Engine drop on a 2 post lift. Who has done it?

[cabmandone]

One of my winter projects is swapping out my old transmission with one I rebuilt. I'm planning to use my two post lift and a scissor cart capable of handling the weight of the engine and transmission.

I've seen a lot of threads where guys do this on a 4 post but haven't seen much in the way of 2 post. I'm curious about weight distribution and where to place the lift arms so that the car will remain stable while the engine is being removed. Are there any tricks that others have learned? And what cart do you guys recommend for the job?

I've done several engine drops with jack stands and the back end up in the air so I'm familiar with removal and install. I've never been "nervous" about dropping the engine but on a lift, it's first time jitters. I'm just concerned about placement on the 2 post when the engine comes out. My lift is a Challenger CL10 V3 so it's PLENTY heavy enough for the job.

If you have pics of your car up with the engine out and where the arms are located, that would help me immensely.

[Locker537]

I haven't done it, so consider not listening to me. I would think that the chassis will be more stable on a 2-post without the engine

[gomezoneill]

I have a Bend Pak two post and have dozens of engine/trans drops. I put the arms as far back as possible (that's it) never had a problem. I use a floor jack under the trans engine connection and balance the unit on the jack then pull it around, easy as can be.

This is the way I learned in the 70's working at a Porsche dealership.

[chrismorse]

I recently dropped my74 engine/trans, using a twin post asymetric lift and a harbor fright 1000 pound rated lift table. worked slick. The lift table is great for moving the engine around and as a work table. I moved the car back a little further than i usually would to account for the reduced rear weight after the drop.
I pulled the muffler first, then placed the table as far forward as possible to account for the weight of the transaxle.
easy one man job.

Good luck.
chris

[blucille]

Originally Posted by chrismorse

I recently dropped my74 engine/trans, using a twin post asymetric lift and a harbor fright 1000 pound rated lift table. worked slick. The lift table is great for moving the engine around and as a work table. I moved the car back a little further than i usually would to account for the reduced rear weight after the drop.
I pulled the muffler first, then placed the table as far forward as possible to account for the weight of the transaxle.
easy one man job.

Good luck.
chris

me too....the lift table was a huge help, working alone....2 post lift, no worries.

[colingreene]

I left the muffler on, Just make sure you pay attention to the shift rod and the body because its very common for people to get hug up on the shift rod and bend up the lip where the interior seal rides.

[jons911]

I used the MaxJax M6 and Harbor Freight 1000lb hydraulic table cart. I originally just had the 500lb one, but repeated use with the transmission still on almost killed it. I placed the car on the lift the same way I always do. The normal lift points and getting the CG close to the posts. I was able to do the entire drop and install by myself with this setup.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by colingreene

I left the muffler on, Just make sure you pay attention to the shift rod and the body because its very common for people to get hug up on the shift rod and bend up the lip where the interior seal rides.

Yeah, mine is now more of an oval shape due to a previous owner not paying attention. I never knew it was supposed to be round until my brother and I dropped his engine.

[cabmandone]

I'll have to make sure to post a couple of pics when I finally get around to doing this job.

[wareaglescott]

I did it with a bendpak 2 post. I made some brackets that support the rear torsion bars and used those to support the rear. Got an ATV jack from Harbor freight and built a wood platform to sit on it that would support the motor better. Worked great.

[scotricker]

Yes, I have done it too, with a 2 post lift.
Get everything in place with the car down low, then just raise the car up off the engine/ trans, worked very well.

[Jeff Higgins]

I literally just did this twice in the last two weeks, first on a buddy's '79 SC and then on another buddy's '70 E (the car in the 2.5 liter X-Factory engine build thread). Most everything has already been covered, so I'll just add one issue that most of us wouldn't even consider.

Like most of you, I had only done this with a floor jack (or motorcycle jack) by raising the back of the car as high as possible, leaving the front wheels on the ground. The car sits at quite an angle, right? Well, that's kind of key to both getting the shift rod out of and then back into the tunnel. With the car level, and the engine level, this is almost impossible.

So, it's pretty much an imperative that you have a way to either tilt the motor, or that you block up the front of it on your lift table to simulate that angle. A level motor/tranny under a level car is pretty difficult to work with.

[rattlsnak]

Best way to do it on a 2 post lift is to only use the rear lift arms.. (so when you lift it, it only lifts the rear of the car and the front wheels stay on the ground. Works like a charm.

[yelcab1]

I did it a month ago. Doable.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by wareaglescott

I did it with a bendpak 2 post. I made some brackets that support the rear torsion bars and used those to support the rear. Got an ATV jack from Harbor freight and built a wood platform to sit on it that would support the motor better. Worked great.

I saw another thread with your table on the ATV jack setup and your adapters. Slick.
I have an atv jack. That's what I used both time I pulled the engine in my car. Did you lower the engine then raise to car and pull the engine out?

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Jeff Higgins

I literally just did this twice in the last two weeks, first on a buddy's '79 SC and then on another buddy's '70 E (the car in the 2.5 liter X-Factory engine build thread). Most everything has already been covered, so I'll just add one issue that most of us wouldn't even consider.

Like most of you, I had only done this with a floor jack (or motorcycle jack) by raising the back of the car as high as possible, leaving the front wheels on the ground. The car sits at quite an angle, right? Well, that's kind of key to both getting the shift rod out of and then back into the tunnel. With the car level, and the engine level, this is almost impossible.

So, it's pretty much an imperative that you have a way to either tilt the motor, or that you block up the front of it on your lift table to simulate that angle. A level motor/tranny under a level car is pretty difficult to work with.

I was thinking about that too. I'm thinking I can block the trans up a bit when I go back in with it.

[mikesarge]

I used the same atv jack as wareaglescott, and my atlas 8k 2-post lift. No concern about weight distribution whatsoever. A lift table would be better than the atv jack. Car was totally stable as I continued to work on it without the drivetrain while I waited for Al (x-faktory) to build the engine and John Walker to rebuild the transaxle.

2 post is easy mode, that’s why there aren’t many threads on it. Mine was in and out a couple of times, and by the last time I was as fast as my best time with my old squareback- out and back in, in under 2 hours!

You’ve got this.

[mepstein]

I worked at a shop that did a lot of 911 engine conversions. Mostly small sixes to big sixes. All 3 lifts were 2 post and they dropped the engine and trans onto a 1000lb harbor freight lift table. Took about 30-45 minutes to drop the engine.

[cabmandone]

The consensus go to stand for removal in the 4 post world seemed to be the harbor freight 1000 lb table. I'm gonna look into one. I know my brother bought one when we pulled his engine. It was fine on the down but the lift back up, it needed help. I'm not sure what weight his table was rated for.

Thanks again for all the replies!

[cabmandone]

Well it took a while but I finally got around to building some adapters for my 2 post. I liked Scott's but wanted something that cradled the spring plate cap. What I came up with is 2" conduit pipe nipples and a piece of 2" pipe cut in half. I have a little work to do yet as I'm going to shorten the adapter to go in my taller extension. I want to lift the rear of the car slightly before the front engages. Next up is dropping the engine. Hopefully that doesn't take as long to get to as making the adapters. I also bought the HF 1000 lb lift table so I should have all the tools ready for the job.