Clear wrapping question

[Kansas]

Just bought an SC with a new GP white bare metal respray. Would it be advisable to wrap it in clear wrap to protect the new paint? I’ve heard a few things about damage over time from wrapping. Any truth to this, and how long is a wrap good for before it needs to be removed and/or replaced?

[hcoles]

This may or may not be an issue depending on the type of paint or clear wrap.
Consider what time is needed for the paint/clear coat to fully harden or cure before the chemicals in the clear wrap might cause some undesirable effect.

[GH85Carrera]

We had my wife's brand new Macan wrapped with a "clear bra" for just the front part of the hood, and the bumper and the mirrors and the rear loading area and such were covered in the clear wrap. Of course factory paint is nothing like a aftermarket repaint. Talk to whoever painted it, and ask their advice on how long you should wait for the paint to get to a full hardness.

My 1985 911 has been to 41 states, and Canada. There are more than a few rock chips, and it is the cost of driving a car. Like wear on the driver's seat, it is just why I bought the car.

Hopefully a real paint pro on this site will answer your question. Did your car get painted with single stage period correct paint or the modern two stage paint?

[Kansas]

Originally Posted by hcoles

This may or may not be an issue depending on the type of paint or clear wrap.
Consider what time is needed for the paint/clear coat to fully harden or cure before the chemicals in the clear wrap might cause some undesirable effect.

The paint work was done back in October by the seller, so shouldn’t be an issue at this point.

[Kansas]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

We had my wife's brand new Macan wrapped with a "clear bra" for just the front part of the hood, and the bumper and the mirrors and the rear loading area and such were covered in the clear wrap. Of course factory paint is nothing like a aftermarket repaint. Talk to whoever painted it, and ask their advice on how long you should wait for the paint to get to a full hardness.

My 1985 911 has been to 41 states, and Canada. There are more than a few rock chips, and it is the cost of driving a car. Like wear on the driver's seat, it is just why I bought the car.

Hopefully a real paint pro on this site will answer your question. Did your car get painted with single stage period correct paint or the modern two stage paint?

The seller did the paint so I wouldn’t know for sure. I’d think probably guess single stage period correct paint. I’m honestly leaning toward doing what you did as far as just wrapping the front part of the hood, and rear wheel flares. I don’t drive the car enough to really be worried about that much wear to the paint.

[Cairo94507]

That paint has long since dried and off-gassed. I would have PPF applied and wrap the entire hood, front bumper, headlight and fog light lenses. Maybe mirror backs too. I am sure they would do this anyway, but make sure they actually wrap the edges of the hood. I would remove the Porsche hood crest myself and reinstall it after.

[canamfan]

The only thing I'd clear wrap (for protection) are my lights, not my paint any more, especially on fresh paint. Been there done that. It's just as costly to do sectional proper painting if chipped up. The wrap is never as good quality for longevity as they say, it discolors, bubbles at any imperfection especially when a rock or debris pokes through it & it grows after time & water penetration. Then there is the 50/50 chance after you decide to peel it off if it ever rips the old paint off (I'd say there is an 80%+ chance of that personally). Also, at any given edge (however slight) the dirt gets trapped & on light colors it looks like hell. Just my experience