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EPS and XPS have been my friend for about 40 years. We have cut it with a hot knife, sanded it and created a number of mules to form it, much like you did here.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649000912.jpg Well done !!! My favorite way to get what I want out of EPS is using a 5 axis machine owned by a business associate. |
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Many years ago I watched my father and some buddies build a full scale foam sailplane (motor less glider) with 15m wingspan. They were making molds of it for production in carbon fiber. They were a bunch of Swiss, German and Polish guys who could barely communicate verbally but worked together with pure harmony. |
Julian,
This thread really brings me a lot of joy. It's incredible watching someone with such taste and talent follow their heart without constraints. Also, your movie quotes are perfect. I lol'd pretty hard at, "Mark it ten, dude." |
Sunday I couldn't help myself.
I ran to work while my wife and kids napped and grabbed some leftover perforated black vinyl I had from another project and decided to try and make a thing. Some of you like putting big speed holes into your metal... I like putting tiny speed holes into my fabric. Get used to this, there's a lot more comin' http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649097473.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649097473.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649097473.jpg |
Damn, that's very cool!
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Day 23
Going forward I'm going to update the thread on Saturdays when I get home from working on the car. Back to the dash. With my table saw back in action I was able to finish cutting and shaping the MFD filler pieces for above the aluminum trim. The shape of the glove box piece is really complex and the ability to shape the material accurately was a major reason for choosing MDF and it did not disappoint. Anyhow, with all of the pieces complete it was time for a dry fitting. I drilled several holes through each aluminum piece and countersunk them to receive a machine screw. I had to drill into the dash metal as well and happily, my alignment was spot on. The aluminum dash pieces will be bolted to the car and the fiberglass filler panels will be spot adhered to the aluminum. This way they can be pried off if ever needed… The filler pieces above the trim will be adhered to the car just like the factory ones which weren’t ever meant to be removable. I chose to wrap the top filler pieces in black vinyl and after acquiring nearly 20 samples I settled on the least offensive one. None of them, including the so-called Porsche patterns were a perfect match and the biggest issues were the color and sheen. Luckily this is a dark area that will be overshadowed by the other parts. Ha, see what I did there… (work with me guys, I was up at 4:30am again) I mentioned earlier that I eschewed the HVAC bezel because I thought it too busy and well, predictable. While I respect others’ feelings about basket weave, it’s not for me. With respect to the lexicon of design in the 911, it’s an outlier. It’s a pattern that doesn’t exist elsewhere and doesn’t reference anything else. To that end, I don’t find it special enough to break a rule of design. On the early cars with a wood dash, it referenced the wood steering wheel and felt really special; real organic wood in a car. I considered a veneer- I have rosewood, ebony, walnut, and a bunch of others but they didn’t feel right, maybe for a 356 or 901 but not this car. So, sitting in the car I looked elsewhere for cues and I found them above and below me. The headliner and the seats in my car are both perforated, one vinyl and white, the other leather and camel colored. Though the pattern, color and materials are different they point to each other and in that, there’s a harmony of design. After requesting and receiving samples of perforated vinyl from 9 different vendors all claiming to have the correct pattern (only one did, World Upholstery) I was able to get some old headliner from another pelican (thanks 911Group!) and began finishing the glass inserts. So now that I’ve written a thousand words, here are few thousand more…. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg I'm digging the perforated black vinyl accents and given that I have yards of it... well... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg Dry fitting before vinyl and everything looks good http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg Dry fitting after vinyl and everything still looks good! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg From a distance, or an acute angle it looks like plain black vinyl, but up close or an obtuse angle the perforation reveals itself. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg With the HVAC face covered and the bezel, radio, ashtray and upper knobs deleted, the dash is minimal and clean. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg The switches and dials are a nod to the great HiFi systems of the 60s and 70s http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg The simple appearance of the HVAC controls betrays its mind bending complexity...ha! the knobs still need a polish but that can wait until my hands are clean. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg Yes, I have plans for the ignition cover... now, where's that lathe...? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649515327.jpg Up close, the color peeking through the hols reveals itself as gold... in the right light they shimmer a bit. A nod to the brass work that will appear around the car. And there it is. Still just a dry fit so alignment isn’t perfect but it will be. A big change from the mid-year dash I previously had which was a mishmash of mayhem, and a subtle difference from the predicable backdate dash. I think it fits in with the car well, is understated, clean and most importantly, makes sense. Oh, and nobody in the world has it ;) |
Following……very nice clean and unique result on the dash.
