u would invest on a new one
And install the pop off valve. Things are adding up
Fast.

Looks like a blown air box. I would invest on a new one
Install pop off valve. Things are adding up fast.!

Timing chain tensioner supply line.

Was this original or part of an old carrera chain tensioner kit that was undone?

Yeah that cut off line should be feeding your tensioners. Will be interesting to pull the timing chain covers and see what kind of trnsioenrs you have....

I’d fix your airbox. Bolts/nuts will make clamping force. For the epoxy make sure you get something that bonds to ABS.

This is just me but I can deal with total scatter. Tearing down cis is fine but just do on step at a time or you might lose parts.


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CIS troubleshooting.........
 

Neil,

Your major problem is the cracked air box. No wonder you were having so much problem in troubleshooting. How many times did I ask you to do a smoke test? Re-seal the are box using either bigger metal screws or nuts & bolts. And pressure test before installation.

The air flow unit’s gasket is primarily a dust shield. Even without a gasket, it would not affect your CIS. Why? The AFM is under atmosphere condition like the air filter. The gasket comes in different materials (foam, paper, or cork).

The oil line by cylinder 1-2-3 is for a Carrera hydraulic fed tensioners and was modified/cut to work with your engine. I don’t think you have a Carrera 3.2 tensioner installed now in your motor.

Could you post a picture of the 3-4-5 chain housing cover? You would need a lot of patience to get this motor cleaned up. Keep us posted.

Tony

See pics below.

Planning to fix this airbox

Scatter is ok until it sits there for 6 months. That’s when I get into trouble.

Hi Tony. Of course I did smoke test 3 times with a smoke generator I bought just for this purpose. This crack is underneath the runners and either had a very small amount of smoke or I missed it which is as likely. When I pull my oil cap the rpm drops 50-75 as it should so not sure this is a big air leak. But of course I will fix it. What do you recommend JB Weld or something else?

Here are the pics you requested


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611508441.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611508441.jpg

Thanks for any replies!

PS Tony

You are right about patience needed. Good thing I am retired have plenty of time.
I will clean the engine as best I can to improve its appearance but not going to go crazy making it look new. I have a long list of items to check and/or repair and if I can clean up along the way so much the better. This will never be a show car.

Pressure washer supposed to be here tomorrow. We will see how it looks afterwards and go from there.

Cleaned the air box today.
Put in flashlight in one of the intake ports opposite the seam crack.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611532304.jpg

The crack is under the two lower openings in this picture. No light shows through.

The injector sleeves were a real mess. I believe a lot more air coming through each of them. I have new sleeve O rings.

All pressure washed. Not as clean as I would like but as clean as I can get with a sprayer. An improvement for sure though.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611687118.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611687118.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611687179.jpg

Found this on the ground after I cleaned up. Anyone recognize it? The washer may have just blown it out of a crevice on the motor somewhere. Looks like something from around the clutch arm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611687469.jpg

Note the capped off oil line above the tensioner opening. I assume these are original tensioners not the upgraded Carrera version.

If that is so I will replace the oil line with the correct original version and order two tensioner rebuild kits and tensioner guard kit from PP. The Carrera tensioner kits are outside my budget unfortunately. Maybe next time.

Does this sound like a good plan?

Thanks

If they aren't in your budget, buy them with a credit card. If those mechanical ones fail, which they can, your engine is donezo and you're going to need to pull it all the way apart. Unfamiliar with tensioner guard... if that can prevent failure maybe that is a more cost effective way.

Good idea with new lines, they aren't too much $.

the pin you found is from your rear decklid shock absorber(hood shock)..not to worry ...
Ivan

Oil fed tensioner kit $1000. Tensioner guards are $10 per side. PP sells both.

Thanks Ivan

that's a securing pin for either hood/lid shocks or the door band to A-pillar

rinse with brake cleaner quick, then go next level with baken oven cleaner and a brush to rub in a bit.
though follow application rules.
don't let it soak too long on bare cast Aluminium (20-30 minutues should do the job anyway).

Did some looking around last night. The Porsche priced tensioner kit that I had seen originally is $1200 per side, so $2400 total. The Sebro kit on PP is about $900 total for both sides which is at least sort of reasonable in the Porsche world.

