No problem! Hope it works out for you http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

If you're going this far I would suggest you pull the heads and cylinders replace the timing chains valve job etc...

The chains look stretched that means the gears are worn. With all the work your going through you may as well go through it all. It is a slippery slope.

Not planning on that until it gets to 250,000 miles. Or I find something that makes me do it, whichever comes first.

Pulled the valve covers today and carefully torqued all the head studs to 23lbs. Many of them were loose-ish so I’m am glad I did it. Hopefully this will eliminate another source of leaks.

Should I also torque the cam housing bolts while I am there or no? The How to Modify and Build Porsche Engines book says this can be a source of leaks.

Lastly, good news on the rocker seals, I think. The areas are dry that should be (see photo). There may be a slight walking on one of the rocker shafts (see photo) should I try to reposition it to leave it since its not leaking? Planning to re-torque the rocker shaft Allen bolts when I do the valve adjustments.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
Compared to this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg

Thanks for any advice

I would still do RSR seals. Costs not much, just an hour or two of labor, and then you'll have even fewer places to leak.

That’s a tough one for me. Not leaking a drop currently.

Is RSR a brand name? Does PP sell them?

Thanks

If they aren’t leaking, don’t touch them. Fix them one at a time if they start to leak (they probably won’t). If you disturb them some will almost certainly leak.

If they're 100% bone dry, yeah I guess, but they're so cheap and easy to do with the engine out right now.

I double that!

if the shaft is not leaking do not bother---old saying is..if it ain`t broken why fix it......

Ivan

I used RSR seals *and* wicking Loctite when assembling my (still unfired) engine.

I think I will leave shafts alone for now and keep an eye on them whenever I have the VCs off.

Should I also torque the cam housing bolts while I am there or no? The How to Modify and Build Porsche Engines book says this can be a source of leaks.

Thanks for all input.

Definitely torque cam housings

Cool! Will do.

Thanks

PMFJI, are you guys talking about the mounting fasteners or just the covers?

I did. None of them moved a bit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1615219398.jpg

SnapGap kit is wonderful. I set my valves with feeler gauge last summer with engine in the car. Took hours.

Reset them on the engine stand yesterday with the SnapGap kit. Never used it before. In total it took 40 minutes. I wiggled each rocker to get a before-and-after feel. My guess is they were at about .2mm prior to the SnapGap procedure (twice what they should have been). Now they are at .1mm for sure.

Of course being on the engine stand helped a lot as well, but some tools are just worth the time and hassle saved. And no cursing!

I gotta try that Snapgap thing one of these days. But … I gotta tell you, wiggling the rocker and arriving at 0.2mm guess is just that, highly inaccurate guess.

Yes just a guess, as I said. May have been .25mm:)

Installed oil fed tensioners and am putting in the other bits and pieces to finish this upgrade. Only problem with the parts I have assembled so far:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1615614739.jpg

Any reason not to drill and tap a TT switch port in the left chain cover (might be time to buy a drill press)? I have a tap and die set but not one this large. I believe the TT on the left side chain cover and 15 degree switch on the right are the same threads. Offhand anyone know what size tap to buy?

Looked for a left chain cover that has both the tensioner oil line port and the threaded port for the TT switch but could not find one outside of a full kit.

“I believe the TT on the left side chain cover and 15 degree switch on the right are the same threads.”

After looking at it again today it appears they are not the same thread.

Found two sources that agree the thermo time switch threads are M14x1.5.

Google is wonderful.

Is this a leaking rocker shaft seal? It’s on the exhaust side at the front of the motor.
Notice the intake side is dark but not wet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1616280165.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1616280165.jpg

Or is that large plug leaking?

Thanks

That engine needs a overhaul no getting around it. Do what you have to do.

Only 107,000 miles. Should last a lot longer. Does leaky = overhaul?

I would think it is the freeze plug there. These engines are hard to keep from leaking. Have you ever read the engine sealant thread? It is years long and when I read it before rebuilding my 2.7 I still had questions on proper sealants for different areas of the engine. This was a few years ago, runs great still leaks some places, but it's also a mag case 2.7. You might have better luck with a 3.0.

Buy these !

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/accessories/101-projects-books.htm

Got them! Thanks

This reseal project began because I was unhappy with the amount of oil on my garage floor. My oil return tubes were in backwards (as pointed out by several sharpies earlier) so that was an obvious source and easy fix.

But a lot of oil was coming from up high on the number 6 cylinder corner. First thought is the oil cooler, but when I pulled it apart there was no evidence of a leak. But plenty of oil was between the cooler and the forward side of the motor:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617642869.jpg

It looked like oil was escaping from the number 6 exhaust rocker shaft. This led me to order RSR seals. Today I put them on the 4-5-6 exhaust and intake rocker shafts. I took out 5 bone dry rocker shaft bolts but cylinder 6 exhaust bolt was soaking wet. Hard to take a good pic but you can see the shiny one on the left.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617643130.jpg

Hopefully these seals will take care of that leak.

Been putting this day off but finally got it done. Cleaned out the engine bay with Dawn and brake cleaner, then stripped out the AC lines and charcoal canister lines.

After cleaning, replaced all the engine compartment perimeter seals and the sound barrier. White paint stained with oil and grease is tough to get spotless. To be perfect it needs new paint but thats not happening. Given the state it was in I am really happy how it turned out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617938822.jpg

That looks pretty good! I think I would lose my mind with a white engine bay, lol

"charcoal canister lines"
Are they not for the evaporator system for the fuel tank?

Yes I believe so. I thought it was common to remove it. I pulled the line off at the rear tunnel connection. From there to the fuel tank is still in place.

I was under the impression that the charcoal canister and lines were necessary to keep your garage from smelling like fuels and more importantly your wife happy...?

Just did a search and read up on it. May to have to put it back in. Easy enough since I still have all the pieces. Thanks for the catch!

Coming along!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619205910.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619205910.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619205910.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619205910.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619205910.jpg

No show car for sure but much improved so far.
Got to get a new coil bracket!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624417827.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624417827.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624417960.jpg

These stainless heater valves, new hardware and hose are a nice upgrade. Really cleans up that area.

Did you break/replace any of the studs holding the heat valves? Installation looks very good with the new hardware.

I have a set of rebuilt flappers waiting to go in when it's clutch time. Worried about breaking the old and rusty studs, even if soaked with PB or similar.Looks like a tough area to do any welding.

No broken studs thankfully. The old ones came off pretty easily.

Update?