I’ll be back to review this thread when I embark on my CR A/C instal into my new project. Cheers, Johan |
Dieter Rams?
Hi, Julian, nice work I like the original take on your dash / knee bolster. When I saw your switches and HVAC sliders, reminded me of this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649635146.jpg |
Tom, as a student of and professional in the arts, the reference to Braun and Rams is a compliment of the highest order!
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Day 24
With the combination of the double holiday weekend (Passover and Easter) and my daughter’s 6th birthday party my time with the car was limited to say the least. A grand total of 2.5 hours was hardly enough time to make major progress. That said, I made the most of it. I laid down another coat of primer and gave it a good old sand up to 400 and removed all of the formidable scratches. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650290045.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650290045.jpg While doing that I decided that my old oil lines which had been painted brown, white and dirt needed some attention if only to see what was under the accumulation. A brass wire wheel on the angle grinder and some 400 sandpaper has them looking vintage new. Sure, they’re not perfect but nothing on this car is and the wear and tear add to their…character… http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650290045.jpg A package arrived this week that I thought was going to be great news but it turns out that it’s just complicated the picture. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650290045.jpg I ordered a gallon of pure white single stage paint from eastwood and a tin of Mixol universal dyes with the intention of color matching the white to my car and blending in the body work. I’m a fine art conservator by day, or at least when I’m not avoiding real work to play with the car which lives at my work studio. Part of my job is color matching so I’m extremely confident that I’d be able to hit the target if not the bullseye. The issue is that I started to assess just how many areas I was going to have to blend and it was, uh, surprising; half the hood, the entire driver’s fender, half the driver’s door, both rockers, the tops of both rear fenders, the rear bumper area, the front of the passenger’s fender and a few more small spots…. It seems almost comical to attempt to blend in 50% of the car to paint that’s not quite great to begin with. So, I think I’m repainting the whole damn thing. On one hand I’m pretty despondent that I didn’t’ decide on this from the get-go and strip the whole exterior and go all-in but what can you do, this was never supposed to be a years-long project- if you recall I gave myself 6-7 months to complete everything, and complete it I will. But I’m a big boy and I’ve made this bed so I’m going to eat this cake. I’m keeping the car white but changing the particular white. I think I’ll mix an off white- a lighter, less yellow version of chiffon white, something a bit warmer than grand prix or pure white but not so French vanilla. Oh boy… |
Excellent.
Can't wait to see how it comes out. |
Great work Julian. I've really enjoyed following along.
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You are an inspiration!
I couldn’t help but to notice the tag line on your Eastwood products say “do the job right”. Maybe subliminal? Best, Rutager |
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I'm literally laying tracks just ahead of the train... I haven't the slightest clue what I'm doing and so I honestly don't know if it's the right way or blasphemy... all I do know is that it's fun and that matters! |
You can keep working on it without getting FOMO - based on the current weather patterns we'll be seeing snow well into May ;)
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Haha, well would you look at that….
My humble documentation of not listening to reason, throwing caution to the wind and laying tracks for a rolling train has made it into the top 12 of the Pelican build contest. (Which is funny because I’m so far from done!!) Obviously humbled to be in the company of so many awesome builds that taught me so much (mostly to not just be happy with what is) this is pretty cool. https://www.pelicanparts.com/support/spring2022sweepstakes.htm?utm_source=forums&utm_me dium=post&utm_campaign=promo&utm_content=DIYcontes t |
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I have to admit to not following this thread as closely as I could, but just sub'd to it so I'll get the updates delivered right to my inbox. I'll look forward to Saturday updates the same way I do Chris's monday entries! Great job, lots of fantastically creative ideas. Thanks for sharing them! I really like your workspace. I feel like spraying paint in there is going to be a problem? I might get flak for this but it's possible to paint single stage urethane with a brush and a roller. And I'm not talking about all those youtubers wasting a colossal amount of time painting cars with non-catalysed rustoleum (don't bother). The VERY broad strokes (pun intended) would be: - put on lots of paint - sand it flat - polish As an art restorer you'll have an easy time building the relationship you need with the paint to make this work. If you're interested I could guide you along. It would be fun to be a part of it. |
I’ll be honest, I’m tempted to vote for others’ builds too- yours for sure!
