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I've been following this thread from day 1 .. Sorry i haven't posted earlier.. What an awesome source of info and inspiration !!!!!! I have just began stripping an 86 coupe , with complete resto and backdate in mind .. Keep up the great work !!!!!!!!!
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Id pull the lines along with the A/C. I yanked all of mine including all the crap in the smugglers box. The 40 year old lines were so nasty I dont think they would have held any Freon. If you decide to add A/C down the road, a good installer will want new lines rather than trust whats been exposed since the removal. Many are going with the electric A/C unit which I understand doesnt require the lines anyway.
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Day 15
This update is a few days late because the forum was having a fit and then I had to actually do some work at work... Anyhow, let's pretend it's Monday morning... Wisely I sent the kids off to Grandma’s house on Friday night for a sleepover and told my wife I’d “give her the house for the day.” And you know what that means: Julian gets the whole day to play with his Porsche! Like a kid awaiting Christmas morning I was up at 4:30 like a bat out of hell. I got to work and started on what I knew would be a long day. My goal was to get the entire car all sanded and ready for primer. Simple task you say? Well, not being a pro at applying body filler I applied a generous amount as I wanted to be thorough. Haha, the joke’s on me. This stuff is like a tattoo- easy on, not so easy off. I employed the services of a DA and RO sander to remove the bulk of the filler, slowly watching dollars and cents turn into dust; Rage products ain’t cheap. They’re amazing but you definitely pay a premium to make dust. I then switched to sanding boards, sanding sponges and sandpaper starting at 60, then on to 80 and finally 100 grit and got everything smooth, even and exactly how I wanted it. There were two spots that I had to re-fill but they were so small and so thin that I’m not stressing about it. The sanding saga sucked up several hours: 6 to be specific. Ugh. But I did get all of the filler and bumpers smooth as a baby’s… http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058155.jpg Now, we'll see what it actually looks like once I throw some primer and guide coat over it but for now I'm reveling in being done with the brunt of the sanding. Once complete with a few hours until the return of the childrens and responsibility I looked for other projects. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058426.jpg I started painting the trunk but ran out… of course. So, half completed it will have to wait until I get more paint. I started trying to paint the gas tank but as obsessive followers of this forum might have seen, I ran into some issues... the rubberized coating would not play nice with any of the paint I tried (polyurethane, lacquer, enamel...). No matter the paint it was always sticky so it's clear that I'll have to remove the rubberized coating and re-coat it with Wurth and then paint it with 2k satin. I'll probably repaint the trunk with the same 2k so it matches... sigh. I also finally started on the Classic Retrofit AC installation by removing a whole bunch of blower parts and opening up the boxes that have been sitting on my loading dock for about a year. I won't be detailing that process in depth here unless I run into problems or neat tricks or something that I think is novel enough to share as others have done far more extensive threads on the AC install but expect to see some of it. I also started on another project that speaks to the final look of the car. I know, crazy to start thinking about the final look but I needed something fun to do. The R bumper I’m using has the air duct cutouts but they look a bit unfinished to be honest and also, they are gaping holes in front of the oil cooler and AC condenser and I’d rather not have debris make its way to those important pieces of kit. So…. I procured some brass metal mesh and fabricated two screens for the bumper. These are pretty rough right now but rest assured, they'll be nice and finished when they're...well...finished. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058550.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058550.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058550.jpg As compelling as bright gold might be for someone who just got a pager, it’s not the final look. I’ll be applying a patina to the brass to give it a darker gold color and a bit of a weathered look. Somewhere along the likes of the middle piece: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058980.jpg I also made another thing with the brass. Notice a theme here… http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645058637.jpg More to come on that... |
Good to see you progressing on the build. I like the brass touches!
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The brass accents work well.
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We're too old for gold...
