Question about welding in fender light boxes

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I just received and mocked up my longhood fender light box extensions but I had a question that I’m hoping those that have done this before can answer.

The question is where to cut and create the butt weld.

Once I have them positioned, do I:

A) cut the current fender on the red line at the top of the new sheet metal and about 1.5” up from the current edge of the fender.

B) cut the light box at the blue line and weld it to the bottom of the existing fender.

I guess the question is what gets cut; the existing fender to accommodate the new light box or the light box to match the fender?

Thanks!!

[ian c2]

Will be easier to “fix” after welding if you cut the fender on the red line , I would think .

[jaycee1977]

Here are some photos of mine. As suggested above, trim the fender at the red line.

Also pay attention to the side of the turn signal box nearest the slam panel. Mine needed some fabrication to close the gap created by trimming the fender.

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[ian c2]

How did everything fit when built up ?
I have the option of putting 930 flares onto 73 fenders , or sell the 73s and put the boxes on the later fenders .

[jaycee1977]

Eventually everything fit great, but it took an awful lot of work to get there. '77 narrow fenders with ST flares and turn signal boxes grafted on. Needed to make a new lip for the bumper rubber to sit on. Metal finish and lead fill the weld seams on the flares and below the headlamp bucket. The fibreglass bumper needed a fair bit of adjusting, re-moulding and shaping to match the new flares. I'm super happy with it but there's not much change out of 100 hours in it.

If I were in your position, I'd rather do the turn signal boxes than the flares. ST flares on mine they were definitely a good amount more work to get correctly aligned, countoured and symmetrical. 930 may be slightly less work as the patterns seem to be more consistent.

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So here’s another probably obvious question:

When figuring out how high to place the light boxes, I presume that one can just set a laser level across the front of the car at the bottom edge of the hood and make sure the bottom of the light boxes lines up with the laser.

Fwiw, I’m using the measurement of 1345mm from back corner to front corner of the hood provided by Stuttgart-Classica in their short to long hood conversion instructions. That allows me to set the hoot extension piece in the proper place.

[jaycee1977]

Sorry for the slow reply.

Yes we used a laser level. Had bumper bar on, rubber installed, hood stops etc.

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