The plan for paint is to build an enclosure around the car with 4mil plastic- basically a little spray room. The overhead door will be open and exhaust fans will pull the air out while fans on the other side will bring air in. Before I had my exhausted spray “room” that’s what I did and it was pretty effective. Plastic on the floor is key though! I have a pretty nice HVLP system with an inest awata gun and feel that if I can get the gun dialed for paint as opposed to the varnish I normally spray it *should* cut down on the amount of sanding I need to do. The reality is that I’ll probably be doing a lot of sanding one way or another. Seeing Gabe’s work on the Avocado helps build confidence but I’ll be honest; I’m still pretty anxious about it. |
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It's actually convenient to paint a 911 in parts, the biggest one being the roof. You can do a soft edge mask at the drip rail, and paint the cowl and roof as one, each quarter panel/rocker as one, hood, front fenders, bumpers etc. all in batches. I'm a terrible painter, but a great sander. You can adjust your gun such that there's a bit less overspray than there would be otherwise - this comes at the expense of atomisation and the finish will be wavy compared to a "pro" job in a booth. I painted my car twice trying to achieve the surface finish I wanted. The prep for the 2nd round of paint started around page 9 of my build : Quote:
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Best of luck, Julian!
I don't stand a chance this time around. (I'm just glad to still be recognized as a DIY enthusiast.) |
I love it when a plan falls apart. It's just so fascinating to read how we each deal with the inevitable unexpecteds.
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Haha, well I’m glad someone is loving it because I’m incredibly anxious over it. Honestly though, this whole build is really a catalog of how things kind of go sideways and hopefully some graceful recoveries- but I think that’s the norm, especially for DIY. Isn’t that part of the fun (he tells himself over and over hoping that he comes to believe it) I think if I tackle the hood and engine lid first and notch an easy “win” I’ll have some momentum. I haven’t even discussed bumpers yet… Oy vey!! |
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If you're looking for perfection in a paint job doing it in our garages probably isn't the best plan but if you're looking for something you won't be upset to drive anywhere/everywhere, a garage job is a pretty good solution. After doing this a couple times I feel like lighting plays a huge part in the end result. Get as many lights as you can + maybe an LED on the spray gun itself. Seeing what we're doing is half the battle. |
Gabe is right about the light, I make the point in the post below but don't really elaborate on it. I have a 20V cordless LED worklight that I hold in my left hand and spray with my right hand. Pro spray booths have lights down the sides for a reason.
Anyone planning to do any paint work owes it to themselves to get a dekups system, and use 3M masking film: The 9oz cups are big enough to paint all but the biggest panels without having to refill, and save GALLONS of gun cleaner. Since all you are cleaning is the very short wetted part of the spray gun and not a full size cup, it way faster and easier to mix, spray, and clean up. I use metal cooking measuring cups to mix small batches of paint and thinner and activator right to the dekups liner. I generally mix up just enough for the job at hand. The investment for the system isn't that much but you'll save it in time and materials in no time. The masking film is neat. You mask off the outline of the panel you want to spray, drape the masking film over the whole car and cut out the outline of the panel along the middle of the masking tape, then seal up the edge to the tape underneath. It's slick and amazingly fast. And saves on time and tape and headaches. (EDIT!!) - the very bottom picture in the quoted post below shows a good example of masking a single panel - all the masking "paper" is draped over the entire car as one piece and just the rear fender was cut out. Quote:
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Sorry, don't mean to clutter up your thread, but I think that DIY'ing it means you can get BETTER than professional results. If you aren't punching a clock or have a boss or client tapping their foot on the ground behind you, YOU have all the control in the world and can work wonders. It might take longer or require some experimentation but there is no reason to accept results that you feel you have to make excuses for.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1520881204.jpg |
Clutter away, this is the real world data I need!!