"a little bit of brass and a flip phone" |
Day 16
Another early start but this time a limited working session of only three hours. It’s both amazing what you can get done in three hours but also shockingly less that you hoped. Anyhow. Stymied by the rubber coating on the gas tank and the multiple failed attempts at simply painting it I had to come up with another plan. I tried all sorts of paints and the solvents (acetone and xylene) always softened the rubber coating. I tried coating the tank with water-based primer and shellac but the solvents penetrated and still made a mess. So, I resolved to remove the coating. I first started with a heat gun and scraper to no avail, then onto an oscillating tool with a scraping bit which was better but still woefully inadequate. I turned to the tool I kind of knew I was going to have to use anyway; the angle grinder. Equipped with a gnarly wire wheel it was able to take all of the coating off. It wasn’t hard but it wasn’t fast. It took about 2 hours of work to have the top of the tank clean. Given how durable the coating was, I opted to leave it on the bottom of the tank. This ain’t no concourse car and I like the protection it provides. It made a royal mess of stringy rubber everywhere. Luckily it was not sticky and swept right up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645454774.jpg A silly-string like mess everywhere. All that work was worth it as the tank looked glorious once cleaned. I was happy to find no rust at all and all of the metal in perfect 43 year old condition. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645454774.jpg Oh, hi there. Nice to see you're solid! I gave it a quick wipe with acetone and then decided to coat it with Wurth High Build Rubberized Undercoating. I have to say, it looks damn beautiful. The Wurth coating is not as thick and as the original rubber and the texture is finer so it looks more deliberate and less sloppy. It has a really velvety satin finish and looks amazing. I couldn’t be happier. I still have to paint the inside of the fuel filler dish but again, I’m waiting on paint to arrive. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645454883.jpg You sexy thing, you! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645454883.jpg The texture is like leather grain http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645454883.jpg Thinner for sure but it'll still protect and deaden the sound. With a bit of time left I decided to turn my attention back to the trunk. I’m still waiting on the paint I need to arrive so I decided to take advantage of having access to the back of the dash to do some work that won’t be fully realized until next winter. I pulled the cigarette lighter, fog lamp switch and defogger switch, seatbelt/brake light and all the associated wires. I had converted my fog lamp switch to an oil cooler fan manual override switch last winter (See link here) but decided to go another route all together. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645455533.jpg Buh-bye I decoded the various switches and how they operate and extended and labeled all of the wires, made a new loom and fed them into the cockpit through an existing hole below the dash. For the time being they'll just sit bundled under the dash. When I redo the interior, the dash will be redone and the holes covered. The oil cooler fan switch, rear defogger switch, and a few other secret switches will be relocated. Doing this work now means that I won’t have to remove the AC later. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1645455533.jpg Ok gang, sit tight for now, you'll have your turn in the spotlight. And with that I was done- my three hours were up and I had to take the kids to a trampoline park to burn off some energy. This week I hope to sneak a few 30mins here and there to finish painting the trunk and start fabricating something that I've been thinking about for months. Muahahah |
Damn, the tank looks great!
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Day 17 - Part 1
This post is a fable about ambition, the seduction of process and breaking rules. As I mentioned a few posts ago I have begun thinking seriously about the final look and feel of the car. I have a general idea of what I want it to look like but as always, these things are evolving and fluid. One of the major lessons I learned studying studio arts in college and through my work in the arts is that the development of a lexicon that can be repeatedly implemented across mediums and situations leads to a cohesive product that can be understood without explanation. That is; develop a language, put rules for use into place and follow them. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646060988.jpg When well enough was left alone Before this project, when the car had the SCRS front bumper I fabricated some air duct grilles to match the rear engine grille; wherever air was moving there should be a chrome grille. It was a good proof of concept, it looked good and made design sense so I decided to carry that forward with this iteration of the car. Where air flows there will be a patinated brass mesh. This includes the engine grille, the bumper ducts, the fresh air intake and the horn grilles in the fenders; uniformity in design lexicon. While fabricating the horn grills, I decided to see if I could extend the mesh covering across the entire front turn signal. This was a lark of an idea that seemed to make sense in my mind; why break up the surface of the mesh for a lens. I began bending brass rod and shaping it to fit the profile of the front fender. I beveled the corners and using silicone bronze wire, MIG brazed the brass rods together. Much filing and working the joints ensued until I had a shape that fit the opening. I then began bending and shaping the brass mesh to fit the opening. Lots of bending and small cuts on my ungloved hands later, it was so. I tried MIG brazing and silver soldering the mesh but it was too delicate; the MIG burned it and the silver solder discolored it so epoxy was used. Brass is a highly reactive metal and takes epoxy really well, much better than aluminum or steel. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061036.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061036.jpg And with that I had a brass rod and mesh panel that extended across the horn grill opening and the lights. