Front rotor replace

[donporfi]

There are two types of clips and both are used in Porsches.
On some hoses the fittings are different on each side and use a different clip.
Here some pictures

[thsupernge]

Great pics! Thanks!!!

[Walt Fricke]

THS
I don't have a picture of what I modified, but I did modify your picture showing the approximate location of the cuts I made in the tab which holds the brake line stuff onto the strut. The slot just needs to be the width of the round brake line fitting.

I notched the tab top and bottom, thinking I could use a zip tie, but hadn't thought it through (or maybe needed a deeper notch), so I just zip tied around the strut after I had installed the two springy pieces.

With a little more thought, something a bit better could be devised. Drill two small holes and use safety wire maybe. I was in a hurry.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

I notched the tab top and bottom, thinking I could use a zip tie, but hadn't thought it through (or maybe needed a deeper notch), so I just zip tied around the strut after I had installed the two springy pieces.

With a little more thought, something a bit better could be devised. Drill two small holes and use safety wire maybe. I was in a hurry.

better would have been to (if at all) cut the notch at top.
Eather way you'll have to secure the brake hose to safely sitting in place.
in the racing days they did that and used wire wound araound the strut to fix that.

I myself changed the whole set up exactly due to this annoying detail that you cannot release the hose to move freely when working on the brakes (rotor/caliper)

click=> instead I made a custom brake hose with mounting adapter

[safe]

Originally Posted by thsupernge

Any tricks to the hub reinstall? I know if too tight it can bind and too loose it will wobble with the extra play...

Tighten until you feel a small play with the wheel on.

The old tighten until you lock up the wheel, to make sure its seated properly, then loosen 1/4 turn gets you pretty close.

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Flojo

better would have been to (if at all) cut the notch at top.
Eather way you'll have to secure the brake hose to safely sitting in place.
in the racing days they did that and used wire wound araound the strut to fix that.

I myself changed the whole set up exactly due to this annoying detail that you cannot release the hose to move freely when working on the brakes (rotor/caliper)

click=> instead I made a custom brake hose with mounting adapter

This is a very elegant setup. I need to make sure I note your parts list. Well done and thanks for sharing this.

[sugarwood]

Wait, are you saying the 911 is so convoluted that you need to grind and break brake lines just to change a damn rotor?

[safe]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Wait, are you saying the 911 is so convoluted that you need to grind and break brake lines just to change a damn rotor?

No, you just "flex" the hardline...

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Wait, are you saying the 911 is so convoluted that you need to grind and break brake lines just to change a damn rotor?

Yes, while flexing a hardline is an option, it isn't something that most people feel comfortable with or think is worth the risk. Clearly, changing rotors was not designed as a 10-minute job by the engineers at Porsche as it is with most other cars. Porsche's idiosyncrasies are certainly not a secret around here. What's so rewarding is seeing how those of us have improved upon those designs with clever updates, elegant simplification, and downright artistry.

[safe]

Originally Posted by thsupernge

Yes, while flexing a hardline is an option, it isn't something that most people feel comfortable with or think is worth the risk. Clearly, changing rotors was not designed as a 10-minute job by the engineers at Porsche as it is with most other cars. Porsche's idiosyncrasies are certainly not a secret around here. What's so rewarding is seeing how those of us have improved upon those designs with clever updates, elegant simplification, and downright artistry.

I'm not sure this is an idiosyncrasie. Changing rotors isn't something you do every year or every second or third. cracking the lines and having to blled the brakes is not a big thing, bleeding the breaks should be done far more often than changing rotors.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Wait, are you saying the 911 is so convoluted that you need to grind and break brake lines just to change a damn rotor?

Originally Posted by safe

No, you just "flex" the hardline...

the wear ususally doesn't require regular work on either pads, rotor or bearings any often.

BUT, if you have to, then it' an annoying set up to deal with.
In my opinion THIS for once could have been over-engineered. But no.

The mere fact, that you have to disassemble the seating of a bearing (the outer one) to pull the rotor-hub-unit is "stupid" (excuse my French).
But that was a standard back then (Mercedes, BMW...)

And to be able tu pull the rotor-hub-unit the caliper mus give way.
This is only possible if a) you remove the caliper by separating the brake line (requires bleeding later) or -what 99% do- is b) to bend/flex the hardline some bit.
Once rotor-hub-unit pulled you mount the caliper with a bolt just for time being.