I've been using the DeKups system for years with great success. I also have banks of kelvin and intensity adjustable LED panels that I use for my day job. I feel confident in my equipment having a good gun, compressor, lights, cups, etc... it's me that I'm worried about ;) You found the plastic film was better than the paper with tape on the edge? I suppose it's 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other as long as it's a good masking job. |
Of course it's always good to have multiple methods, but the masking film is a miracle. Here's an example that only took a few minutes to do, and that includes masking the ENTIRE vehicle. It also tends to statically attract overspray which is a very nice added benefit.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512751736.jpg |
Day 25
This weekend’s work, like last weekend was abbreviated as I trekked up to the great North of Wisconsin, behind enemy lines in Milwaukee for one of my wife’s work functions at MIAD. She’s an alum and an arts educator and was asked back to jury the senior thesis shows. I went to art school (Purchase College, SUNY) and love being back in creative cauldrons; there’s a great energy in an art school even if the quality of art is… developing. MIAD is really interesting as they’ve done a hard pivot to digital and industrial arts and touring the 3D labs was awesome to see CNC machines, all sorts of additive printing and some really cool 5-axis CNC + 3D printing combination machines running to make stuff. It kind of made my head spin thinking of all the cool stuff that could be made for these old cars that Porsche could have never envisioned. And given the relative low cost and ease of design, the sky is the limits. Don’t think that I didn’t plant some seeds with the lab manager… En route back home I passed this future beauty on I94…. A sign from the heavens…? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg She gonna be pretty! Anyhow, back to the car… Many months ago, I ordered glass bumpers and a whole bunch of ancillary parts from Germany. The bumpers were a bust and forced me to order more bumpers. I still have an RS rear glass bumper for Carrera flares for sale BTW: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1109264-st-parts-rear-fiberglass-backdate-bumper.html Included in that batch was a set of R-style engine lid hinges. I had planned on installing those as my first project as it seemed easy enough, but at the time I was poopy scared of drilling into my car…haha. It’s funny how our perception of what’s difficult changes as we get better, or at least get more comfortable throwing caution to the wind. I installed the R hinges in about 20 mins. I also cut off the middle grille tabs and hammer and dollied them to match the surrounding lip. Much cleaner, methinks. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg Measure once http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg Cut twice. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg A little R style but not a full on throwback The grille mounting holes in the decklid were welded closed and some studs welded to the back that will facilitate mounting of the brass mesh I’ll be using. A few strips of aluminum will sandwich the mesh to hold it in place along with the other studs. I think I’ll polish the aluminum to match the bright trim on the car. Remember, the brass will be patinated a bit to bring down the brightness of the gold. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg Hidden mounting… until the lid is open. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg Gonna have to make that aluminum shiny. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg Not bad... I also got the stereo situation squared away. If you remember from a few posts back I deleted the living hell out of my stereo in favor of a whole bunch of toggle switches but left the speakers. I picked up a small Bluetooth enabled marine amp and tucked it under the passenger seat. It’s a 4 channel with line in, out and a sub out, none of which I have use for in my car at the moment, but it does allow me to stream from my phone to the amp and listen to music without cluttering up the dash. Perfect. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg What else can I hide under the passenger… I’m still waiting on a part to finish up the dash so that’s kind of in a holding pattern for the moment. I hate waiting on stuff that should have arrived when it was supposed to. I received some Y-harness seatbelts for the rear seats and got them almost installed; I got stumped on the mounting bolts for the lap belts; 7/16-20… I guess I’m going to Lowes. I have two kids (8 and 6) and they’re DIYING to ride in the car with me but Mom says not until they’re belted, bolted and fastened into place… not unreasonable. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg That V1-R racing oil is precious cargo, don’t you know! In addition, I made and installed another thing. I mentioned before that I’m digging the perforated black vinyl as an accent material; on the strut brace and shifter rod, and now on the sound insulation pad. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1650890219.jpg I guess I should have wiped it clean before the photo…? Aside from that, I spent some time going around the car sanding down and filling in chips in preparation for preparing to think about getting ready to approach considering attempting to attack the idea of sometime working my way up to… painting this car. I’ll probably paint the hood and decklid separately and first just because they’re smaller, maybe a better place to start and get my process and gun dialed in. Then I’ll have to decide whether I paint the whole car or section it off into panels, that’s a big decision… I think. Lots of great feedback from others who have painted their cars is starting to make me feel a bit more confident. Besides… there’s always sanding…ha! |
Sounds like I need Jonny, Gabe, and Julian to swing by for a week and shoot my jalopy. :D
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Lookin good, love what you did to the deck lid.