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061036.jpg And then I sat back and came to the conclusion that I had become seduced by and lost in process to the detriment of content. That is, I was so focused on whether or not I could do it, if I had the skill, if it would come together and be different that I ignored the rules of my lexicon. Remember; where air flows there will be mesh. By covering the turn signals with mesh, I had expanded that rule; air flows and lights are now covered in mesh. That in turn would necessitate that the rear lights get meshed and aside from not wanting to make more work for myself (haha, who are we kidding!) I felt that was too much and verged upon begin a “theme” car, think of all the goofy motorcycles Orange County Choppers made and how they looked like toys. It was unnecessary, served no functional purpose and was tiresome as a design aesthetic. The resolution was to consult my lexicon and stick to the rules; the panel must be cut down, regardless of how painful that may be to the fabricator in me. So it was. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061173.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061213.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061248.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061320.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061320.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061320.jpg |
Day 17 – Part 2
In addition to Meshgate I actually did some other stuff. I painted the remainder of the trunk and the front filler panel satin black. I’m glad I did and I like it a lot. I think when it’s all buttoned up it’ll look very nice. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061464.jpg I also spent some time furthering the AC install. This has proved to be the slowest part of the entire build thus far, thank goodness I have the tank out and can sit in the trunk without being hunched over. I also threw on a coating of high build primer to the areas where I had put filler. Initially I had planned on color matching and blending in the new work with the existing paint but am having second thoughts. I might be better off with a respray at a shop which will allow me to change the color slightly-it’ll still be white but I’m thinking chiffon white, medium ivory, or the like to play off the patinated brass and interior. That said, I didn’t want to drive around with exposed filler so some white primer will suffice for now. Hey, driving in primer is the hot new thing, dontcha know? I would have loved to have it painted this year but I think that’s pushing it… we’ll see. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061504.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646061504.jpg It’s really rewarding to see the car in a uniform(ish) color. Seeing all of the work disappear into what it should is reassuring. It feels like a major step forward. |
Can confirm:
1. Driving in primer is very fashionable. 2. The change from multiple colors to one is incredibly satisfying and motivating. 3. You are a madman. That brasswork is incredible. 4. You made the right decision about the meshy lights. I would have given you a hard time about that if you'd chosen to keep it. |
Great to see another update. I love the brass mesh panels. So well thought up and so well executed!
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Day 18
Since the beginning of working on this car I have learned many lessons; some about tenacity, some about expectations, but none is truer than every Porsche maintenance victory will be followed shortly thereafter with a Porsche maintenance defeat. I did spend a minute working on the brass mesh horn grilles... I used some low temperature solder to braze some brass brackets to the back of the brass rod and fitted them to the car. Ultimately, everything behind the mesh will be black so the brackets won't be seen but for now, I'm very happy. This was an absurd amount of work and I could have easily just ordered some from Achtungkraft but I wanted to make my own and I didn't want plastic. The mesh still needs to be tweaked a bit and brazed on but for now I'm happy. Suffice it to say, I ain't doing this again. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694252.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694252.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694252.jpg Brass monkey, I sure feel like one at this point! Next was the Classic Retrofit AC install. A long time ago for a reason that I can’t remember (masochism, perhaps) I once removed the entire blower system and reinstalled it. That experience made going into the AC install a bit less daunting. I got everything removed and everything installed fairly easily in a few hours though those “T” fittings were a bear! Once the blower, ducting, compressor and drier were installed in the trunk I ran head first into the other side of the “that wasn’t that bad” coin. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694494.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694494.jpg I tried for two hours to Tetris the condenser under the left fender to no avail. Regardless of how I rotated it, which way it was placed, all the little swears and prayers I said, it just wouldn’t fit. I’m running an R style fiberglass bumper and I suspect that it eats up the little bit of extra space I need. It just wasn't happening. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646694571.jpg I have made it to level 28 in Tetris, I am car packing hero and the bag-boys at the grocery store run when I show up but this battle couldn't be won. After stopping, cleaning up and leaving my studio I pondered a lot about what the solution would be. The obvious answer is to just run the condenser in the rear left fender. I’m not totally thrilled about that as it puts the condenser very far away from the system and that has to have an effect on efficiency. So, I decided to add a second condenser. I’d rather do it now than later once the car is complete and though Chicago isn’t the South, it does get hot and muggy here and my plan is to drive the snot out of this car, daily is the goal, so I want to be comfortable. Also, see Wife. I wish I would have bought a 2-condenser system from the get-go as it’s only $200 more whereas adding a second condenser after the fact is $500 more! Ugh. So now I just have to wait for the condenser and other parts to arrive which is killing me because I really want this car off jack stands! Lesson learned; just go all in from the get-go and don’t leave anything on the table as it’ll cost you double later. Side note to all those with single top-sliders and CR AC... what are your thoughts on how the system performs? I understand it was designed with the dual sliders in mind and for single sliders there's a compromise. |
Fabulous work on the brass.
