Not enough power going to passenger side low beam

[sdjaytee]

Hello

My passenger side low beam isnt working. Car has the sealed lense/bulb style

Known things
1. Drivers side low beam works
2. Pushing the stalk on the steering wheel forward turns on and leaves on both hi beams
3. Pulling back on the stalk does nothing
4. Both turn signals work
5. Both running lights come on putting the headlight switch in the first position
6. Changing the passenger headlight bulb to a new one didnt help
7. No fuses blown on the panel
8. Tested the leads that the sealed bulb plugs into, drivers side 12 volts with low beam switch on, passengers side 4-6 volts, what happening here?

thanks

[OldSpool87]

Just had this happen. No visibly blown fuses. Pulled them anyway, cleaned contacts and replaced with new fuses. Worked.

[sdjaytee]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

Just had this happen. No visibly blown fuses. Pulled them anyway, cleaned contacts and replaced with new fuses. Worked.

Ill do that right now, thanks!

[Joe Bob]

Do you have an aftermarket relay kit? Good idea for saving the burning up of the stalk and other lighting accessories.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/JWST911HLPR.htm?pn=JWST-911-HLPR&msclkid=fd417576a24b139353e515ea8a534836&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20Ads%20-%20Porsche&utm_term=4580634170083223&utm_content=Porsche%20Catch%20All

This easy-to-install kit uses factory connections and mounting points. With the relay kit, the electrical current travels straight from the battery to the headlight circuit at the fuse box, greatly reducing the load on the headlight switch and the failure prone column switch. In addition, more power is supplied to the headlights for maximum light output. Maximum 100 watt bulbs recommended.

[sdjaytee]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Do you have an aftermarket relay kit? Good idea for saving the burning up of the stalk and other lighting accessories.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/JWST911HLPR.htm?pn=JWST-911-HLPR&msclkid=fd417576a24b139353e515ea8a534836&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20Ads%20-%20Porsche&utm_term=4580634170083223&utm_content=Porsche%20Catch%20All

This easy-to-install kit uses factory connections and mounting points. With the relay kit, the electrical current travels straight from the battery to the headlight circuit at the fuse box, greatly reducing the load on the headlight switch and the failure prone column switch. In addition, more power is supplied to the headlights for maximum light output. Maximum 100 watt bulbs recommended.

I dont have the kit but i will order, thanks for the info

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

Just had this happen. No visibly blown fuses. Pulled them anyway, cleaned contacts and replaced with new fuses. Worked.

Also holy moly just cleaning the contacts and replacing the old non blown fuses fixed it!!

[darrin]

throw a pair of H4 bulb assemblies in -- not too expensive -- the Koito headlamps (7" round) are supposed to be the best out there these days -- https://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html#Buy Simple, drop-in replacement for the sealed beam bulbs and a night and day difference from the sealed beam units once properly aimed.

d

[john walker's workshop]

I replace tons of fuse that are seriously corroded. Folks don't tend to check them very often. If they look crusty gray, replace them. Give them all a light spray of penetrant for good measure. Keeps the corrosion at bay. Something other that WD, which tends to go away pretty quickly.

[hcoles]

Good point - check fuses for corrosion. Also, install a relay kit for the high and low beams to get the current out of the ignition switch.

[911pcars]

A smudge of dielectric grease on the contact surfaces keeps corrosion at bay.

Sherwood

[Joe Bob]

Personally I shytecanned the plastic fuses and went with the aftermarket style fuses. Our sponsor sells the kit.

Haven't had an issue except for a few overloaded circuits due my ride being a greymarket import and a 3.6 conversion.

I remember back in the day when my DME on my SC converted to a 3.6 had an intermittent short. The POS fuses had a wear spot from me spinning them due to salt corrosion by living at the beach.

I gave that panel the float test right after that discovery.

The relay really saves the electrical bits and pieces involved with the lighting circuits. Add up the costs...$50 for some relays is stupid cheap insurance.

[jjeffries]

... done no one else has said it: locate all the grounds on your car, undo the screw or nut and give them some TLC. Scotch Brite or fine sandpaper, clean with alcohol or DeOxit, assemble nice and snug. Just as critical to the free passage of happy electrons. Factory wiring diagrams do a fair job of showing where these grounds are located.

John

[fred cook]

Pull the wires (one at a time!) at the fuse box and clean off any corrosion. A .22 rimfire wire cleaning brush is just the right size to use to clean the holes. Add a little smear of dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Joe Bob is right, changing out the fuse panel for one that uses the ATO type fuses is the real fix. Not cheap, but effective.

[john walker's workshop]

Some wiring jobs I've seen on those ATO panels are pretty weird. Rather see a stock setup in good shape, that is wired normally, and can be diagnosed easily, but that's just me.

[sdjaytee]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

... done no one else has said it: locate all the grounds on your car, undo the screw or nut and give them some TLC. Scotch Brite or fine sandpaper, clean with alcohol or DeOxit, assemble nice and snug. Just as critical to the free passage of happy electrons. Factory wiring diagrams do a fair job of showing where these grounds are located.

John

yep, decided to check all the grounds, replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the connections. it all needed tlc.

thanks all!