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Day 26
One of the unfortunate things about having a family is that they want to spend time with you! This presents a conundrum when you want/need to spend time with your Porsche. Lately my allotted P-Car time is rapidly diminishing yet the work isn’t. This week I didn’t get my normal weekend time at the studio, rather I had to squeeze it in after work on Friday which is less than ideal as I’m kind of spent after working all day and it’s hard to muster the energy. Stop whining, Julian and get to work! A part that I was waiting on showed up! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498689.jpg Right out of the CNC it looked really good! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498689.jpg Nice shape, mimicking the original but a bit smaller http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498689.jpg Looks even better shiny! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498689.jpg Looks ok, but I'm not totally sold. Because I don’t yet have a lathe and Chris didn’t offer his up to me… I guess he is a little busy… I designed and had CNC milled a key bezel… in brass. It arrived with a machine finish which was actually really nice but I though it might look better polished. I tapped the hole and threaded it onto the ignition switch and… not bad, but not perfect- because the new dash sits more proud than the old dash the bezel can't go all the way down to sit flush against the key slot and that bothers me. So I think I'll make a version 2. In preparation for painting this heap I took a lot of stuff out/off the car. I’ve had to remove a lot of stubborn bolts thus far but honestly, getting the window frame bolts out was without a doubt the most trying. It took 2 hours to get one frame out. All of the bolts were completely seized. Copious PB Blaster and heat barely had an effect. It was only through the grace of the gods that they came out. One needed to be cut out… that was an ordeal. Suffice it to say, I got them all out along with all the trim and weather seals, the quarter windows and their associated bits and some other stuff. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498770.jpg Taking stuff off is too easy... putting it back on...? I’ve decided to leave the front and rear glass in. I know, controversial decision (or not, since honestly, who cares) but hear me out; I’m respraying the car white, it’s already white, the glass fits really well and is water tight, and given the nightmares I’ve read about getting the glass in and out…well, I’ll pass on that one for now. I may regret it later but that will be a problem for then. After that, sanding. The whole car was sanded with 400. This was exhausting and really kind of fun. I was able to knock down all the orange peel and runs from the last paint job and the surface of the car is really smooth and even. The hood and engine lid were removed and sanded as well. I thought about removing the doors but that proved to be a non-starter and I’m not buying a $400 hinge puller. The doors can stay put. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498995.jpg You can see the reflection of the overhead light go from shiny to matte And after a bit of clean up I dropped the car off jack stands for the first time in 6 months. I forgot how small and short these cars after it being up 16” for so long! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498835.jpg Tiny little clown car Oh, I also painted the bumpers. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498872.jpg Velvety smooth http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1651498872.jpg Gray is the new black Way back when I was young and naïve, I decided I was going to rattle can the bumpers just to see if I could. This is going to be a daily and I’m aiming to put all the miles on it so the bumpers are going to see hell. I prepped the glass, sanded them, primed them, sanded them, primed them, sanded them and then laid down 5 coats of rattle can grey. Then I wet sanded them, laid down 2 more coats of grey and wet sanded them again. Seems like a lot of work but it went really quick. Grease remover and tack cloth and they were glass smooth and damn near perfect. So, I threw on some clear 2K satin. They looked a bit glossy for a while but as the clear flashed off, the exact finish I was aiming for developed; a velvety, satin deep grey. Next week we paint some car parts! |
Great work. Love your detailed updates.