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Gentlepeople of P-Land, I come to you with a conundrum, one that has and will repeat it self since time immemorial.
This of course is all about wheels and tires. Ugh. I currently have 16X6 and 16x7 Fuchs with Dunlop Direzza 205/50/r16 but I think I'd like a tire with more sidewall for a more comfortable ride, a less square profile, and to have an earlier car look so I'm considering 205/60/r15 I am leaning toward a set of 15" Group 4 alloy steelies. I've just spent nearly 2 hours reading threads on tires and wheels and I'm no wiser, no less conflicted and only a bit more crosseyed. Here are the facts, ma'am: -1977 body with rolled rear fenders -Lowered to about 24.5" rear fender to floor height. -Street car only. No AX, no track. -3.5 season car: on the road until salt. -Some rallyes, mostly just lots of full send driving. -Stock engine with EFI/ITB conversion, maybe ~190-200 engine HP on a good day? -Lightened car, getting close to 2100 pounds. -Eventually RS spec P&C, or something spicier to replace CIS P&C I am conflicted about staggering the wheels. 6" up front, 7" in the rear, 7" all around, or 6" all around. So my brethren, what say you. What advice or insights may you have. I don't know enough about wheels and tires to make this decision without guidance. Thank you and good day. Julian S Preston Esquire. |
Here is a vid from "Duck and Whale", this guy fitted 15s on his longhood and talls specifically about the tire choice and why. Pretty good lookin car, I think 15s and a chunky tire look great on a longhood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZhwAgcWEKw&list=FLFVHrO6GB1gY3FiY2q3nHGw& index=9&t=340s |
Julian,
I have nothing constructive to add about your tire quandary. Your proposed path is in direct opposition to my wheel/tire proclivities. But I support your decision-making abilities after you've heard all the various opinions and look forward to the outcome. |
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I would consult the oracle known as Duane Wik about tall tires on midyears. His white car is fantastic and he's had many different sets of wheels/tires during his ownership.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/878569-born-75-me-my-new-911s.html |
If Bill Verburg doesn't pop up on his own initiative, seek him out. He's amazing (and amazingly thorough) on these sorts of things.
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Day 19
I skipped last week’s update because I didn’t do anything on the car. After arriving at my studio and no sooner than donning my coveralls I felt a rising discomfort in my left side. It quickly went from idle to redline and I found myself on the floor writhing in pain, sweating as if I were in the 911 stuck in traffic on an August afternoon, nauseous and dizzy AF. I somehow made it to the ER without crashing and after being poked, prodded, stuck and tested a million ways my suspicion was confirmed: a kidney stone. Long story short, it passed and I wound up at home a few hours later feeling mostly fine if a bit sore but the day was a wash. Fast forward to this past Saturday with a lot of pent up energy to make up for lost time and I made it to the studio to commence work, pain free. I spent some time finishing up the AC install and chasing some errant wiring issues that were causing shorts. I pulled all the unused harnesses, freed up 4 fuses and felt damn good about that; add lightness, right…right..ha! While I was focusing on electric, I recycled the old fog light relay for the oil cooler. The Spal relay was huge and unsightly and now it looks Porsche. I also customized a fuse panel diagram I found here for my car. The “S” numbers at the bottom correspond with the factory wiring flow diagram. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg Can you spot which one is new...? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg My flow, my show brought me the doe,That bought me all my fancy things, My crib, my cars, my clothes, my jewels, Look, I done came up and I ain't change I then reinstalled the gas tank, a strut brace because why not (good lord, why does that Renn-Company insist on using SAE hardware… it makes no sense at all!), the washer reservoir and smugglers lid and just like that, the trunk is finished. Given where it started, this is a huge coup. I had to spend a few minutes just looking at it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg If someone stuffed me in here, I wouldn't complain...too much. