915 shift rod question !

[Geneman]

Hello peeps., tell me , is the nub that sticks out of the front end of the shift tube ( that connects to the shift coupler) supposed to move at all? I thought it was one solid shaft going back. See diagram and arrow. thats were the play is.

I just swapped in a new CAE shifter unit. and it seems that end of the shift tube is moving ( its one a few mms but definitly real), independently of the main shift rod going back.

I do not want to take it all out if thats normal.

(BTW: can this shift rod be removed from the car without dropping motor/transaxle , or without cutting the big hole in the tunnel?). Or is it possible to disconnect the rear coupler, jack up the trans a bit then slide the rod out the back?)

Thank you. Frank

[florio]

Hi, the pin you show with the red arrow is solid with the rest of the shift tube and should not move. As for getting the tube out without dropping the engine or hacking the body, I do not think that it is possible although many have tried. There are a couple of threads that explain various attempts, the most probable being dropping the engine a little to wiggle it sideways and make room for sliding the tube out.
good luck!

[Geneman]

Thank you Florio. I just read that this pin is tack welded to the main rod and sometimes comes loose and needs rewelding. also. apparently someone was able to ooch the rod to the back rthru the emergency brake hole. I will try! cheers frank

[AlKidd]

The pin shown is removable via an allen key like is used on the shift coupler. If not you wouldnt be able to remove the bearing bush. Make sure yours isnt loose.

Originally Posted by Geneman

Thank you Florio. I just read that this pin is tack welded to the main rod and sometimes comes loose and needs rewelding. also. apparently someone was able to ooch the rod to the back rthru the emergency brake hole. I will try! cheers frank

[Walt Fricke]

You'd be better off tack welding the pin part to the tube with everything in place (except the shift tower) than trying to get the whole tube out without pulling the transmission (which means the engine, too unless you've done some serious tub modifications). Doesn't take much. You can get the top, and by rotating with the coupler at the rear disconnected, as many sides as you want.

If you go easy, and maybe use a die grinder, you should be able to keep the weld down to where you can slide the bearing bush over it when you next want to replace it, but if it is good now, you can push it well to the rear, and worry about a new one much later.

I wonder if Porsche glued this pin into the tube? That's how it attached the machined ball socket lower piece to the tubular shift lever itself, and over time those bonds sometimes break loose.

[john walker's workshop]

Drill through the tube onto the pin and plug weld it. Easy to do in situ, just cover stuff that you don't want possible weld spatter on. Disconnect from the coupler so you can roll it over and do the other side.

[Geneman]

Thanks brother John and Walt. just good to know that it actually is two pieces in there. that few mm movement at the tube translates into big movement at top of gearshift in this CAE tower setup.
I will just pull the motor and trans..( for about the 50th time...) and weld it /grind it on the bench...
good tip on being sure the plastic bearing slides over it ...

btw some outfit in UK makes a " straight solid "RACE" shift tube"...they want something like 384 British lbs for it... without a rear cooler! WTF. holy crap.

[MBEngineering]

HI Geneman

with a little work and twisting, the rod will come out of the car with the engine and box in, you will need to remove the gearbox crossmember, jack up the box as far as it will go, take off the box joint and pull/twist the rod out through the hole, remembering which way it was in the last bit to start it back in the car on re-fit

I have changed 2-3 this way with the same prob' of the 2 spot-welds braking off under the gearlever

[john walker's workshop]

Don't know why you would pull the engine and trans when it can be welded in place and the high spot from the plug weld can simply be ground flush with a 2" disc. But carry on.

[MBEngineering]

HI John

the only reason I tend to remove them is, the risk if fire with the plastic fuel lines, as I there is only me in the shop, if you do have some heat protection to cover things and a 2nd helper with the nessesary equipment, take care welding and grinding in the car should work

the reason I change/remove them is to fit a new one at the customers request

[john walker's workshop]

I can see the fire issue if one were to use a torch, heaven forbid, but a quick mig weld isn't going to do much more than cast a few sparks.

[Geneman]

Thanks guys. simply put brother John: if you knew anything of my welding skills..... you would know why!!