Any issues with the Sebro kit?

Thanks

Great idea with the baking soda. I will do that at some point.

Thanks

That is good news!

I'm not familiar with the Sebro kit but here's a link for a used kit (no affiliation to seller): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1084413-carrera-tensioner-upgrade-setup.html

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/930105911912.htm?pn=930-105-911-912-INT

I just put these on my 77. $1500 for the pair.

i wonder why is it so expensive if in Europe the whole kit costs 620 Euros??

Funracer, stick with your stuff .............

Ivan

That kit does both sides for $735 doesn’t it?

Purchased this today. Funny I check the parts for sale section every day and missed that. A few of the bits are missing from what he has for sale but all of those look to be available on PP.

I know I am taking a risk buying used but these are original Porsche parts and according to most people the failure rate on these tensioners is extremely small.

Thanks again for the tip!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611854954.jpg

Ready to move to the engine stand.

Seems most people mount these on the passenger (right) side. Any down side to mounting on the drivers (left) side? I want to get at my oil cooler this will give me more room on that side.

Thanks

remove the clutch..no need to have it on...
Ivan

Afraid to! Never done it!

Removes entire drive train from a vintage 911...

...deal breaker is clutch removal....

I'm dying...LOLOL

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Well when you put it that way its pretty funny. Hate leaving my comfort zone!

I am leaving town tomorrow until Monday. Really want to get the motor on the stand before I go.

Can I mount the yolk on the drivers side and still remove the clutch while its on the stand next week? If not I guess it comes off today!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611864375.jpg

Eight came out no problem. The ninth one stripped inside the hex.

So not all that easy, unfortunately.

Man, you need better tools.
Are you using socket hex?

It’s an Allen socket. May not have been pushed in all the way.
Drilled it out and banged a larger star socket and got it out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611866957.jpg

All 9 allen bolts are out. Pressure plate not moving. 101 Projects book says it should nearly fall off. That is not happening.

Can I put this on the engine stand with the yoke mounted on the drivers side and deal with it next week? I have to leave in an hour!

Thanks

If my memory serves me correctly, (ya right) if you have the better Porsche yoke you can still take it off. Not so with the cheaper or VW yoke. Can't you tell by just doing a trial mount?

Mine was bought from Fleabay. Had to remove the exhaust crossover tube and now it mounts flush to either side. If there is no reason not to I want to mount it to the drivers side so I will have more access to the oil cooler.

It’s the orange one a few pics up the thread on this page

what exactly is your work plan on this engine?
Once you relocate the yoke ,prior that remove the flywheel ,you will be most likely replacing the seal behind it right?
Are you doing a valve job or ?.......?

Ivan

removing the clutch is important at that stage to:
a) control the clutch (still good?)
b) inspect the flywheel
c) inspect the crank seal behind flywheel

My work plan is to inspect and repair/replace the following:

Drop and clean motor and engine compartment (done)
Engine to stand (not done yet)
Engine leak down and compression
Check head studs (already done this once but will retorque)
RSR seals (where to purchase these, I don’t think PP has them?)
ToD leaks
Return tubes replaced
Chain tensioners upgrade
Cam timing (not sure if this needs to be done)
Valves adjust with Snap Caps
Motor and Trans mounts
Injectors and sleeve O rings
Replace CSV O rings
Inspect airbox and CIS overall for air leaks and reseal (doing this now)
Oil cooler seals
Intake manifolds gaskets
Replace throttle plate bushings
Possibly have fuel distributor rebuilt
Possibly have fan/housing/strap refinished
Sound deadener replaced (done)
Inspect and lube dizzy
Lastly install all new exhaust

Generally to replace every seal, gasket and O ring that is accessible without opening the engine. Clutch was working well but since I have no maintenance history from the previous owner I will inspect and replace if necessary. I was unable to get the pressure plate off last night.

Not planning a valve job at the moment

I already have a large box of O rings and gaskets etc to get me going including shift shaft, flywheel and diff seals. Just need to get it on the stand and go go go!

I figure I will be done by next weekend! :)

Regards

I will do this. I was hoping I could do it on the stand with the P201 style adapter I am using.

Thanks