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg Little things like clean brackets make me happy With a major part of the build complete and feeling good, I turned my focus to the AC condenser. Because I’m using an R style front bumper the condenser just won’t fit into the front fender; no way no how. I tried to fit it in front of the right rear wheel in the fender but it kept blocking the torsion bar hole and that seemed like a bad idea. So, it had to go behind the wheel- in one of the farthest points from the system. I’m not delighted about that and had another condenser on order but cancelled it after almost 2 weeks of radio silence. I figure if one condenser isn’t enough, I’ll add a second. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg Mounted and easily removed... with an angle grinder http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg The Porsche 911 is known the world throughout for its seductive lines... oh wait, these are AC lines, nevermind. I welded some bolts to the tub, threw on some lock nuts to act as stops, washers, then the condenser, more washers and more lock nuts, some plumbing, some burga clips and voila, the condenser was fitted. I ran the new AC lines in the same place that the old factory AC lines were. Obviously, they’re kind of visible if you’re lying on the ground. But that’s fine, why are you lying on the ground, wierdo. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg Damnit, get off the floor! Now, of course there’s a slight catch. And that’s tire clearance. Right now, there’s plenty of room but I’m going to change wheels and tires. The current tires are 24.2” in diameter and the new tires will be 25” thus requiring an extra .4” all around. In the below photo you can see that the extra mounting tab will have to be removed but I should have .5” of clearance from the condenser to tire at full travel. While I wish it was more, I’m not sure that I can gain any more space. The condenser must be fit in a certain orientation and that limits positioning. If when the new tires arrive there is an issue, I’ll have to start doing surgery on both the condenser and the car to make room. Fingers crossed there’s no issue. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1647869982.jpg Oh so close, but maybe a cigar? I threw on some high build primer on the front and rear bumpers in anticipation of a long day of sanding ahead of me next weekend. I’ve also made several inquiries to local tuners to find one that will work on this car and have a few who might be able to do the final dyno tune. Having the car on the ground feels really good even if it may have to go back up again. It feels close. At least closer than it did yesterday, and that’s all I can ask for. QUESTION OF THE DAY: By moving the condenser further back, some 8-10ft away from the compressor compared to 2-3ft as designed, with the additional hose, will I need to add more refrigerant than the prescribed amount. Having read many AC install threads there seems to be some discrepancy about the amount to be added. |
Julian,
IDK about the refrigerant. But I'd advise reaching out to Kelly Moss and Performance Power about tuning your hog. |
Well, per the title of this thread, I couldn’t leave well enough alone.
I got all my work done today and at 4 I started about addressing the AC condenser. After cutting off the mounts I somehow found more space by removing some of the impact bumper stuff that I had left and shoved the condenser rearward. Some aluminum brackets and a new bolt welded to the tub and I was all good to go. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1d981a9de6.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...843409e724.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5e00668885.jpg I feel much better about the positing and now I’m ready for big ass rallye tires [emoji12] 45mins well spent. |
Any thoughts to adding a gravel guard to protect the condenser and fan and wiring?
There was one on the rear condenser that was on my car when I got it. (Long removed) Seemed like it worked as the fins weren’t all beat up. |
Yup, that’s next on the list of things I didn’t think I needed to think of until I realized I did :)
Probably will be thin aluminum painted black. I don’t feel the need for steel and powder coating. |
The one I took off was just some galvanized metal. Did what it needed to.
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Sheets of 20ga galvo can be had at most Home Depots.
