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Registered
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Correct tubing size for CIS injector lines?
I have searched the forum and elsewhere and have found conflicting info on this question:
What is the correct polyamide tubing size for CIS injector lines? The forum seems to point to "thick wall" tubing and this seems to be the Cohline 6mm OD x 3.15mm ID tubing. I have found another reference that points to 6mm OD x 2mm ID tubing (and this doesn't seem to be available anymore). My original CIS lines are long-since gone. Does anybody have any original lines that they have recently cut apart? |
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Registered
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Belmetric dot com.
https://www.belmetric.com/rubber-insulated-polyamide-c-14_184_1167/rhpoly2x10-rubber-insulated-polyamide-2x10mm-foot-p-17405.html Their part number is: RHPOLY2X10 type this number into their seach box and it should get you there.
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1978 Targa - 1980 3.0; Carrera intake; Megasquirt 2; EDIS ignition; 22/28 mm torsion bars and late Carrera sway bars; Carrera front brakes. Targa top rebuild in 2017. Suspension rebuild in 2019. Needs new paint and interior carpets. |
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Registered
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Got it - thanks!
A local Pelican sent me some photos of some original lines - they are marked at 6mm OD x 2mm ID. Bel Metric seems to be carrying this only in the rubber-insulated version; I have asked them if they have it available un-insulated (for those of us who like to apply our own stainless braiding). I'll let you know what I find out. |
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Slippery Slope Expert
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I have complete sets (used) of both plastic and metal lines if you want to bypass the DIY approach.
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“As new technologies become indistinguishable from magic, and I can no longer tinker, the magic goes away for me.” |
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ROW '78 911 Targa
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I’m the local guy, and I’ve offered him mine (used in good shape) to try to solve his fluctuation problems.
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Dennis Euro 1978 SC Targa, SSI's, Dansk 2/1, PMO ITBs, Electric A/C Need a New Wiring Harness? PM or e-mail me. Search for "harnesses" in the classifieds. |
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Registered
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Thanks, Dennis! Yes, I'm going to try Dennis' lines first to verify it does make a noticeable difference.
My initial thought was to make a new set of SST-braided flexible lines (because they are so cool); hadn't considered the rigid metal lines. Will think about that... |
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PCA Member since 1988
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I don’t recommend the rigid metal lines. They are always in the way when you are working around the engine. Yesterday, for example, i replaced my rear shocks with Koni Sports. The top of the right side shock is behind the engine, against the firewall (yes I know, that’s technicallly in front of the engine). I have the plastic lines, so i unscrewed the bracket that holds the three of them together on the right side. Then I flexed the lines out of the way to get to the nut on top of the shock. That’s a PITA to get at anyway, but if it had the metal lines, I would have had to remove them. Keep the plastic or switch to something else flexible.
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Registered
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That's a good consideration - thanks.
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Registered
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If you go SS braided lines I would be interested to hear your story and know what you ordered, i assume the difficult part are the connections to the injectors and the fuel distributor?
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