A quick tip on rusted/frozen nuts and bolts. Forget the penetrating fluid. Go to the grocery store and get some Gulf Wax - the stuff they use for canning. Then take a torch or lighter and heat the offending nut/bolt up. Doesn't have to be red hot just enough to melt wax. Then press the wax block onto the nut/bolt. The heat will wick the melted wax down into the threads and in between the corrosion. The nut/bolt will then twist off very easily. Works like magic every time. |
Excellent work, Julian!
You're welcome to borrow my lathe any time you need. And aside from work, I'll not be far from home until the car runs. |
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Brilliant and so totally obvious that I didn’t even think of it. Hopefully I won’t have to use this approach again… fingers crossed!! |
Day 27
Big congrats to Jonny for his contest win. I think it was always his to lose; that’s an all-time epic build and a rightful winner. Avid followers of this thread, both of you, will remember that I am doing all this work at my studio which I built for fine art conservation; my day job. Turns out, it’s also pretty well suited to car work, particularly painting. I have a ~150sf spray “room” with heavy vinyl curtains and an active exhaust that I use for spraying varnish on paintings. I can’t navigate the car into it but I can move panels there so I decided to give it a go on the hood and engine lid. It’s not ideal for auto paint and overspray, but it does work! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Full send I couldn’t find a white that I loved so I made my own: 3-parts bright white, 1-part Wimbledon or Chiffon white (they’re almost identical.) It’s brighter and less yellow than Chiffon white but softer than pure bright white and less green than the white my car previously was. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg The colors on the camera are much duller than in real life. I was super anxious about this and did a few dry runs to get acquainted with the movements and timing. The funny thing is that I’ve probably sprayed a few hundred gallons of varnish over the past 2 decades and muscle memory took over. Yes, getting familiar with the difference between the paint and varnish took a minute but only just. Tack coat first, let it flash. First wet coat, let it flash. Second wet coat, let it flash. Third wet coat, let it flash. Done. Since this white is going over another single stage white paint, I don’t feel the need to do 5-6 coats. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Painted parts! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg The waviest of all the paint... even still, not that bad. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Getting better... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Better still... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Hey, now we're talking http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Hot damn! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Small parts are nice and easy to paint. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652100089.jpg Well, there had to be one oops. That'll sand and buff out... I hope! The good I did not royally screw this up! The paint flowed really well and laid out nice and smooth as the layers were built up and the solvent continued to evaporate. I was aiming for “acceptable” but I think I may have just eked into “good” territory. One key was using slow hardener. My studio is set at 70 degrees but I felt the extra time really helped allow the paint to level out. The not so good Some dust specs and a few spots of waviness. I managed to avoid orange peel but there are some areas that could be smoother. But that was all to be expected not having a pro setup and well, not being a pro! The next steps I’m pretty happy with how they look. I think a wet sand and buff will get rid of the little dust specs but I think it’s probably best to do it all at once, when the whole car is done. And I may just leave that for next winter as I’m itching to drive this thing! Next week is car prep and the weekend after that is painting time!! Hot damn, I think I can do this. |
You're absolutely crushing it, Julian!
Paint looks great! |
Dude, that looks amazing, always looking forward to your thread update!
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NICE!!!!!! Looks great. Beyond great!!
GP White has a surprising amount of green in it when you look at the formula. Those reflections of the fluorescent lights in the paint bring back great memories. And get my sanding muscles twitching. I very much doubt you need to go off the deep end like me. Your paint job will already be above average as sprayed! You'll find shooting vertical panels and transitions a little tougher - take your time and wait for it to flow out rather than lay it heavier and risk runs. Keep up the great work!! Oh one hint - you were talking about leaving in the front and rear windows. It may be possible to tuck in the outer lip of the windscreen seal into the aperture - if your car is like 90% of them it's already doing this in the upper corners so you can do a great job with masking and removing the window will have zero benefit. Not sure if this will work for the rear but worth a try! |
PS - your studio is awesome! Far bigger than I imagined. And the air handling looks to be about 1000 times better than mince. I have a soft spot for glass block, love it!!
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It's everywhere. |
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