They're cheap and malleable. But they don't take paint for $hit. I'd recommend using posterboard to figure out what shape you need and then seek out a local plastics dealer for a sheet of ABS. Malleable with a little heat, but won't rock-chip and reveal a shiny underside when you go a-rallying. |
Day 21
Your normal Monday dispatch is coming a day early because I have to get a lot done this week at work and have to be disciplined about not doing Porsche stuff during the day... Because my wife had to take our Volvo into the shop for regular maintenance, I had to swap my usual 5am work session for an afternoon time slot. Very strange to start working in the light and finish in the dark as I’ve been doing the opposite for months now, but I digress. First off, the quick and easy things. An aluminum stone guard was fabricated for the AC condenser. A few studs were welded to the tub, hit with Wurth rubberized undercoating and the shield installed. The edges were covered in edge covering for prettiness. I debated hammering louvers into it for airflow (I made a buck and some hardwood shaping tools and made a few practice pieces) but ultimately decided there was enough airflow and the louvers wouldn’t provide any benefit other than letting dirt in. I’d still like to put louvers somewhere because they’re incredibly rewarding to make but I don’t know where or why without looking like an also ran. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420326.jpg Making pretty things that will soon be ugly things http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420326.jpg Everybody must get stone-guarded I also decided to install a remote starter switch into the car. I know I probably won’t use it all that often but a.) I need one to set the timing so I was going under the car and up to the starter anyways 2.) if I ever need one again, I won’t have to jack the car up and Cee.) it can’t do any harm. So, I ran some wire from the engine bay to the starter, threw on a ring connector for the big bolt and a piggy back splice for the yellow wire. Then in the engine bay I terminated into a quick connector, the other side of which connects to my remote starter. So, I got that goin’ for me. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420535.jpg This little piggy went to market, this little piggy saves me from jacking the car up... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420535.jpg The remote starter in my hand plugs in and then we're off to the races, but actually not... this is for timing and testing. And now on to the thing that I had been avoiding doing for a few weeks: more sanding. There are any number of ways that I’d rather tire out my arms with repetitive back and forth motion that have a greater payoff than this, but so it goes. The high build primer I sprayed needed to be knocked back so with the assistance of powdered guide coat, adhesive sandpaper on pink insulation blocks, let the sanding begin. I used the pink insulation because I have plenty of it, it can be shaped and rounded for non-rectilinear surfaces, it’s cheap and it works really well; poor man’s Dura Block. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420753.jpg Put it on, then take it off. A few hours later I was surprised at how little additional work was needed; there’s one spot on the passenger fender near the turn signal that’s a bit low and will receive a little filler. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420825.jpg Not bad, if I do say so myself http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648420825.jpg Back to where we were several hours earlier. Now, let’s take some stock. The engine is all built up and the EFI/ITB conversion is complete. It still needs to be restarted and tuned but I’m confident that I can get it running well enough to take it to a dyno for final tuning. I’ve found a few local Megasquirt-expert shops that are excited to have a crack at it so I feel really good about the prospects. Given that I’m ahead of schedule (I gave myself until June to be all done) I have decided to start on some interior projects, namely the dash. There are switches and controls that I need for driving that are just a tangle of wires at the moment and I don’t want to rig temporary switches so I may as well do it up right. Plus, I like the coachbuilding aspect. A full interior overhaul will happen next winter. The bodywork is tantalizingly close to being almost, inching up to a state of being nearly adjacent to a position consistent with understanding itself as approaching…complete. A few spots of filler, some sanding and then I have to make a major decision. Eventually I’ll repaint the car as the current paint is not good but for now, dear brethren, I call on your opinions: 1.) Leave it as-is with primer and filler and sanding marks and say to hell with it this season and deal with it next winter. Cost: free. Pros: done and free. Cons: fugly, real fugly and not in a cool-project-car way. 2.) Throw on a coat of rattle can white so that it at least looks socially acceptable from 20 feet. Cost: $30. Pros: cheap and quick. Cons: moderately less fugly, will have to be sanded off before real paint? 3.) Have the shop that painted the glass bumpers I used to have to mix up some “color matched” 2-part paint and try to blend it with the old and then take stock again. Cost: $500. Pros: a chance of real success and not needing a repaint asap. Cons: costly and a chance that I f*ck it up and need a repaint asap. 4.) Have it professionally painted now and potentially miss out on much of the season, but skip having to reassemble the car and then disassemble it again next winter. Cost: lot$ of money. Pros: I get the paint job I want without delay. Cons: loss of driving time. |
My vote is #3, good chance it looks decent enough to give you plenty of time to paint it properly.
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My vote is #3 also, I'd rather wait until my car is mechanically 100% before I make it pretty and often times that involves a lot of driving, which is exactly what I'm doing now.
