980 911SC rear engine lid locked/will not open

[kimlangley7]

1980 911SC rear engine lid locked/will not open

I have been doing some restore actions on my SC – the latest – re-paint engine lid and overhaul of the turbo tea tray tail and spoiler support/fiberglass. Essentially – the rear end of my SC is restored.

So, I mount the engine lid to the support brackets – I fail to perform a close inspection of the lock mechanism interface – shut the lid – and now it will not re-open.

I’ve got this big tea tray tail – with metal mesh so it precludes me from reaching in from above – as the mesh is in the way

My remedial actions so far:

- Pull T handle opener to full extension while pushing down on lid – attempt to open – no joy

- Wiggle the lid r  L while pulling up – no joy

- Twist the lid – no joy

- Remove rear taillight to ascertain whether I can gain access – no joy

- My last action was to remove the T handle from the lock cable – as it’s reported that the default position when to cable breaks is to release the lock – go to the open position – The lid remains locked.

I will admit – through my actions I have gained a wee-bit more movement/space in the lid – but not enough to get my fingers in there to release the lock mechanism.

I’m running out of ideas.

Anyone??

Kgl

[proporsche]

remove the T handle so the lock will ease up...that is how is supposed to work..start with this and report.
Also there was a thread just a week ago with the same trouble look it up

Ivan

[Harpo]

Above the muffler is a pannel with some small screws. This will give you access to the bottom side of the latch.

[kimlangley7]

Ivan:

I read your post - or several of your posts wrt engine lid closed > As noted I have removed the T handle - and have pushed the cable into the pipe - and still no joy..

[proporsche]

Hi Kim, my bad, did not see the line....now would be the best to have two of you but i`m sure you have tried already,right?Attach the T handle and one pulls and one goes on side of the lid only with hand -no tools to try to twist it..
ivan

[kimlangley7]

I'll try to get ahold of the cable inside the pipe pull it out some

kgl

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Harpo

Above the muffler is a pannel with some small screws. This will give you access to the bottom side of the latch.

Really? I had no idea. All year models? Got any photos?

[kimlangley7]

Ivan:

Managed - with a pair of very fine needle nose tweezers to grab the cable - reattach the T handle and perform the side - to side shimmy-shake = no joy...

If it adds anything to the discussion - when the latch was operating correctly - it never did kick up the deck lid - I had to hold the T handle open with my left hand - and my right hand grabbed the lid and lifted it up...

[proporsche]

good job..there is a special adjustment to the latch ,tomorrow i will make a video

Ivan

[kimlangley7]

I want to fix my engine lid shut via the T-handle and calibrated shimmy/shake > but if there is another technique > the access hatch located on top of the muffler - I'll consider that as a fall back plan B //

Anyone doing a restro out there that has their car apart > muffler out >> can you snap a pix of this access hatch for the latch mechanism??

kgl

[proporsche]

If i adjust the latch i go like this..
loose those 2x 10mm head bolts on upper latch so it is lose side to side....close the lid but do not close all the way..this way it will align itself.Then lift it and make those bolts tight.
the bottom latch as i said has to be adjusted loosely-show you later.
Also the 2 rubber stop has to be adjusted so there is a back pressure on the lid.

Ivan

[Dr J]

Stuck engine lid- when all else fails

Start with the initial suggestions and work your way down the list.

[Prestallion]

I think this is it. There’s 5 fasteners but my car isn’t jacked up high enough to get a photo of all of them.

[AlKidd]

My car has a weak spring in the catch pin. After adding a tail, the spring can no longer keep up with the added weight. I was able to slide a 1/4-3/8 thick plastic body trim tool into the space between the body and the lid. That added enough pressure to get the lid to clear the catch when I pulled the cable.

[proporsche]

alkid, for that you those 2 rubber stops to help you to keep pressure on the lid when opening not the spring...

Ivan

[AlKidd]

Ivan:
The stops are there. Do you add more? I can compress the spring with very little force.

Al

Originally Posted by proporsche

alkid, for that you those 2 rubber stops to help you to keep pressure on the lid when opening not the spring...

Ivan

[proporsche]

stops have to be adjusted so the lid pops up if the spring is original and not broken it is quite normal with heavier hood

Ivan

[AlKidd]

I believe they are more for adjusting the alignment of the decklid to the body. If I raise them half a turn, the edge of the lid sits proud of the body. At that the latch still wont open.

Originally Posted by proporsche

stops have to be adjusted so the lid pops up if the spring is original and not broken it is quite normal with heavier hood

Ivan

[proporsche]

they are there for both reasons..Also the pint on your hood can be adjusted ...lose the nut ,i think 27mm and adjust the pin

Ivan

[kimlangley7]

Me-thinks some real progress

Update on stuck rear lid problem – I removed the rear bumper – to gain a small bit more access – and contrair to what Harpo said of there being a magical panel that permits access to the latch mechanism – no joy at all. There is a panel – but it’s just a splash panel and when removed – there is the outer skin of the engine compartment – no internal access.

I have now created enough gap between the lid and the body where I can see the latch mechanism – and I believe I can get an open end 10mm wrench to release the bottom /female component of the latch. Key to this is removing the engine lid rubber gasket.

I used a interior trim pry tool made of hard plastic/nylon to wedge against the body and the lid – give me some working room. Maybe Ό to ½ inch working room. Enough room to insert a thin 10mm open end wrench on the head of the 10mm bolt holding the female component of the latch. You get maybe Ό turn at a time .

Good lighting is essential – used a headlamp – but held it by hand as again – you have Ό to ½ inch room to shine the light on the bolt head.

Naturally – this ***** is not going to give up without a full fight – so as I slowly backed out the bolt – the head rises bit by bit – and I can no longer grab the bolt head – I had to use a pair of long hemostats to turn the bolt by the threads. Once the bolt was released you could feel the trunk was no longer captive = kgl has “joy”!!