Fuel lines routing through tunnel

[gdp_samson]

Hi,

seems that installing new fuel lines is not the easiest of tasks (OK, Len makes a set and connector that make the story at least a bit easier, I read...)

Did anyone route the fuel lines 'outside' the car, like the airconditioning lines ?
So not through the tunnel but maybe on the left side of the car, a bit the mirrored path as the oil lines to the front wheel run on the right side of the car (when looking from back of the car to the front) ?

[NotStock]

No reason you couldn't, it would get fuel from the front to the back, but they would be fairly exposed. Think of all the pictures of oil lines hammered by floor jacks, and the threads about fixing them. Your car, so if you are the one working on it, and you aren't an animal with the jack, it could work. I don't like it, but it would get you running.

A friend got picked apart on a safety inspection for routing brake lines in a way that the inspector didn't like. Food for thought, not sure what your local rules are, they vary pretty widely. Long term, I would want them in the tunnel.

[Rodsrsr]

That is a terrible idea.....

[Dpmulvan]

It’s not a difficult job just a pain in the butt, gather your patience and do it the right way once and be done with it.

[GH85Carrera]

If you get a buddy to help, it is not too bad, even with the engine in place.
Once you get the fittings in the engine compartment disconnected just lots of push me pull you with your buddy on the lines.

[lrodri64]

Hi,
I have done a few.
I remove front suspension components (except rack & pinion)
In the rear I use a jack under the diff area of the gearbox to remove the transmission crossmember.
loose lines and start pulling from the front.
I do one at time.. never pulled both.

[BoxsterGT]

With a "helper" some have done the Tunnel lines in just (2) hours.

It is not difficult, just a bit tedious.

Len

[Dpmulvan]

[BrakeL8]

Do yourself a favor and use new flexible lines that can thread onto existing to pull. I used Paul Mason's kit for all fuel lines and his kit and support are excellent- however the difficulty in my 87 of dealing w/ getting these routed w/ the engine out and one of my kid's small hands and patience and then attaching the flare fittings over what was then a slightly rounded piece of aluminum isn't worth the peace of mind that the metal offers.

I mean this solely w/ my lack of talent as a mechanic but I'd run the ones that attach and pull - the heartbreak of metal on metal friction causing my taped pull string to come undone 80% of the way there and then several mis-routes and super tight working conditions has this for me limted only to a car that doesn't have the interior in at all nor e brake lines in nor any front suspension on in the future.

As they say I simply ran out of talent but finally got it done. All in all w/ the frustration it must've taken me 20+ hours as a home hobbyist determined to get everything right and not damage anything and it being my first time.

The good news? No leaks and I'll never have to worry about the aluminum! Good luck. Worth doing. I would NOT route externally - last thing I'd want in an accident is a high pressure fuel line being exposed to contact/damage/spraying fuel all over and going out in a blaze of glory.

edit: I should add I'm also an idiot who happens to be 6'2" and so tight quarters are already a challenge!

[Rocket Car]

Done this a few times on early IB cars.

You need to remove the rear and front tunnel covers.
Jack the car up nice and high and remove the tray under the steering rack.
Disconnect your old lines and tape them to the new lines.
Pull the old lines out and keep pulling until the new lines are through the chassis.
It helps to have someone pull and someone push.
Go careful as you don’t want the 2 lines to pull apart. Also check the lines don’t get hooked up on the metal tangs in the tunnel.

[gdp_samson]

OK ok...I understand by now...there are no shortcuts to be taken (no pun intended: the route via the tunnel is shorter than via the left or right of the car...)

[BoxsterGT]

Guess it's time to post this list of TIPS our fellow Pelicans have come up with.....

The Polyamide Lines are flexible enough to be quite easy to pull through. It will help if you lay them out in the hot sun for a few hours to straighten them out before installing.

I have a M14 Female Coupler that aids in pulling in these Tunnel lines. This is included at N/C and makes for a much easier install, saving a great deal of mechanics time.

You must support the Trans and remove the Trans Mount so you have access to the Rear Hardline connections to the Tunnel Lines.

It is important to use Flare Wrenches (17 & 19) of good quality where necessary during this work.

The Grommets are first. Flat bladed screwdriver, push them into the tunnel and pull them out with a flashlight & long nose pliers.

Inside the Tunnel bend back the metal tabs at each end.

The replacement tunnel line must be rotated to attach to the original using the female coupler at the rear.

You can then pull the old Line out at the front while your assistant (important you have one) is guiding the new in at the rear.

To help in sliding the line through use some electrical tape over the coupler to make a smooth connection and eliminate snags.

To keep out dirt tape over the open fittings w electrical tape, especially with the rear hoses if installing them.

Once ready to connect, put a little “Anti-Sieze” paste on the threads. Only a little, and only on the threads. This will help with future needs.

The rule of thumb for tightness is…snug plus a little. The fitting design is very secure.

Once in place, do not bend back the metal tabs until the hoses are installed and flow tested. This way you have some movement back & forth to get the front hoses in place.

The grommets are next. Use the same screwdriver and some rubbing alcohol or lube oil to push the grommets in place.

Last is to bend back the metal tabs so the lines are secure.

Also check out this Heidi and Franny fuel line replacement video. You might see something that will help.

https://youtu.be/Ov5WgnuHffE


Hope this helps.

Please, to those who have done this before, I am getting a bit forgetful, so any additional TIPS you may add are appreciated.

Len

[mike621]

Echoing others here. I purchased lines from Len (BoxsterGT) and received excellent support.

Approach the job with ample time and patience. I tried to do it on my own and ruined one of my new lines due to forcing/frustration. A little bit of dish soap on my lines helped them slide smoothly, along with some kapton tape on the supplied coupler (helped clear unseen obstacles in the tunnel).

I also did my job with the engine/trans out.

Best of luck. You've got this.

[Rodsrsr]

Plus one for Lens fuel line kit. This was actually one of the easier jobs I've done on the car, however I did have the engine out.

Even so, the lines pulled through fairly easy, getting caught up once, but a little wiggling and twisting worked it through. You shouldn't need soap, because if its stuck, the line is clearly caught on one of the metal tangs in the tunnel. I also wouldn't trust taping the lines together to do this job. Too much of a risk if they separate... Just get Lens kit which comes with new lines, coupler, new grommets, and be done with it.