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Julian, I'm doing paint last. Every time I've thought the body was in its final form, I find another small tweak I want done. I mean, hell. Look at the state of my front fenders right now. Oy!
Epoxy primer doesn't sand nicely, but is UV stable and water-repellant. Regular primers absorb water. So 1 is a no-go in my opinion. Rattle cans are the devil. Even the nice 2k rattle cans leave a lot to be desired. Trust me on this one. I did the roof with them and had to go back and blast it with the big gun to make it even. Option 3 isn't a terrible idea at all. This is my second choice. Option 4 is a non-starter as I'd not so easily surrender an entire year for something that ought to be planned out well in advance to maximize value and impact while minimizing downtime. I vote for option 5. Buy a HF (or Summit) spray gun and blast it with some single-stage white. It'll better protect the car under it and you can buff/sand/polish/blend it with some effort...Not to mention the minimal outlay of cash and another feather in your cap for things done at home. It's a middle-ground between 1 & 3 without being as icky as 2. |
I figured those were the responses I was going to get, and truth be told, that's what I expected to do from the outset... I just wanted to get the collective hive-mind wisdom.
I have a pretty nice Anest Iwata setup at my work for spraying varnish on paintings- only problem is that I don't think I can maneuver the car into the spray booth... I'll have to build a temporary one where the car lives. Not a problem, I've watched a lot of Dexter and know how to setup a kill room, err, I mean spray room. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648481497.jpg |
Quote:
(lol. Please don't do that.) |
I'm with Chris; DIY all the way. Buy a cheap HVLP and shoot it yourself. If you plan to drive it as hard as I think you do, there's no reason to spend big money on a concours level paint job. Get it 10ft shiny and drive the piss out of it.
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Day 22 - Part 1/3
After the past few weekends of working hard and having little to show for it, this weekend was a big one. With the engine “just” needing tuning and the body “just” needing painting, I decided to turn some attention to the interior. Though I had planned on doing the interior next winter, I’m ahead of schedule and wanted to do some of the interior so that the car would be drivable and presentable. I’ll still focus on the larger interior work next winter. I wanted to delete the ashtray and reshape the knee pad; the mid-year cars have a massive pad and not only is it visually heavy when wrapped in anything other than black, it also makes contact with my knees and that, I don’t like. So. I took it off and created a new slimmer profile. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg Using foam insulation and my table saw I cut down and laminated some pieces. After clamping it was ready to shape. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg I created a template of the new shape out of Masonite. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg The template was pressed or stamped into the leading edge of the foam every 2 inches or so. This creates a depth guide for sanding. This is really key as it’s easy to over sand the foam and without a guide the odds that the shape would be uneven is too high. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg On Carreras this is a pretty easy piece to make; it’s a flat sheet shaped. On the mid-year cars there are end caps, and those need to be fabricated too. More foam and a sharp knife makes quick work of it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg A dry fit just to check everything is in place. Phew, it fits and looks good. On to fiberglass. I used 4oz glass with epoxy laminating resin as it won’t melt the foam. 4oz was the perfect balance between highly flexible and thick enough that one coat was sufficient. 2oz was too thin and would need multiple layers and 6oz was too thick and wouldn’t conform without vacuum bagging. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg Once the glass was dry and trimmed, I hit the shape with a coat of Evercoat rage and gave it a quick sand. Making sure that any defects are corrected at this stage ensures a smooth covering. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg I drilled holes, threaded in some dot and epoxied it in place. Looks flimsy, is ridiculously strong. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919243.jpg All fit into place. Perfect! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919855.jpg |
Day 22 - Part 2
To finish off the knee pad I needed to wrap it. I contemplated leather but then the entire interior would need to be leather and while I may do that next winter, for now I settled on vinyl. I procured cork vinyl from Germany and using Super 77 got the form wrapped. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919936.jpg Last winter when I got the car I took advantage of the ashtray space and added a USB port and voltmeter: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1077276-ashtray-modification-usb-volt-meter-install.html With it now deleted I had to find a place for powah! I added a USB 3.0 Quick Charge port on the bottom of the knee pad. I still need to trim the vinyl so that it sits flush but the fit is spot on and it’s completely invisible. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919936.jpg One of the issues with backdating the dash, as thoroughly documented by alexandervdr in his DIY Singer-Style Dash Build here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1083901-diy-singer-style-dash-build.html , is the issue of the glovebox. Either you have a gap under the trim which looks terrible, you delete the glovebox which in a street car with minuscule storage is silly, or you modify the hinge mechanism to compensate. alexandervdr did an amazing job modifying the hinge and I thought about it but it looked like So. Much. Work. So, I came up with another solution; modify the trim piece. With a right angle on the back of the trim panel it must have a gap or the glovebox won’t open. But if you eliminate that hard-right angle and add a radius, well, not only do you get a flush fit on the front of the trim panel, but the ability to open the glovebox too. Mark it ten, Dude. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919936.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919936.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648919936.jpg |
Day 22 – Part 3
With the glovebox solved I started working on the rest of the dash. My trim piece came from ST-Parts but is probably the same as the Rennline one, or the one you can design in Sketchup and send to an online CNC shop for a fraction of the cost… It fits but like everything, will need some modification. Fine. The dash pad is thick vinyl-wrapped foam and with it removed there’s a void that needs to be filled. I thought about casting the originals and molding them in urethane foam rubber but for a single piece that’s just ridiculous. MDF to the rescue. MDF is a garbage building product in every respect save one; it shapes beautifully. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg I began making the filler pieces for above the trim and got one done. There are three different bevel cuts on that piece and some hand shaping. During the making of the other two (one for the glovebox and the other on the left dash) I tripped my SawStop table saw, so that put an end to that, and it’s going to cost me a few hundred. Grr. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg Bummed, I pivoted to the actual trim piece. My trim piece came with a radio cutout and a mid-year/Carrera HVAC cutout. I’m deleting the radio face and using a hidden Bluetooth receiver so that cutout needed to be filled. I’m also using a longhood HVAC control I bought on e-bay for a song and dance so that trim cutout is too large as well. The solution was to use a 2mm sheet of fiberglass inset into the trim piece. It will cover the cutouts and has the added bonus of making the trim piece more flush. The obvious answer to a question that nobody asked was to use the chrome bezel on the HVAC control, make the dash look like everyone else’s, and call it a day. If you’ve read this far, you’ll know that won’t cut it. I wanted a cleaner, bezel-free HVAC control. I also decided that because I have a Classic Retrofit AC system, the labels on the HVAC control are meaningless as the CR system changes their operation. So, let’s delete it all together. I marked the location of the slider controls on the fiberglass and then paused. I was going to use my tablesaw and rise-cut the slots with the blade but it’s out of commission until a new blade and cartridge arrive. I thought about using a router but that seemed unreliable. And then I remembered that I have a mill! Julian, you damn genius! No more than 10 mind later I had three perfectly parallel 3mm slots in the fiberglass. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg A very nervous test fit revealed that my measuring and milling was damn accurate and that the HVAC sliders work perfectly while being completely integrated into the dash. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg I whipped up the left dash piece too. This one was pretty easy and just required making holes in the fiberglass. I have some plans for that area bit it might require the purchase of a lathe, or the bribing of someone with a lathe to fabricate a part for me. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg Awesome. Let’s do more awesomeness. Seeing that the radio face is gone I had some space. I also had the need for some controls; the AC on/off switch, the CR blower fan speed switch (I’m not using the slider to control the fan so that I have full control over the vents), the rear defogger switch, the oil cooler fan override switch, the intermittent wiper switch from the dash and another secret switch (passenger ejector seat? oil slick, smoke screen? Muahahaha) I used that blank space formerly occupied by the radio for said switches. Drill press meet fiberglass. Fiberglass, meet switches. I opted to align the switches with the center slider. Because I couldn’t move the position of the sliders, it makes visual sense to align the switches with the sliders rather than center them in the trim piece and create a visual discord. And just like that my vision is coming together quite well. Yes, the fiberglass will be covered so we’ll have a continuous panel with no bezels, no labels, just controls; sliders, knobs and toggle switches. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg I still have to finish the MDF filler pieces once my table saw is back in operation next weekend, secure the aluminum trim piece to the tub, wrap the fiberglass sheet and do all the electrical wiring but this was a huge day of work, turning an idea into a proof of concept and then reality. I can’t wait to finish it up! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648920393.jpg |
Holy moly. More pls.
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Very cool progress! Well done!! I like where this is going with all the custom fab touches throughout the car.
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