With some common sence both options don't seem to be very optimal (to say the least)

One could say that pulling the hub gives you the possibility to inspect the grease, bearings and the spindle... granted.

but bending/flexing a break line is against my personal understanding of security.

That is why I chose to go for a full-length braided brake hose.

Btw, the idea is not new... back in the days that was a common setup for 911 racing cars

Alternative -if absolutely wanting to keep the soft and hardline- is to use the attaching bracket from elephant racing.
Designed for coil-over struts but you can just use it as is with your Boge or Bilstein, Koni

https://www.elephantracing.com/911/coilover-kits-parts-for-911/coilover-conversion-kits/coilover-brake-line-support-bracket-kit/

[Locker537]

If the wheel assembly has to come off, I bleed the front brake system until it's empty in order to avoid the mess of lines dripping everywhere.

I bleed the brakes between every track event as is.

I like the little bracket idea that Flojo has on his car. This way, it decouples the mount from the strut and with one bolt you can move the assembly around and retain the hard line if you want.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Locker537

If the wheel assembly has to come off, I bleed the front brake system until it's empty in order to avoid the mess of lines dripping everywhere.

I bleed the brakes between every track event as is.

I like the little bracket idea that Flojo has on his car. This way, it decouples the mount from the strut and with one bolt you can move the assembly around and retain the hard line if you want.

Pusha down the besked pedal slightly with something against the seat and you van crack open the lines without any dripping..

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Locker537

If the wheel assembly has to come off, I bleed the front brake system until it's empty in order to avoid the mess of lines dripping everywhere.

I bleed the brakes between every track event as is.

I like the little bracket idea that Flojo has on his car. This way, it decouples the mount from the strut and with one bolt you can move the assembly around and retain the hard line if you want.

Your racing routine could be very helpful here. While most of us don't do that mutch that often, I'm sure you have come up with a good many do's and don'ts that would be very helpful here.

[Walt Fricke]

If you race/track your air cooled 911 much, you will change rotors way way more often than you would on a sensibly driven street car. So for that, making pulling a rotor easier is valuable. Especially if you have to do the change at the track? I'm not talking about endurance racers, who figure out ways to change rotors during a pit stop.

I've bent my hard lines many times. Nary a problem. But it is one more thing you at least wonder about, and fiddle with to do a minimum of bending.

With the "depress the brake pedal to close the brake fluid reservoir intake in the master cylinder" technique, you can, indeed, lose basically no brake fluid. I've just reconnected the brake line (I put home made plugs from spare brake fittings into each open end) and gone back to driving with no discernible softening of the pedal. Bleeding is, of course, the preferred practice.

However, I have had trouble from time to time with loosening fittings. The ones to the calipers typically come apart easily. But the others, which don't come apart as often, sometimes have been seriously stuck. Even having proper brake fitting wrenches sometimes hasn't worked as I hoped. Last time I changed one of the hard lines I had to cut it off short so I could get a socket over the end fitting. It had been on since 1976. So not having to unscrew fittings can have a benefit. To be sure, if I had ever opened the fittings just to apply a little anti-seize, maybe they would always be easy to unscrew.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Locker537

I like the little bracket idea that Flojo has on his car. This way, it decouples the mount from the strut and with one bolt you can move the assembly around ...

exactly. you got it

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by safe

Pusha down the besked pedal slightly with something against the seat and you van crack open the lines without any dripping..

I know the trick.

Unfortunately, I might only get an hour or two to work on the car at a time. For example, replacing the front wheel bearings took me a couple hours spread over a couple nights.

I don't want to leave the brake pedal slightly depressed that whole time. It might be fine, but I don't want to test that. I could reconnect the lines, sure, but with the calipers off it's an opportunity to clean and inspect them.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by thsupernge

Your racing routine could be very helpful here. While most of us don't do that mutch that often, I'm sure you have come up with a good many do's and don'ts that would be very helpful here.

I feel obliged to say I don't race (yet), but spend as much time doing driver education events as I can.

I can write up my checklist.

One don't I'll add now, is don't leave your brake system pressurized by a Motive bleeder and go eat dinner. Even running it dry, 10 PSI is enough to slowly weep brake fluid out of hoses that attach the reservoir to the master cylinder.