Rear Swaybar Drop Links

[GaryR]

Didn't see it mentioned, but if you increase the sway bar size (or possibly change the OEM bars rigidity by adding holes inward) you had better address the sway bar mounts weakness by either reinforcing it or replacing it outright.

[Mahler9th]

In my experience (racing), you do not necessarily need to reinforce or replace factory ARB mounts when you employ a stiffer-than-stock factory or aftermarket bar.

My car is a '75, and I have used a '75 bar, a very large diameter 930 bar, and right now have the excellent Tarett set up. My mounts have never had an issue.

My car is a 2000 pound race car with coilovers, and the bulk of the wheel rate out back is created by the springs.

So of course if mounts are compromised they should likely be addressed, but in my experience the answer for every other situation is "it depends."

In the past 30 years I have seen it be pretty common for folks to employ a stiffer-than-stock factory or aftermarket bar to increase rear wheel rate without making a change to t-bars, since the work is so much easier/bolt on. That type of set up may theoretically put more strain on the factory ARB mounts.

I have had extensive conversations with the designers/developers of all of these rear ARBs:

Charlie S. (Charlie Bars)
Dwight M. (Weltmeister)
El CW and Jerry W. (JWE/SRP)
Ira R. (Tarett)

All great folks and great products.

I have also had many conversations with enthusiasts that have not taken the time to understand the rear suspension system to ensure they are making the optimal choices-- not only for ARB alternatives, but also for things like maintenance.

I have a friend I am currently helping out with a beautiful '74... we are going through the thing and getting it mildly set up.

The standard '74 rear ARB is used, and when we went to disconnect it to measure CB, it became instantly clear that his factory rear ARB drop link bushings have so much stiction that no doubt handling has been affected. So we are addressing that.

It can be very helpful to make sure all that stuff can move freely.

In any case, it seems like the OP's question(s) have been answered.

[Walt Fricke]

If you have a welder, it is pretty easy to cut some steel to size and weld it on, boxing in the ARB mounts. Plenty stiff. I lost a mount long ago due to a rock which had fallen on the mountain highway while I was driving to a DE in Aspen/Woody Creek. Ran over the rock, and it broke a mount loose (which I discovered the next day at some point while looking under the car or changing tires or something). Muffler shop welded things back on, and later I boxed them in. Still holding.

[chrismorse]

My dad ordered the car with the carrera bar option 20/28mm. He was an engineer who appreciated, but never worked on his car. No competition, no canyon carving, just sane transportation.

at some point, the rear bar mount fatigued and broke off. His shop probably talked to him about his driving style and they concluded he would be fine with no rear bar, so they removed the rear bar. He drove it that way for many years, untill he passed the car to me.

Mike, I see your point that most hotrodders/racers will up the T bar, (or coils), therefore the RARB is "less" stressed, but there have been a fair number of reported failures, of stock bar mounts. I'm happy with the Wevo fix.