76 exhaust valve seal replacement, spring compression issue

[Herb_911_76]

Can anybody please give me advise on how to replace a valve seal. I am at the point where I am trying to compress the valve spring enough to remove the keepers. (fed string through spark plug hole to keep valve in place). I am using the the valve spring compression tool I bought here on Pelican, but I just can't compress the spring enough. It seems the tool is "kinked" e.g. the threaded rod and the part that pushes on the valve retaining disc are not lined up. I have cranked to tool to the point where I am afraid something will break and already bent the stud the tool is attached to. I am working on the left bank, center cylinder (Nr. 2 cyl , I think), if that makes a difference.

THANKS!!!

[boyt911sc]

Herb,

Are you using the P7E/P7I tools? Put cylinder #2 @TDC compression stroke and remove the valve keeper/s using the appropriate tool. I use a magnetic pick-up tool to get the valve keepers out after compressing the valve in question.

Tony

[Herb_911_76]

Hi Tony,

thanks for your reply. I am using a P7 tool and am now realizing there are intake and exhaust versions. I am not sure if I can distinguish between the two. Any way to tell the difference?

I put a string through the spark plug hole end turned the crank as far as I could. I guess it should not matter if the cylinder is exactly at TDC, right? With the rocker removed, the valve is just on its own, I am correct?

[john walker's workshop]

They're usually stamped I and E.

[Herb_911_76]

Thanks John, I do have P7E. P7E is stamped right into the side of the arm. I guess that leaves me with a mystery. I even ground off about 1/16 of the bottom of the tool (where it sits on the head) to get a bit more compression. Still while a keepers are a bit loose, they are still not quite ready to come out. I am actually not running out of thread. everything is just at an awkward angle and I am putting sideways pressure on the head, (with the tool) and I am scared of breaking/bending something. I am tightening the tool as far as I can with both hands, but don't want to use an extension.

[boyt911sc]

Herb,

Something is not right. With rockers removed, install the correct P7 tool. Secure the valve tool to the stud and properly line up with the valve you want to work on. Tighten the valve tool until the valve keepers pop loose. Use a magnetic pick-up tool to get the keepers out. Then gradually loosen the compression against the valve springs.

Remove the valve tool and do your inspection. P7I for intake valves (top) and P7E for exhaust valves (bottom). Could you post a picture of your set-up? Thanks.

Tony

[Herb_911_76]

Tony, I had to take care of something else before I could return to the car. Anyways, enclosed is a picture of the setup from which you can see that the tool is not perfectly aligned. The tool fork wants to "kick-out" and pushes against the housing near one of the lower studs. If you look carefully, you can see where the housing is nicked, I guess from a previous attempt. This time, I could not wiggle the keepers as it seems the spring and disc pushed sideways and pushed the keepers against the valve stem. I also tried the one of the lower studs (slightly to the left of the valve) but this seems to line up even worse. I am stumped...

I guess I could try a wedge washer and get a better angle of attack.

[nomore]

Firstly, I don't know anything about this specific tool. What is plain to see
is you have a geometry problem. Take the stud end off and line up the business end square to
the valve stem, then see where your stud end needs to go
to maintain square. Is the tool upside down? Find out where you need
to get to and manipulate the tool to achieve it. Good luck.

[Herb_911_76]

Thanks, Nomore. I guess that was my point, the tool is not aligned in itself when the business end is in line with valve stem and sits squarely on the retainer disc. Of course tried other studs, but there is positively only one that can work. I conclude that the tool is either mislabeled and should be for intake, or it was not made correctly. I modified it - have much better alignment now and was able to compress the spring to what seems max compression. The keepers are lose but still not able to coax them out of their nest. I have done this on other engines - keepers never like me, but I spent way too much time on this one valve already.
Maybe I should have dropped the engine, but that seems disproportionate to replacing valve seals.

[yelcab1]

I have always done this with the engine disassembled. In a press.

[boyt911sc]

Herb,

The direction of the compression is not along the axis of the valve stem. It would have been much better if they align square and straight. I use extra spacers or washers to reduce the misalignment. See picture below.





Tony

[Herb_911_76]

Thanks Tony,

your pics confirm that one has to work on lining everything up. I still think that something was (is) wrong with my compression tool. I have tried a variation of washers, just like in your picture but was never able to get things square. I ended up grinding an angle on the tool then built up with washers. This has given me the best result so far, but I still can't get the keepers out. I'll give it one more whirl today, but I am ready to button things up again, drop the engine and make this a winter project. Thanks for all your help!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Herb_911_76

Thanks Tony,

your pics confirm that one has to work on lining everything up. I still think that something was (is) wrong with my compression tool. I have tried a variation of washers, just like in your picture but was never able to get things square. I ended up grinding an angle on the tool then built up with washers. This has given me the best result so far, but I still can't get the keepers out. I'll give it one more whirl today, but I am ready to button things up again, drop the engine and make this a winter project. Thanks for all your help!

The P7E/I tools work but could be much better if the length of the arm/s is a little longer for better alignment. You will need a contraption or bracket for the mounting stud to position the tool straight and square to the valve stem axis. You could do a better job with the motor mounted in an engine stand. That’s why I have several engine stands and yokes. Makes your task easier and work more enjoyable.

Tony