fuse box wiring question

[jwakil]

I am trying to wire in some external standard fuses because some of my fuse connection points have become corroded and useless. I disconnected the second fuse from the left which is the AC and put in a separate fuse and now my AC doesn't work. Does anyone know if the two positions circled in green are tied together within the fuse box? The picture is not my circuit, but just to show the positions I'm talking about.

[timmy2]

The add on 3 position fuse panels usually have 2 positions ganged together.
Undo yours and look behind.
Might be time to replace the 40 yr old panel with a new style ATO fuse one.
Pelican has a couple of choices of new ones.

[jwakil]

Originally Posted by timmy2

The add on 3 position fuse panels usually have 2 positions ganged together.
Undo yours and look behind.
Might be time to replace the 40 yr old panel with a new style ATO fuse one.
Pelican has a couple of choices of new ones.

Yes it turns out 2-3 are ganged together, and the ac worked after I connected them. It has been my dream to redo that whole fuse box, but the thought of working with those short stubby wires sends shivers down my spine. If there was about 2 inches of slack to allow doing one at a time and easily make connections I woudn't hesistat. But as is you have to undo everything and try not to get any wires crossed. Plus the replacement should allow easy joining of multiple wires.

[timmy2]

Buy a cheap label maker from wherever and label each wire.
Start at the headlight as fuse 1 add a T or a B for top or bottom and label them all as you remove them one at a time. Nothing that hasn’t been done by many here before.
They will all go back in their original locations with just a bit of effort and maybe a hemostat to help out.
The new ATO panels available from Pelican are internally ganged already.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Buy a cheap label maker from wherever and label each wire.
Start at the headlight as fuse 1 add a T or a B for top or bottom and label them all as you remove them one at a time. Nothing that hasn’t been done by many here before.
They will all go back in their original locations with just a bit of effort and maybe a hemostat to help out.
The new ATO panels available from Pelican are internally ganged already.

One way is a label maker but I have these to label wires: https://www.amazon.com/3M-ScotchCode-Pre-Printed-Wire-Marker/dp/B001AO36GA/ref=asc_df_B001AO36GA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312184333180&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16118298352202639004&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-316724732374&psc=1

[timmy2]

Hi Harry,
I have used those numbers/letters that are peel and stick for the last 40 years as an electrician.
Hate them, label makers are much more customizable. It is what we use now in the trade. Flat tape or tubes.
Plus, the peel and stick ones will leave a sticky residue on every wire after they have been on there for a while, and can be a pain to remove.
The p-touch labels when folded together come off easily with a quick stroke of an exacto blade just near the wire and a slight pull.